Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I cant seem a way to figure out how to lock my keys in my AT4 without my doors auto unlocking.  I

 

do this in my other SUV and use the app to unlock so I cant lose my key.  I do this when I go places like amusement \ water parks so there is no chance I can lose my key and be stuck 100+ miles away.

 

Anyone know what setting im missing to accomplish this? 

 

Thanks

Posted

I believe an electrostatic bag might work. You should be able to put you keys in it and lock the truck. 

Anyone else have any knowledge on this?

Posted

I'm not sure on the new ones since the keys are setup as a keyless fob but on the older trucks you could go into the radio and turn off the safety lock that unlocks the door if you have the door open and hit the lock button. I think it's auto unlock or something like that in the radio.

Posted

I'm not sure how but it can be done. I will take a look at my settings. I lock the key fob in my truck all of the time. Also a point of interest, GMC has an accessory keypad (a knockoff of Ford's) that I had mounted on my door. ($250 installed at the dealer) that works great so far. You can lock or unlock the truck and therefore the tailgate without the key fob. I lock my keys in the truck all of the time and dont even need a phone to unlock.

Posted

I can lock my keys in my AT4 with my phone, sometimes the button on the door works. There is a setting to turn off the 3 horn honks that tells you you locked your keys in the car, I turned that off maybe that has an effect.

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted

2021 GMC Sierra 2500

I need to be able to lock both key fobs inside the truck. I had a touch pad installed so I could reenter. 

 

The electronics will not allow me to lock the fobs inside. I surmise there must be a way to disarm the auto-unlock.

 

How can I do this?

Posted
On 7/19/2021 at 2:52 PM, RVA410 said:

2021 GMC Sierra 2500

I need to be able to lock both key fobs inside the truck. I had a touch pad installed so I could reenter. 

 

The electronics will not allow me to lock the fobs inside. I surmise there must be a way to disarm the auto-unlock.

 

How can I do this?

It's on the settings section of your radio

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Solution: 

I had a GM touchpad lock installed at a cost of $145 plus less than 1 hour labor. Still GM support and the service manager did not know what it would do. 

1. I purchased 2 "Faraday" pouches (9.95) for my fobs and hide them anywhere in the truck or the bed. The truck now does not sense their presence. 

2. I can open the doors with my custom combinastion. I can lock the doors with the touchpad command.

3. The big difference is that if someone enters the truck they cannot start it because the sensor does not know if the fobs are on board or not and the potential thief doesn't know either. 

4. If I have left fobs in the truck I can return from fishing or hiking and get in with combination. 

 

No one at two dealers nor at GM support knew any of this. If there is a disable command in the radio I could not find it or it would not address an on-board fob. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted
10 hours ago, patischof said:

So, did you manage to accomplish this? I would also like to have this, but I don't know what I need for that. I thought I might need an electrostatic bag. Well, that didn't work. I tried to change some settings in it, still didn't work. I went to the dealer, they told me I should get a newer key that costs almost 1k!

You need the touch number pad for the exterior of the driver's door.  It's available via GM Accessories, and requires the dealership to do a computer programming for the touch pad. 

Posted
On 8/30/2019 at 10:30 AM, JerseyMikeAT4 said:

I cant seem a way to figure out how to lock my keys in my AT4 without my doors auto unlocking.  I

 

do this in my other SUV and use the app to unlock so I cant lose my key.  I do this when I go places like amusement \ water parks so there is no chance I can lose my key and be stuck 100+ miles away.

 

Anyone know what setting im missing to accomplish this? 

 

Thanks

get a spare key n put it in your wallet, that's what I did

Posted

The easiest non tec way would be to wear it around your neck via a neck chain. I use to keep a spare key on my tailgate post tied to a wire. On one truck I could slide it behind the gas cap lid bracket. So these high tech trucks still have keys? If not then sentence one. 

Posted

Go camping outside of cell range and accidentally close the door with the keys inside while packing up.  Regardless of the owner's manual saying it won't, it's sure-fire way for the vehicle to lock itself for some reason.  Ask me how I know.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
Posted
5 minutes ago, Salsa De Piña said:

Go camping outside of cell range and accidentally close the door with the keys inside while packing up.  Regardless of the owner's manual saying it won't, it's sure-fire way for the vehicle to lock itself for some reason.  Ask me how I know.

I've had that happen too. 

Posted

yeah i had that happen too, that's why i always leave a window down just enough to get my arm in to open the door.. a smart guy would go to a locksmith and get him to cnc a nonprogrammable key to hide somewhere.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...