By Mountain boy
I recently installed the factory Kicker sub woofer to my Bose system, it is a big improvement but something is weird, I have to set the bass at -12 on the tone and the mid and treble at +7. I looked at the sound using pink noise and a real time analyzer. Those numbers got me closest to a flat response curve. I have done some checking on line and as soon as you install any kind of sub especially aftermarket the ANR starts fighting you. Amazon has a cable that you connect to the amp to shutdown ANR, just got to pull the console to find the amp and see if it will work with the 19. System. I understand what ANR does studied wave cancelation in high school physics. I know enough to know I don’t want it. Anyone adding a sub to Bose might want to check into this.
Hello, I’m new to this so please bare with me.
I have a 2018 Silverado LT With DL8 Mirrors And I just purchased the DL3 Mirrors Online.
I connected the driver side mirror to the factory switch harness and the only function I’m getting from it is the mirror adjustment settings. The problem I’m having is that the turn signal and puddle lights are not working.
im hoping to get some advice, I’m not worried about making it look nice I just really would like to get it to work.
I came to think that if I were to tap into the power wire in the mirror harness for the mirror turn signal, and possibly run a wire from there to To the headlight turn signal wire harness that would get it to work?
Then maybe run a wire from puddle light but run that to something that turns on when the doors are unlocked? The problem is I’m worried that it might be pushing too much power to the mirror and blow something out?
if that can work I’m not sure witch wires in the mirror harness to tap into? I can’t find anything online showing what wires do what?
By Jacob Broadbent
I just bought 2017 sierra with the 7 inch touchscreen that advertisted as compatible with apple Carplay and Android auto. For whatever reason myself, the dealer, and the GM infotainment support can't figure out why it isn't working with apple. We can get the radio to work with Android Auto and connects right away as it should so I think that confirms that the USB port is not faulty and is correctly transferring data. I am using an Iphone 8 IOS ver 12.4 with the factory cable in good condition(no fraying of the cable) and have confirmed that the phone cable combination works in my girlfriends 2017 Chevy Cruze. We have also tried it with different cable combinations and different IPhones.
Occasionally when an Iphone is plugged into it a message will appear on the radio saying "Playback Source is not available" and I have attached a picture of the message.
Just a quick rundown of things I have tried to help with troubleshooting:
Made sure that the Apple Carplay is on in the settings of the radio. Double checked that "press home for Siri is enabled" Double checked that the screen time settings weren't preventing carplay from working forgot phone in bluetooth settings and re-paired it. factory reset of radio tried different Iphones (IPhone 6, IPhone 8, IPhone XR, IPhone XS) tried different cables (and confirmed they all worked in the 2017 Chevy Cruze) Made sure the phones worked with Apple Carplay in the 2017 Cruze. tried all USB ports in the truck.
Appreciate all the help
Just wanted to check in again and let you all know about another exciting service we're happy to be offering... The Denali Cluster Upgrade!
Many of you have requested this upgrade and I'm happy to report we have successfully completed the mod.
If you're interested in this, you'll need to know a few things.
Acquire a new or used GMC Denali cluster. This can be a Sierra or a Yukon cluster. (Please note: If you buy your cluster 2nd hand, DO NOT plug it into your vehicle.)
Diesel/Gas: The cluster will need to match some aspects of your current vehicle. For example, if you have a gas spec vehicle you'll need to find a cluster that has an RPM gauge that goes to 6000rpm. If you have a diesel spec vehicle (2500, 3500) you'll need to find a cluster that has an RPM gauge that goes to 5000rpm. Both shown below.
MPH/KPH: We can do BOTH USA and Metric market clusters. If you live in the USA, you'll want to get a cluster that has a speedometer that goes up to 140. If you live in a metric country, you'll want a cluster that goes to 200. Both options shown below.
COLOR: If you have a GMC and you want to keep your RED color theme, you'll want to find a 2016 GMC Denali cluster. If you have a Silverado, have done a blue conversion, or have upgraded your HMI to the newer blue theme and you're looking for a BLUE gauge theme, you'll want a 2017-2018 Denali cluster.
Android Auto/Carplay: For all of you Android Auto users wanting the use of your volume and track selection flippers back, this fixes it!!! once installed you'll once again have access to your flippers. This also allows for the long press of the voice button on the steering wheel to activate Google Assistant as well as Siri for Apple Carplay.
Year Matching: There has been a lot of talk that all modules that are installed into the vehicle need to be of the same year. After extensive testing we have found this to be mainly false. As long as the modules are of the same generation you should be A-OK for the install. That means if you have a 2.0 HMI vehicle (2014-2015) you can use a 2014-2015 Denali cluster. If you have a vehicle with a 2.5 HMI (Carplay Enabled, 2016-2018) you can use any 2016-2018 cluster so long as it matches your vehicle specs as mentioned above. And if you have a 2014-2015 and would like to upgrade to a blue themed cluster while adding Android Auto / Carplay, we are more than happy to facilitate the upgrade all at once.
Please reach out to me if you have any questions or are interested in getting this mod done to your own vehicle. Thanks for watching and enjoy the demo.
I just finished adding an amp and sub to my 2019 Sierra double cab and wanted to share some info to help others.
Power--Connected to the positive post. I backed off the clamp bolt just far enough to insert a connector (used a standard ring connector and clipped the top, making it into a C).
There is a rubber grommet on the firewall directly behind the battery that had an unused accessory nipple. I snipped off the end and 4 gauge cable slid through it perfectly.
Remote on--fuse box is on the passenger side end of the dash. I used a test light to find a fuse slot that powers up with ignition. Run the wire down to the power cable you just pulled through the firewall. There is a ton of room to run these down the passenger side and there is no need to remove the center column plastic as the cables will run underneath with no issue. If you need more room to work, there are are a couple caps that cover the stock wire loom that can be removed. Two bolts close to the door seal and two more just under the carpet. I used a wire coat hanger, fed it from the rear seat to the front, and taped the two wires to it so i could pull them straight back. It worked great.
Line out convertor---I found a wiring pdf doc for my 2019 which included the amp and speaker plugs with color codes. Open the wire loom that you just ran your power lines next to and look for the stock subwoofer speaker wires. The colors are, positive + was blue/grey (almost looked pinkish grey) and the negative - was green/black. These two wires will be twisted together like other speaker wires. I was thinking about using the front door speakers if I did not find the sub wires but this hookup sounds nice so I plan to stick with it. This only supplies the convertor with 1 input so I used a y plug on the live rca out of the convertor so my amp received both coaxial feeds to the input .
Ground-- I removed a rear seat bolt, ground off the paint underneath and tightened it back down on my ground connector.
Extras---I removed the stock jack and placed it in my bed storage box so I could use the brackets fixed bolts to attach my accessory board. I then attached my capacitor and power block to the secured board.
I am sure there are things I could have done better so feel free to respond with better ways or what worked for you. I am by far no expert but have been doing my own backyard installs for almost 30 years and they have never failed me. I just wanted to give people some tips in case they think the job is way too hard because it was actually quite easy and sounds fantastic (well, as good as stock audio can sound with some extra thump).
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