Jump to content

bilstein 5100s or 2 inch rc leveling kit

bowtiemark

Recommended Posts

bowtiemark Enthusiast

bowtiemark

Posted
Posted

just join would literally be on this site reading and relay on it for answers than anything else lol but i purchase RC 2 inch leveling kit, the spacers that go under the front sturts and i’m reading more that the spacers seem to give bad ride control making it more stiffer and make mpg go down? then i also see people recommending bilstein 5100s that they are the best thing invented lol? but i’m just unsure to return the spaces and buy the 5100s for my front or might as well go all 4, or stick with the spaces till my factory shocks go out, BTW i love the ride on my factory shocks that’s why not to sure on the 5100s, this is my daily sticking with my 275/55/20 not much off reading happening :(

Paintor Enthusiast

Paintor

Posted
Posted

My 2wd stock was eating its factory tires outside edge.

 

Installed Spacers and new tires. 

 

Camber is now correct and no more tire wear.

 

Your ride will not change.

bowtiemark Enthusiast

bowtiemark

Posted
  • Author
Posted

interesting, people were saying to its mostly the spacers that go on top of the strut, glad i choose the bottoms one 

Jacoby Enthusiast

Jacoby

Posted
Posted

5100s are stiff and your ride will change. Spacers won’t change your ride at all. 

Jacoby Enthusiast

Jacoby

Posted
Posted
28 minutes ago, Waterfowler41 said:

 


Spacers change the angle of your UCA which most definitely impacts your ride quality.


Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork

 

A 2” rough country spacer won’t change the ride quality over stock. It just won’t. 

Waterfowler41 Senior Enthusiast

Waterfowler41

Posted
Posted

Spacers will impact the ride quality. 1/2” to 2” spacers is more manageable than say 2.5” spacers or those rare 3”. As you get higher the angle of your UCA gets more severe changing how the suspension transfers the energy of a bump in the road to the rest of the vehicle.

 

I ran a 2” RC kit for a while then upgraded to the 2.5” eibach kit. I’m counting down the days until my UCA ball joint bite the dust and can upgrade to better UCAs.

 

 

Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork

 

bowtiemark Enthusiast

bowtiemark

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so the 2” wouldn’t make that much difference of a ride quality since it’s not the higher ones right... just don’t want something that’s gonna be a huge difference compare to stock. 

rah7777777 Enthusiast

rah7777777

Posted
Posted

I'm following this. I'm in the same boat right now.

Do the 5100's to raise the front or do a small 1.5 to 2" strut spacer.

I don't hate the ranchos like most do, so I'm okay keeping them for now. 

bowtiemark Enthusiast

bowtiemark

Posted
  • Author
Posted

my rc 2” spacers come in today... going to instal then some time next week due to rain here in houston... was going to take it to a shop but they’re charging my 100+ and i’ve read it’s as easy as changing a tire lol... 

also seen that the 5100s are great for some off roading if you keeping it in the concrete you rather get the spacers... so going to post before and after pics here and let you know how the ride is after :cool:

bowtiemark Enthusiast

bowtiemark

Posted
  • Author
Posted

my 2014 silverado texas edition lt double cab front end is really low... my coworker has the same truck but he has fog lights i do not and his is higher, not sure if that’s why?? so hoping my 2” is even enough to level it.. 

SkiDooNick700 Enthusiast

SkiDooNick700

Posted
Posted

I was in the same boat as you.   I opted to forget about shocks for now and i ended up installing a ProComp 2.25" lift, top and bottom strut spacers.   I dont really notice any change in ride quality at all.   In fact,  I think it rides better but that may be because I stepped up one size to a 275 60 r20 P rated Flaken Wildpeak AT3W. 

 

I notice less bumps and jarring than i did when i was stock.   I would know because I've been driving the same roads and bumps and potholes for years on my daily work commute.

bowtiemark Enthusiast

bowtiemark

Posted
  • Author
Posted

@SkiDooNick700 how have they been over time? have you notice in wear to the ball joints, other suspension  components? really excited to put the spacers since i’m tired of this rake look.

decided once my factory shocks give up going to install the 5100s or fox 2.0

Sierra Dan Senior Enthusiast

Sierra Dan

Posted
Posted

I recommend the 5100s, Eibach or Pro Comp leveling shocks over the spacers.

I had 2" top spacers on my '14 Sierra then went to the 5100s and ride quality improved not to mention the plus side of the diagram Big Red posted above.

