Jump to content

Considering purchasing a high mileage 2014 Sierra Denali 6.2. Should I?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have always had better luck with something that gets driven compared to a used vehicle that just sat.

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted
On 4/20/2019 at 2:57 AM, HeySkippyDog said:

Let me give you a taste of a 2014 AC repair cost.

 

-Compressor: burnt up

-Refrigerant: gone

 

Needs new compressor. Cost: $1600

 

There is a damn good reason that the 2016+ K2 trucks have an entirely different AC. It actually works.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J727A using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

I had my ac go out on me on my ‘14, I paid 50% of the cost, which ended up being about $330. So it was $660 at the dealer.

Posted

It’s not the point of how much it costs for a certain repair, it’s the fact that something with over 150K Miles will have a great deal of wear on “EVERYTHING” and not something someone on a budget should ever look into purchasing, asking for a lot of added headaches only to say you’ve got a 6.2, run away from it!

 

Btw, dealerships don’t care if it breaks down, it’s just an added return on what they paid for it on trade.

 

 

Sent from above

 

Posted
I had my ac go out on me on my ‘14, I paid 50% of the cost, which ended up being about $330. So it was $660 at the dealer.


That’s not the only thing that’ll need replacing with the astronomical amount of wear and tear done to it, it’s a ticking time bomb.


Sent from above
Posted

I’ve seen many GM full sized SUVs go over 250 to 300K miles up to pre cylinder deactivation models. Family members and people who had worked for me had very good luck with them. I’m I reading they gotten less reliable?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

With proper maintenance anything is possible, with extra added higher quality care it’s much more likely to achieve extended life out of any manufacturers drivetrain. Those days in the past are in the past, adapting with newer model drivetrains especially everything being run by computers is what’s here and going to get much more technical.


Sent from above

Posted

Proper maintenance meant nothing when it came to the expenses on my 2014.

The AC kept on breaking. I live in Central Florida. AC is not optional unless you want to show up everywhere sweating.

The AC repairs that were frequent made the truck worth trading in. The AC repairs were not cheap unless you're Warren Buffett or Donald Trump.

Had much better luck with a '17.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J727A using Tapatalk

Posted

Would they have redesigned the HVAC for 2016 if the 2014 was so great? No.

They refused to retrofit, so I traded.

Don't fool yourself. You do not want a 2014.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J727A using Tapatalk

Posted
On 4/19/2019 at 10:03 PM, Z06_Mike said:

Hey guys,

 

I'm considering purchasing a 2014 Denali 6.2 with 157K miles. I'm on a budget of about 25K MAX but I really want a 2014+ Sierra SLT or above. I stumbled upon a 2014 Denali it has 157K miles with the 6.2L it's white/cocoa dune. The truck looks very clean and well taken care of the majority of miles must be highway. I talked the seller down to $22K and it seems to be the cheapest Denali I can find. I've found some SLTs for about the same price. 


Should there be much of a concern or do these trucks hold up well with high miles? I'm guessing the AFM lifters would be a concern. 

 

FWIW I had a 2010 Sierra 5.3 and the lifters took a dump at 150Kish I fixed it then sold the truck due to rust issues and picked up a 2009 Denali I loved that truck but had to sell it when I moved. It also had high miles and had ZERO issues so I didn't know how the next gen holds up. I would consider another GMT900 but I like the look of the newer model so much more.

 

Thanks!  

Is there any "must haves?" What size cab? What color? 4x4 or 4x2? These would all come into play...you can practically buy a brand new single cab base model for that much...

Posted

Just did a quick cars.com search and found 37 SLT's 2014+ with less than 100k miles for less than $25k...

Posted
40 minutes ago, NCPGMC said:

Just did a quick cars.com search and found 37 SLT's 2014+ with less than 100k miles for less than $25k...

And how many with a 6.2?

Posted
5 minutes ago, truckguy82 said:

And how many with a 6.2?

Not sure, didn't look...The OP did not say a 6.2 was mandatory, just that he was looking at one...OP just say a '14+ SLT or better trim...See my previous post about wanting specific "must haves"

Posted

Higher mileage vehicles like this are difficult to value, at least for me. Because there are so many unknowns. That is the mileage at which stuff begins to nickel ans dime you IMO. As many guys have already said, it's best to probably budget for some maintenance items right off the bat as you may start needing suspensions parts like ball joints, etc.

 

Do the 14's have magneride or was that part of the '16 refresh? If so, make sure to check if the magneride shocks are leaking as they are stupid expensive to replace. Something absurd like 800 dollars a shock at the dealer. There is an aftermarket simulator kit you can buy though to eliminate the magneride shocks and retrofit normal ones.

 

I think if you could get it for $22k, it would be a good buy.

Posted

Keep in mind, newer vehicles with very high miles are usually in much better condition then older vehicles with high mileage.

 

because with so many miles in such a short time its most likely highway miles, which you could verify with engine hour counter.

 

When you’re on the highway you’re generally in your highest gear, which means nearly everything before the driveshaft is taking far less abuse per mile. There are just less engine revolutions per mile. Less time for electronics to be functioning. Less heat cycles, less time in the drivers seat, less time on the brakes, less time for nearly everything.

 

It’s very possible, almost likely, that if a truck spent most of it’s life at highway speeds, it could have less usage on it than one with half the mileage but spent driving through a suburban or city environment.

 

I just recommend looking at the hour counter on a high mileage truck and figure out it’s average speed.

 

Also don’t be scared of ‘14’s. Hardly the maintenance nightmare people make it out to be. I’ve had no more issues with my truck than anybody else. It’s been extremely reliable.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 3,800 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...