Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Bought a bag of 50 of these 3/4" LED marker lights to do my running boards.   Had 20 left over.   They cost about $0.60 each (bag of 50 of them is $29.99 on Amazon).

 

Wanted to put some Raptor style grille lights on our new Z71.   

 

Easy install.   removed the plastic trim cover that goes over the radiator/hood latch area, just plastic push pins hold it in place.  Then drilled two 1/4" or so holes down from the top of the grille / shroud area down into the top of the grille for a zip tie.   placed a 1/4" X 1/2" strip of 3M VHB double sided tape on the LED light and then used the zip tie in combination with the double sided tape to secure the lights to the top of the grille opening as you see in the pics.    

 

Ran all 3 grounds together and grounded them on the hood latch bolt.  Ran the +12 feed to the trailer fuse (#15 I think) in the fuse box. 

 

I like them a bit more spread out than a lot of the other ones you see installed.    Very happy with the results. 

 

 

grille07.jpggrille08.jpg

grille02.jpgGrille01.jpg

grille03.jpggrille04.jpg

grille05.jpggrille06.jpg

Edited by TwoBallScrewBall
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, TwoBallScrewBall said:

Bought a bag of 50 of these 3/4" LED marker lights to do my running boards.   Had 20 left over.   They cost about $0.60 each (bag of 50 of them is $29.99 on Amazon).

 

Wanted to put some Raptor style grille lights on our new Z71.   

 

Easy install.   removed the plastic trim cover that goes over the radiator/hood latch area, just plastic push pins hold it in place.  Then drilled two 1/4" or so holes down from the top of the grille / shroud area down into the top of the grille for a zip tie.   placed a 1/4" X 1/2" strip of 3M VHB double sided tape on the LED light and then used the zip tie in combination with the double sided tape to secure the lights to the top of the grille opening as you see in the pics.    

 

Ran all 3 grounds together and grounded them on the hood latch bolt.  Ran the +12 feed to the trailer fuse (#15 I think) in the fuse box. 

 

I like them a bit more spread out than a lot of the other ones you see installed.    Very happy with the results. 

 

 

grille07.jpggrille08.jpg

grille02.jpgGrille01.jpg

grille03.jpggrille04.jpg

grille05.jpggrille06.jpg

Look's good - job well done.  LIGHTS on for safety . P.S. I have a Black truck with Led Light strips running down the side , above running broads

Edited by slj2008
Posted

How old are you...lol, this is something I would expect my Dad or Grandpa to do to their trucks.

Posted (edited)

Hey, hey, hey! I resemble that remark. 

 

PeePaw says “No butterscotch drops for you.”

 

Hater, there are only 28 side marker bulbs.

Edited by Darksky
Posted

You are dangerously close to making that truck resemble something Pedro would drive to his landscaping job.

 

Oh hell, who am I kidding? You are pretty much there..........

 

Shakey

Posted

Don't you know that you should be unique and have a black truck that's all blacked out and not have anything flashy on it?

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
  • 2 years later...
Posted
On 2/17/2019 at 5:11 PM, TwoBallScrewBall said:

Bought a bag of 50 of these 3/4" LED marker lights to do my running boards.   Had 20 left over.   They cost about $0.60 each (bag of 50 of them is $29.99 on Amazon).

 

Wanted to put some Raptor style grille lights on our new Z71.   

 

Easy install.   removed the plastic trim cover that goes over the radiator/hood latch area, just plastic push pins hold it in place.  Then drilled two 1/4" or so holes down from the top of the grille / shroud area down into the top of the grille for a zip tie.   placed a 1/4" X 1/2" strip of 3M VHB double sided tape on the LED light and then used the zip tie in combination with the double sided tape to secure the lights to the top of the grille opening as you see in the pics.    

 

Ran all 3 grounds together and grounded them on the hood latch bolt.  Ran the +12 feed to the trailer fuse (#15 I think) in the fuse box. 

 

I like them a bit more spread out than a lot of the other ones you see installed.    Very happy with the results. 

 

 

grille07.jpggrille08.jpg

grille02.jpgGrille01.jpg

grille03.jpggrille04.jpg

grille05.jpggrille06.jpg

This #15 fuse power will have the lights on at all time ? When truck is running day and night  thanks 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...