Spacers are cheaper than new shocks that have to be changed out of the assembly which requires more money as well.

Depends on how much you want to pony up really.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,982
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    nolankd
    Newest Member
    nolankd
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 471 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Black02Silverado
      New Retail Account Promo

      By Black02Silverado · Posted

      For a limited time, retail accounts receive a free fender cover (G2803) with their order of $750 or more when they use code FENDER926 at checkout. The promotion runs through Sept. 8, 2026. Own a business and want to apply for a retail account?  Apply here. https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/sell-in-your-store/?zo=521390  
    • Chuck FB
      Correct way to service 2024 l8t allison trans?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Thanks for that, yes just because I could I measured what came out just to give me some guidance although I already knew to expect it to take at least 9.5 to just throwing in the whole 10 quarts off the shot and doing a one and done heat cycle to drop out the excess to get to the proper level. I don't recall exactly now what I measured that came out but was less than I put back in, I knew I spilled some on the garage floor but the main part was that I was thrilled in the discovery I did not have to touch my exhaust to flex it down. The gasket manipulating is a pain of course to create that clearance to take the pan out and put back in but its all very doable if one is careful and not forcing the gasket to flex too much. From the quote I got at a transmission shop of 900.00 here in Canada ( never asked at the dealer what they charge ) I saved 700.00 doing it myself after paying for the supplies so that to me paid very good wages !, and I knew what fluid was put in and that I had changed the filter and that the level is correct without any doubts. 
    • bojanglespa
      2016 Sierra 1500 6.2L lifter Failure 🤨

      By bojanglespa · Posted

      I do have one of the AFM diasable box, using it for last 1.5 years.
    • Mellowth
      Tonneau cover and rack combo

      By Mellowth · Posted

      I found a setup that lets me open the cover partway with racks installed, using side-rail-mounted systems for easy access.
    • Chuck FB
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Typically its said and I agree so far that the engine oil drain plug oring is not required to be changed out unless you see some damage happening to the oring as apparently the oring lasts well. The dealer I have been getting a few parts from never even stocked the oring but instead stocked the whole drain plug that comes with a new oring which for the dealer is easier because they just throw in a new drain plug if there was any question about damage on it as well and charge the customer accordingly but again only if it is needed.    Also a hint about the drain plug oring to help it last vs a risk of causing damage to it, after its been removed and wiped off or washed off ( that is a whole other topic about some solvents damaging orings because some solvent types do ) to make sure to relube the oring with a bit of new oil so that it won't "grip" on the sealing surface of the pan and needlessly stress out the oring. Its no different than putting some oil on the sealing ring of the engine oil filter. So I just grabbed a new drain plug to have on hand although more recently bought just the oring as well but as its special it costs half the price of the drain plug ... !   Since you mentioned the hate to be empty handed theme, I am not sure what you have in the way of filter removal tools as I like using the exact sized for the filter steel 1" wide band with side to side swivel handle filter removal tool, and it can be used to snug up the filter without risk of damaging a filter as well ( its probably a lisle brand I have ). The drain plug hex size is 15mm and I always like using a 6 point socket if I have a choice and with this truck I've been using just a 3/8 ratchet that has a fairly long handle. Do you have a funnel that will work to pour oil in as that is definitely the short coming bastard part about the design with that fill port on the valve cover on such an angle that no normal funnel will even work. There are adapters and things on the market that will set into or screw into that fill port, I didn't want to deal with US shipping as that is all I was seeing at the time so caved and bought a Lisle brand multi vehicle fit adapter funnel kit and it really works well but there are much less expensive adapters out there that work in conjunction with an off the shelf funnel that would do the job also. Now that I have it, I like how it works and works so slick with the shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers I have now switched over to. Whatever you do, have a funnel system of some sort as you will be swearing if you dropped the oil and then realize you have nothing to properly pour new oil in without spilling it all over the engine !.     Other comments, quite a bit of oil flows out down the filter when its cracked loose due to the housing above the filter so let it dribble down the filter until it slacks off flow and then remove the filter to create less possible mess. It seems these engines can sit for quite a while and drip and if you have time let it sit there and drip out of the engine as much as it wants. Also a good time to grease the 9 zerks on the front end, that's my typical practice anyway to grease the suspension and steering each time I change the oil. And remember to reset the oil change minder ( not something I am used to doing with older vehicles and equipment ). 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...