Jump to content

Bilstein 6112 installed!

99bluebird
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

99bluebird
99bluebird

Installed the 2" lift kit bilstein 6112 shocks and springs on my otherwise factory 2015 gmc sierra crew cab 6.2 SLT.   Kit number was 47-273702 and included both front shocks, springs, mounting c

kennerz
kennerz

cool color... kinda rare.

Pivot
Pivot

Just returned from the shop that installed my 6112's up front and 5100's in rear.   I have the Z60 suspension and liked it. Truck is basically new and has 4k miles on it.    I was

Posted Images

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted (edited)

Something I just noticed from the Bilstein site is that the 5160s only have a 90 day warranty. I guess that's why they weren't concerned about the finish or adding dust boots. 

 

Edit: I just got off of the phone with Bilstein and they said the bodies of the 5160s are triple coated and should be fine where I live even though I'm close to the ocean. He said if I lived in the rust belt it might not be a bad idea to add some extra and it certainly wouldn't hurt.

 

limited90daywarranty_02.pdf

Edited by Red_5
Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted

Something happened when my 6112s were being assembled with aftermarket shock top mounts and the top mount broke. Unfortunately, this ruined my plan for not having to go to a shop to have the parts swapped. This does give me another day or two to decide which position to have the 6112s set.

 

I'm new to modifying trucks and honestly haven't spent much time underneath mine. In the case of using the 6112s to raise/level the front, it only raises the body of the truck but not the differential height right? Only bigger tires will raise the differential height? Thanks.

Sierra Dan Senior Enthusiast

Sierra Dan

Posted
Posted

Red 5,

 

By raising the shock ring position higher it will push the A-Arms down, thus essentially lifting the front end (body, bumpers, plastic air dam, diff etc) off the ground.

Add in a larger diameter tire and you will achieve even more lift off the ground.

If memory serves me correct I went from about 9 1/4" from ground to bottom of air dam to about 10.5" with my 5100s on the 3rd clip.

All trucks and suspension packages are slightly different so your results may vary.

 

 

  • Like 1
99bluebird Enthusiast

99bluebird

Posted
  • Author
Posted

In mine the top mount made it perfectly level, 38-38.5” at all corners.  The third position would give 1.3 instead of 1.8” of lift so probably a tiny rake but largely unnoticeable.   I personally dont think anything under 2” is a problem for these ifs trucks.   My arm angles certainly look reasonable.   More than 2 you should probably do a diff drop.   And if ball joints wear out in 50k miles it makes a great excuse to get some upgraded upper a arms!

Im going to stuff some 34s in here, will let you know how it goes.

  • Like 1
Pivot Enthusiast

Pivot

Posted
Posted

Just returned from the shop that installed my 6112's up front and 5100's in rear.

 

I have the Z60 suspension and liked it. Truck is basically new and has 4k miles on it. 

 

I was originally going to set at max setting (4) and install a 2" block in the back to achieve a level. I talked to the installer awhile before dropping it off and he asked what I was hoping to achieve. Basically told him this is part of a process to allow larger wheels and also not sacrifice ride quality, hopefully improve. He immediately asked how big of tire and I told him 275/60/20. I'm on stock 20" rims and 275/55/20 tires. He rec'd setting the front adjustables to third setting and leave the stock blocks in back. Told me I would look level and should have a rake of right around 1". After changing my mind multiple times, I went with the 3rd setting and eliminated swapping out the stock rear blocks. 

 

First impression. I pulled up and saw my truck out front. It pretty much looked the same. Stock wheels and rims still on.  Only since I've been measuring and focused on wheels, tires, could I tell that there was a little more open space in the front wheel well. Most people would never notice. Truck appeared level.

 

I paid and jumped in the truck to head home. Immediately noticed my hood was a little higher, but nothing dramatic. I had about a 15 mile ride home and I took all the back roads back and they are in poor condition. I don't know if it was in my head, but they seemed a little smoother. I could feel the potholes, but only once and the suspension quickly recovered. I was moving at a good clip to test the changes and came around a corner where a car was turning and had to hit the brakes pretty hard. Immediately noticed brake drive was gone. I know the suspension is firmer, but only say that because I could hear a slight rattle near glove box, passenger seat. I never drive without tunes playing (had them off) and that might be some of it. Also had all the oem coils and struts in back, parts on passenger floor and my locking lug nut piece was still on a lanyard in the cup holder. I'll clean things up later, but suspect the passenger seat rattle might be due to stiffer ride, possibly loose stuff clanking. Time will tell. 

