Jump to content

Is installing a TRAIL BOSS levelling kit on LTZ

goose hunter
 Share

Recommended Posts

Chris walker Enthusiast

Chris walker

Posted
Posted
Just now, Sierra Dan said:

You mean this:

 

See the source image
 

YEP! I think this ^^^ is on its way. I think the ZR2 has shown that it can be done. I also realize they have to have some tricks up their sleeves when the model starts getting long in the tooth. Im thinking we have 3-4 years before we see this^^^.  Cant wait!

  • Like 1
  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

goose hunter
goose hunter

Picked up my 2019 LTZ  with trail boss levelling kit today.....very very very satisfied!!! will share more later.6.2L and had dealer install duratracs.                             GH

Sierra Dan
Sierra Dan

You mean this:    

Sierra Dan
Sierra Dan

Goose Hunter,  the Trail Boss kit is actually a 2" lift kit and not a "level". Some here have added a 1.5" leveling key to their Trail Bosses to bring the front end more level to the rear, as the

Posted Images

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted
Options for Success Chris:
 
Buy a Sierra AT4 to get your 6.2   :gmc:
 
Buy a Silverado LTZ w/6.2 and Max Tow, then order a Trail Boss 2" Lift Kit ($1295)…... clean out the garage/stock the beer fridge and get to wrenching :thumbs:


Kit won’t work with NHT

1672dbe8717e787b48afbca2ac20aece.jpg


Ryan B.
SILVER SLED Senior Enthusiast

SILVER SLED

Posted
Posted

So will the kit bolt on or not bolt on to an LTZ with trailer/max (with the 3.42 gears) towing package, or is it just not recommended? 

JR09country Enthusiast

JR09country

Posted
Posted
So will the kit bolt on or not bolt on to an LTZ with trailer/max (with the 3.42 gears) towing package, or is it just not recommended? 
I don't see why it wouldn't bolt on. They are probably more concerned with the shock tuning and getting rid of the 2" rear high rake that's there down to a ~1" . All of your suspension components are the same in the rear except for the added block and shocks .

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

OnTheReel Senior Enthusiast

OnTheReel

Posted
Posted

Supposedly the rear springs are “heavier duty” but I’m not sure what that entails. Beyond that it probably comes down to liability and diminished towing capacity making the original NHT ratings unsafe or inaccurate after install.

 

I would say for sure the warranty on the parts would be gone. Installing them on an NHT would give GM an easy “out” on that. 

f8l vnm Senior Enthusiast

f8l vnm

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, Chris walker said:

YEP! I think this ^^^ is on its way. I think the ZR2 has shown that it can be done. I also realize they have to have some tricks up their sleeves when the model starts getting long in the tooth. Im thinking we have 3-4 years before we see this^^^.  Cant wait!

Anyone know what wheels those are ?

smrr1 Senior Enthusiast

smrr1

Posted
Posted

Speaking about the at4 you can get the 6.2 in a loaded lifted truck but no 342. 

f8l vnm Senior Enthusiast

f8l vnm

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, smrr1 said:

Speaking about the at4 you can get the 6.2 in a loaded lifted truck but no 342. 

But at least it’s a 10 speed which 3:23 is equivalent to 8 speed and 3:73 

Ben Berkenpas Enthusiast

Ben Berkenpas

Posted
Posted (edited)

Rough country has a kit that lifts the front 3" and 1.5" in the back. Only cost $700 and looks pretty simple to install. Way cheaper than the gm kit and actually levels the truck. 

 

 

Edited by Ben Berkenpas
  • Like 2
goose hunter Enthusiast

goose hunter

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, Ben Berkenpas said:

Rough country has a kit that lifts the front 3" and 1.5" in the back. Only cost $700 and looks pretty simple to install. Way cheaper than the gm kit and actually levels the truck. 

 

 

Ben , my dealer isn't crazy about using this kit....says top ball joint don't last...just sayin!     GH

Ben Berkenpas Enthusiast

Ben Berkenpas

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, goose hunter said:

Ben , my dealer isn't crazy about using this kit....says top ball joint don't last...just sayin!     GH

That may be. I honestly know nothing about this lift. I do know that Rough Country lifts are usually on the cheaper end both in price and quality. But it may be an option for someone looking for a cosmetic look that doesn't really use it off road. 

f8l vnm Senior Enthusiast

f8l vnm

Posted
Posted

Yeah agreed. Nothing like being able to take your truck back to dealer for any and all issues. If you can swing more money do the gm kit which comes with eveytning 

obfirefighter22 Enthusiast

obfirefighter22

Posted
Posted

My LTZ with 6.2 is on order and will get the 2 inch lift at dealer, along with all the black parts. 

 

The truck will still need a leveling kit? Because even trail boss trucks have a rack.

Sierra Dan Senior Enthusiast

Sierra Dan

Posted
Posted

If it were me and my truck I would go aftermarket.

Less expensive and not as many components to install.

Then again the benefit of the GM kit would be that it should be covered by a warranty depending on installation.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,238 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Sugar Bears 2015 GMC Terrain SLE-2 2.4 AWD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...