Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Any pics of the calipers?? For 2k they better be pretty beefy. I kinda want them but want to hear from anybody that already has a set on the truck. 

Posted

What calipers?? Don't know what you're referring too for 2K :dunno:.  Was this supposed to be a reply to another thread?

Posted

Think he’s referring to the performance brake kit GM sells. Or tries to sell. Haven’t seen anyone with them.

 

https://www.shopchevyparts.com/performance/2019-silverado-1500-performance-front-brake-system-piston-red/23505023-p-92301746.html

 

They look awesome but the extra 2 grand in my bank looks better. My truck isn’t ever going to be an autocross contender.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, OnTheReel said:

Think he’s referring to the performance brake kit GM sells. Or tries to sell. Haven’t seen anyone with them.

 

https://www.shopchevyparts.com/performance/2019-silverado-1500-performance-front-brake-system-piston-red/23505023-p-92301746.html

 

They look awesome but the extra 2 grand in my bank looks better. My truck isn’t ever going to be an autocross contender.

Yes this kit! They do look pretty good! I think I’m gonna order some! To me stopping power is comes right after horse power hahah. Befor the i6 delay was announced the other day I build a RST FULLY loaded with everything I could want and with the brake kit it was like 56kish. So with the i6 option it be just about 59k.  I have a Cobalt SS with brembo brakes  from the factory having them match on my truck would be pretty sweet to Lol.

Edited by Inline6DirtyMaxRST
Posted

Yeah, they sell red rear calipers to match but they are the same size/ type. Probably better off just painting the backs and save the $500...

  • Like 1
Posted

DO IT. I have always wondered the same thing but my check book isn't big enough to find out. 

Posted

I'm satisfied with the new larger 4 piston calipers and the ZF IBC (integrated brake controller). Calipers are much larger this year and stops on a dime and are a big improvement over my '16. Can't see 2k on upgraded brakes but if you see the need for them go for it. Upgraded pads and rotors would be an option if they're available yet. Also, MGP makes nice caliper covers for the '19. Calipercovers.com. Any color and engraving for Silverado/Sierra. There's a youtube vid on these.

Screenshot_2019-05-25-08-44-56-1.png

Screenshot_2019-05-25-08-44-36-1.png

Screenshot_2019-05-25-08-44-07-1.png

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted

The truck does stop great compared to my 16, which wasn't bad at all either

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Front brakes are probably over 80%  your stoping power so I don’t reallly care about the rears.! My main thing is I love upgrading cars making them fast  and look good ect. This will be my first truck that I’m gonna have for awhile and bigger tires on 20’s just seems like bigger brakes would help and look better.  I’m gonna trubobswap the i6 when the warranty is up anyways. I’m just being compliant with the warranty and still upgraded my rig haha. My heart broke the other day when the i6 got delayed??

  • Like 1
Posted

There is a dude on youtube that installed this kit on a 17 or 18.  I'll find the video and link it here.

 

Really made a difference for him.  I'd bet a lot of money that the rotors and calipers are the exact same for the 2019 kit.

Posted

 You don't have a '19 yet so have you seen these monster 4 piston calipers for '19?? I have 22's and like said stop on a dime. Hey it's your money so spent it how you see fit but you are under estimating the stopping power on these new '19 brakes. I can't justify 2k but maybe you can. And no, the '18 isn't the same and not even close. The brake system for '19 is totally different. '19 now incorporates the ZF IBC system. 

Posted (edited)
45 minutes ago, steveved said:
Found it:  
 

 


Yea that’s the brembo/GMC kit...

But At $2200-2500, being a 6 pot caliper, and a heavy ass 1 piece rotor, it’s a overpriced.

I’m waiting for my rep at Brembo to confirm fitment on their new 8 piston kit GT kit will fit.

List is $5500 but you can easily wheel and deal and prob get it for 4800. Brembo has a strict price protection policy that makes all distributers list the same price.

This kit is designed to work with the factory abs system, brake pump... everything..

The extra 2k is worth the gigantic 2 piece floating rotor, with a anodized aluminum hat.... the cast iron 1 piece rotor will rust and look like shit after a year.

dc94596d7f95bad55999ae2094e7f88d.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Edited by PabloK
  • Like 1
Posted
Front brakes are probably over 80%  your stoping power so I don’t reallly care about the rears.! My main thing is I love upgrading cars making them fast  and look good ect. This will be my first truck that I’m gonna have for awhile and bigger tires on 20’s just seems like bigger brakes would help and look better.  I’m gonna trubobswap the i6 when the warranty is up anyways. I’m just being compliant with the warranty and still upgraded my rig haha. My heart broke the other day when the i6 got delayed[emoji23][emoji23]


You are correct

But it drives me crazy to see unmatched rear brakes. Brembo rear brake for the GMC 2019 will be a 4 pot system.

Combined with a 8 piston front... the brakes will be so damn efficient.

I run them on every vehicle I own... I typically get 75k before I need to replace pads. The 2 piece Rotors should last 100k. I have 120k on one set and still have tons of life left

No doubt it’s crazy money, 8500-10k but if your looking for the “ultimate” system, this is the route to go.

Not to mention your shaving 40% of the rotational mass compared to the original system... handling, acceleration, braking, everything is improved on that front.

Only negative is your wallet will start smoking and you’ll end up working until your 80 years old.


8bab15575bc81eb3ac12004ae53cb0e9.jpg295d0f0263c49ccab9cfaa6299c304bc.jpg

Should be epic


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 413 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...