 

Bottom line, I noticed two big changes. #1 The truck stays level in turns at speed. #2 Brake dive dramatically decreased. I felt like I could drive faster on rough roads and the truck was tracking straight after bumps. 

 

Now to the measurements. 

 

I dropped the Truck off and measured everything before the swap. 

 

Front center point on wheel well was 36 3/4 stock, rear was 39 1/4 = 2 1/2" of rake

 

Bilstein 6112 with Bilstein 5100 in rear

 

Front center point on wheel well 38 1/4, rear unchanged at 39 1/4 = 1" rake. 

 

So, I gained a hair over what I expected. It could settle a bit, we'll see. Bottom line right after install I gained 1 1/2" up front on 3rd setting.

 

I'm happy with the ride, but coming off new shocks and coils , it wasn't huge. It certainly didn't get rougher or unpleasant. 

 

Next, I'll be looking hard at rims and tires to complete this project. Then, what I want the most is a tune. The owner and another mechanic both said they love my exhaust and wanted to know what model I had. I laughed and said it's a Borla Atak, really barks at start up when cold. They agreed and said they all really liked it except one guy. I wasn't sure what was so funny till they whispered and pointed to another mechanic. I looked and he had a Tshirt on with coffee stains up front. I guess he was standing next to it early am sipping coffee and it really startled him when it started and he split hot joe all over his white t-shirt. 

 

I can also confirm that the Bilstein 6112's at the third setting will show 2 rings exposed below the spring cup. 

 

Pretty happy so far and really looking forward to putting bigger tires and new rims on next. I'll have to drive it on the highway next to see what changed. 

 

IMG_0780.jpeg

  • Like 2
Darmichar Enthusiast

Darmichar

Posted
Posted
48 minutes ago, Pivot said:

I could feel the potholes, but only once and the suspension quickly recovered.

This was the game changer for me when I installed 5100's on my 2014.  It was a huge improvement over the OEM's.  

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted

Pivot, do you have any pics of your truck from the side you can share?

 

I have 37k miles on my '15 Sierra and my passenger seat rattles too. Still on stock NHT suspension but I have E load range KO2s usually inflated to around 50 psi.

 

Thanks for the write up!

SWOYER Enthusiast

SWOYER

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the write up, waiting for mine to come in. I also just picked up hellwig bars F/R and new Falken Wildpeak AT3's. 

 

I'd be a little cautious about ordering from BattleBorn/MRT. After a bad experience, I went with 4WP and I got an actual reply to my email (wow so difficult!) and they let me know actual ship dates. The peace of mind, customer service and warranty are worth the extra little bit of $$$. 

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted
48 minutes ago, SWOYER said:

Thanks for the write up, waiting for mine to come in. I also just picked up hellwig bars F/R and new Falken Wildpeak AT3's. 

 

I'd be a little cautious about ordering from BattleBorn/MRT. After a bad experience, I went with 4WP and I got an actual reply to my email (wow so difficult!) and they let me know actual ship dates. The peace of mind, customer service and warranty are worth the extra little bit of $$$. 

Overall my experience with Battleborn was positive, I’d buy from them again based on that.

 

The main reason I went with Battleborn in the first place is that they’re a sponsor of this forum so I wanted to support those who support the forum. What do you mean about the warranty? Why would there be problem buying from Battleborn?

Pivot Enthusiast

Pivot

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Red_5 said:

Pivot, do you have any pics of your truck from the side you can share?

 

I have 37k miles on my '15 Sierra and my passenger seat rattles too. Still on stock NHT suspension but I have E load range KO2s usually inflated to around 50 psi.

 

Thanks for the write up!

Sure. Tried to park in same place. Lighting was different. Just got done washing it

Pivot Enthusiast

Pivot

Posted
Posted

Bilstein 6112's front. 3rd setting.  Bilstein 5100 rear. Rear block untouched. It might be hard to tell by eye. Measurements were made in garage on level concrete. 38 1/4 front 39 1/4 stock rear. Rake reduced from 2 1/2 to 1. I took the pictures at the same location. Top picture is stock. Pictures that follow are Bilsteins installed. 

 

 

IMG_0765.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,987
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RSTRICK
    Newest Member
    RSTRICK
    Joined

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 1 Anonymous, 593 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • calgator73
      Lesson relearned on basic diagnostics...

