Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Anyone else running just a touch over 210? My 2015 5.3 never did. Running a 2019 5.3 DFM. Seems to hover around 210-215 and that's without a heavy load or anything. Not too worried about it, just curious to see if everyone else has the same.

Posted

Trail boss here 5.3 my coolant temp is a hair past 210

Posted

Towed 5k lbs up a decent hill at 60mph today. Temp didn't budge. Ill keep an eye on it but its probably fine. 

Posted

Yeah, RST Z71 with 5.3L DFM here. Runs just a tick past the 210 line all the time, as others have reported. 

 

I don’t even remember now what my 2007 5.3L ran at now. 

Posted

My 2015 always showed 210 F. I removed the 207 thermostat and installed a 180 F. Still reads 210 F. :rolleyes:

  • Like 1
Posted

My LTZ 5.3 DFM is so low. may be around 180 and lower most of the time. In the past 6800 miles I barely saw 200. I'm not towing any load. 

Posted

My 6.2 never seems to go above 200 no matter what. This was pulling a small trailer today, about 70 degrees outside. Not sure if they have a different T-Stat or what but I found this thread interesting. As I recall my 2016 would have the needle straight up at 210 no matter what.

EA21489F-365B-4D87-A31E-81A08A1038B3.jpeg

Posted
4 minutes ago, OnTheReel said:

My 6.2 never seems to go above 200 no matter what. This was pulling a small trailer today, about 70 degrees outside. Not sure if they have a different T-Stat or what but I found this thread interesting. As I recall my 2016 would have the needle straight up at 210 no matter what.

EA21489F-365B-4D87-A31E-81A08A1038B3.jpeg

I would bet money the analog gauges are not a "true" gauge,  whereas the digital gauges show the actual temperature. 

 

I've seen analog's in the past that basically have a "low", "at operating temp" and "high" movement of the needle with nothing really in between.  When the needle is actually put on the cluster if it's not perfectly lined up it could be left or right of the 210 a smidge.  Mine reads a hair over all the time once it's warmed up.

 

Just a thought- pure speculation based on past experience.  :)

Posted
1 hour ago, Limelight said:

I would bet money the analog gauges are not a "true" gauge,  whereas the digital gauges show the actual temperature. 

 

I've seen analog's in the past that basically have a "low", "at operating temp" and "high" movement of the needle with nothing really in between.  When the needle is actually put on the cluster if it's not perfectly lined up it could be left or right of the 210 a smidge.  Mine reads a hair over all the time once it's warmed up.

 

Just a thought- pure speculation based on past experience.  :)

You may be right, but I hope not. I remember my W-Body Cutlass Supreme having a setup like that, but for oil pressure. Analog gauges, but only an oil pressure switch. Gauge just sat right in the middle if it had pressure.

 

Just makes you wonder why even bother with the gauge then if an idiot light would do just the same...

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, OnTheReel said:

My 6.2 never seems to go above 200 no matter what. This was pulling a small trailer today, about 70 degrees outside. Not sure if they have a different T-Stat or what but I found this thread interesting. As I recall my 2016 would have the needle straight up at 210 no matter what.

EA21489F-365B-4D87-A31E-81A08A1038B3.jpeg

12.5mpg in the previous 25mi? Ouch! Lowest I’ve been in my 5.3L is 14.6. ?

 

also, buckle up man! ??

Edited by econometrics
Posted
2 minutes ago, econometrics said:

12.5mpg in the previous 25mi? Ouch! Lowest I’ve been in my 5.3L is 14.6. ?

 

also, buckle up man! ??

Yeah, but I was towing my rolling brick of a utility trailer so it’s not that bad. :D

 

Doing mostly city driving unloaded during the week, I’m lucky to be over 15. She’s thirsty around town.

Posted
6 minutes ago, OnTheReel said:

Doing mostly city driving unloaded during the week, I’m lucky to be over 15. She’s thirsty around town.

#WorthIt ???

  • Like 1
Posted

Bwaahahahahah ...  mine fluctuates all the time.  I've had 2 updates applied at the dealer and still, this is what I see.

20181020_072137.jpg

20181020_131920.jpg

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, steve841 said:

Bwaahahahahah ...  mine fluctuates all the time.  I've had 2 updates applied at the dealer and still, this is what I see.

20181020_072137.jpg

20181020_131920.jpg

My cluster is exactly like yours (digital gages). But your lowest temp is my highest. Usually, mine is between 185 (2 lines before 210) and 197.5 (one line before 210). In the past 6800 miles, I saw more than 210, only one time which came down immediately. 

By the way, why your RPM is 2000 on 70 MPH with cruise control? It should be around 1500 if you have 5.3L with 8 speed, and below that with 6.2L and 10 speed. Unless you were driving up hill. As I see, you were driving 9 miles in high RMP. Depends on the weather, this should be normal, specially if you are carrying some loads or towing. 

Edited by AMPRG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,253 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...