      By calgator73 · Posted

      Coming back from towing a car to my daughter in Nashville truck started making a screaming noise from underneath.  Pulled over placed in park and sure enough whining noise from underneath.  Dropped at the dealer fearing new tranny or another front pump/cover replacement.  Service writer said it sounded like the tranny too...  Well $300, new idler and a belt all is good.  Pop the hood and give a listen. lol  Now I'm telling dealers I'm no longer interested in a new truck.
    • newdude
      OIL CONSUMPTION

      By newdude · Posted

      HD uses the 6.6 gas.   Oil consumption while heavy working is considered normal.  1 quart per 100 gallons of fuel is the normal rate above 8600lbs GVWR.  If more than that, it is considered excessive.   They will have to perform an oil consumption test using the guidelines in TSB 03-06-01-023J.     Information on Engine Oil Consumption Guidelines All engines require oil to lubricate and protect the load bearing and internal moving parts from wear including cylinder walls, pistons, and piston rings. When a piston moves down its cylinder, a thin film of oil is left on the cylinder wall. During the combustion process, part of this oil layer is consumed. As a result, varying rates of oil consumption are accepted as normal in all engines. Oil Consumption Oil usage has a direct relationship with the amount of fuel used. The harder an engine works, the more fuel and oil it will use. Therefore, oil usage as a factor of fuel usage is a more accurate indicator of acceptable oil consumption levels than vehicle mileage for vehicles at or above 8600 GVW. The accepted rate of oil consumption for gasoline engines in vehicles at or above 8600 GVW is 1 liter (1 qt) within 400 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used. This rate only applies to vehicles under warranty, maintained in accordance with the appropriate maintenance schedule, driven at legal speeds and within design intent of the vehicle. Many factors can affect an owner's concern with oil consumption. Driving habits and vehicle maintenance vary from owner to owner. Thoroughly evaluate each case before deciding whether the vehicle in question has abnormal engine oil consumption. Gasket and External Leaks Inspect the oil pans, engine covers, and the engine oil cooler for leakage. Inspect for oil leakage into the engine coolant. Improper Reading of the Oil Level Indicator (Dipstick) The vehicle must be parked on a level surface to obtain accurate oil level readings. Verify that the dipstick tube is fully seated in the block. When checking the oil level, make sure the dipstick is wiped clean before taking an oil level reading and fully depress the dipstick until the shoulder bottoms out on the dipstick tube. The dipstick should be the proper part number for the engine/vehicle that is being checked. Not Waiting Long Enough After Running Engine to Check Oil Level The vehicle should be allowed to sit for at least 15 minutes, after the engine has been shut off, before taking an oil level reading to assure the oil has had enough time to drain back into the crankcase. In order to ensure accurate results, the temperature of the oil should be close to the same temperature as the last time the oil level was checked. Improper Oil Fill After an Oil Change Following an oil change, verify that the proper amount and type of oil was put in the engine and that the oil level on the dipstick is not above the full mark or below the add marks. Refer to the Owner's Manual or Service Manual for information on recommended oil quantity, viscosity, and quality. High Speed or High RPM Driving Continuous driving at high speeds/high RPMs may increase oil consumption. Because this may not always be an everyday occurrence, it is hard to determine exactly how much the oil economy will be affected. Towing or Heavy Usage Towing a trailer or hauling additional weight will increase oil consumption. Large frontal area trailers will further increase the work required from the engine, especially at highway speeds, and thus increases the rate of oil consumption. PTO Operation Operation of a PTO will increase fuel and oil usage, as the PTO driven accessory uses engine power to operate. Crankcase Ventilation System Verify that the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is operating properly. Blockages, restrictions, or damage to the PCV system can result in increased oil use. Oil Dilution from Condensation On vehicles that are usually driven short distances, less than 8 km (5 mi), especially in colder weather, condensation generated from cold engine operation may not get hot enough to evaporate out of the oil. When this occurs, the dipstick may indicate that the oil level is over-full. Subsequent driving on a trip of sufficient length to enable normal engine operating temperature for 30 minutes or more, in order to vaporize excess moisture, may give the customer the impression of excessive oil consumption. Engine Temperature If an engine is run at overheated temperatures (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual) for more than brief periods, oil will oxidize at a faster than normal rate. In addition, gaskets may distort, piston rings may stick, and excessive wear may result. Verify that all cooling system components are in proper working order. Engine Wear Piston scuffing, excessive piston-to-wall clearance, tapered or out of round cylinders, worn, damaged or improperly installed valve guides, seals and piston rings will all cause an increase in oil consumption. Measurement of Oil Consumption Engines require a period of time to BREAK IN so that moving parts are properly seated. Therefore, oil economy should not be tested until the vehicle has accumulated at least 6400 km (4000 mi). An exception would be allowed only if an engine is reported to be using more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 1600 km (1000 mi).   Verify that the engine has no external leaks. Repair as necessary. Verify that the engine is at normal operating temperature (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual). Park the vehicle on a level surface. Wait at least 15 minutes, after the engine is shut off, before checking the oil level to make sure that most of the oil has had time to drain back into the crankcase. Check the oil level and record the vehicle mileage, date, and exact oil level on the form included in this bulletin. Next ensure the oil level is at, but not above, the full mark on the dipstick. add oil if necessary. Also ensure the proper viscosity and quality oil are being used as recommended in the Owner Manual Ask the customer once they have consumed 100 gallons of fuel schedule an appointment and return to the dealer for inspection. If the final evaluation shows that the engine uses more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 379 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used, follow the published symptom diagnostics as described in the appropriate Service Manual. If the oil consumption test shows that the engine uses less than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 379 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used, explain to the customer that their engine meets the guidelines for oil consumption.  
    • RSTRICK
      OIL CONSUMPTION

      By RSTRICK · Posted

      I have a 2024 Chevy Silverado 2500 with the 6.2 liter engine, Vin: 2GC4YME79R1273849, with 27,437 miles. Recently we took a trip from Candor, NY to Townsend, TN pulling our fifth wheel, when I got close to the Townsend, TN area The truck gave me a message of low oil. I checked the dip stick and found it was 2 quarts low. Today, August 27, 2026, I had the oil changed and the technician Found the truck was very low on oil.  Is there a Recall for this? What is my recourse for this issue? Do I call the dealer where I bought it or any chevy dealer?   Robert Strickland 292 Owego Road Candor, NY 13743 352-502-6588 [email protected]
    • GMCustomerService
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      We understand the importance of understanding how your Sierra performs, @SoCal Angler. Our team would like to gather the proper details to assist you with your inquiry about your truck's automatic braking. When you have a moment, please visit: https://s.chevy.com/support-request and fill out the request form with pertinent details. This will ensure your request is routed correctly so we may take a further look. We will keep an eye out for your outreach.
    • Chuck FB
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      That is the funnel kit I bought and for being here in Canada I did get a better deal than what other sources were charging through a certain supplier in town that sources more directly and they ordered it for me. There are other items now on the market which would be perfect as well but this has worked well which was the hope when I bought it. I mentioned the Amsoil quart bottles as they have that squarish shape up top and it props nicely on the rim of the opening without falling into the funnel so I can leave them sit and drip a bit. You may have already figured out that to get the cap off the valve cover unless one is 7 + feet tall its not going to be reached without standing on a step of some sort and so when I do that I put the right adapter in and just leave the elbow on the funnel all the time anyway and open the lid and then if using quart containers for sure I can stand beside the truck and leisurely add the oil, and I can leave that funnel on when starting the engine to let it idle to fill the filter and then add the rest of the oil to top it up before removing the funnel and putting the factory cap back on. I put the cap back on the top and slide the bottom cap on as it fits onto the elbow adapter also and then store the funnel in a clean household plastic garbage bag along with the adapter so I have no reason to be washing out the inside of the funnel as I keep it completely clean between uses.    Draining the oil as per the under the truck portion, yes indeed that is slick as someone was thinking on GM's part there and admittedly I don't drop the oil screaming hot in this truck due to the exhaust being there and makes it safer as far as the oil temp if its just warmed up some instead as I don't have the truck on any ramps etc as I do it as the tires sit on the garage floor. The filter is not boiling hot then either and can drop it off into another pail after pulling the drain plug and just leave it drip out. Go back under a few hours later with new filter in hand and clean off the filter base and put the new filter on and install the drain plug. The filter is a little cramped in there as per wrapping ones hand around the filter and I am so used to using the band style filter removal tool that its no big deal and same for snugging it up. My filter wrench is many years old now but I think this is the current version and sounds like the right size, just in case my explanation was not great ( those nylon strap wrenches that one tool fits all filters are not my favorite tool to use, I much prefer this style personally )     57020 Swivel Gripper - No Slip Filter Wrench - Small | Lisle Corporation   And again about the oil draining and filter setup under these GM trucks, I've watched Ford videos of them struggling with oil flying sideways out of the oil pan on the gas 7.3 due to the sideways drain plug onto other components or cross members and guys trying to make shields out of carboard etc and other Ford pickups that Ford insisted they have sideways drain plugs. One win for GM there anyway with this engine. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...