Jump to content

Dash Rattle

MyWay

By MyWay
in Troubleshooting, Warranty & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

MyWay Enthusiast

MyWay

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

 

New to the forum and to Chevy. Long time Ram owner, made the jump lol.

 

I bought a 2019 Silverado Custom with 4.3L. I got a rattle coming from dash area. Sounds like its in the area of were the headlight sensor is up by the windshield. Only rattles in drive at a stop. Anyone else by chance?

Landry Enthusiast

Landry

Posted
Posted

I have had a rattle behind the dash near the drivers door for months now when I go over 50 mph.  I have taken it to two different dealerships multiple times with no solution.  It kills me.

OnTheReel Senior Enthusiast

OnTheReel

Posted
Posted
13 minutes ago, Landry said:

I have had a rattle behind the dash near the drivers door for months now when I go over 50 mph.  I have taken it to two different dealerships multiple times with no solution.  It kills me.

Check the hood release cable. Someone said something about tying it back with a zip tie to fix a rattle.

MyWay Enthusiast

MyWay

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So it has gotten worse...

 

Only rattles in gear at a stop. No rattle in neutral or park. Apparently only when there is a "load" if you will, on the engine. Even my kids asked what that is. Sounds dead center of dash. Im hoping just something in engine bay rattling. At this point going to make appt next week at dealer. 

 

Would you guys be ok if they had to tear your dash apart?????

FiatDale Enthusiast

FiatDale

Posted
Posted
I have had a rattle behind the dash near the drivers door for months now when I go over 50 mph.  I have taken it to two different dealerships multiple times with no solution.  It kills me.

So the ductwork behind the dash is probably rattling against the tie bar that goes the width of the dash. That’s exactly what mine was, little butyl between it and it’s solved. Like I mentioned, you need to remove e cluster for access but it’s not difficult. PM me if you need help
B.R.67 Enthusiast

B.R.67

Posted
Posted
On 9/28/2019 at 10:53 AM, FiatDale said:


So the ductwork behind the dash is probably rattling against the tie bar that goes the width of the dash. That’s exactly what mine was, little butyl between it and it’s solved. Like I mentioned, you need to remove e cluster for access but it’s not difficult. PM me if you need help

I have a rattle around the A post area when I get to 40mph.sounds like door but could be the dash.could you tell me the area you mean when you say cluster?

FiatDale Enthusiast

FiatDale

Posted
Posted

Cluster = speedometer. It’s behind that area, I can almost guarantee it. The rattle sounds like door/ a pillar / dash, but it’s that ductwork behind it. It has such slight clearance between itself and the metal tie bar that spans the width of the dash. When it’s warm, it flexes and bounces on top of that tie bar.

zzrsouth Enthusiast

zzrsouth

Posted
Posted

I think I have that LH AC duct rattle.  Also found sometimes moving the steering wheel rake up and down has quieted a buzz I had under load on the highway

B.R.67 Enthusiast

B.R.67

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, FiatDale said:

Cluster = speedometer. It’s behind that area, I can almost guarantee it. The rattle sounds like door/ a pillar / dash, but it’s that ductwork behind it. It has such slight clearance between itself and the metal tie bar that spans the width of the dash. When it’s warm, it flexes and bounces on top of that tie bar.

Thanks for info. The noise has seemed to stop the last 300 miles.if it returns which I'm sure it will I will look at this area. Thanks again.

  • 2 weeks later...
MyWay Enthusiast

MyWay

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just to update everyone:

 

Took truck to dealer. There was a gm bulletin out about dash rattle. Turns out I had the same problem. 

 

Issue was engine harness above transmission was rubbing on floorpan. They adjusted the harness, so far no more rattle!

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Moend Enthusiast

Moend

Posted
Posted
On 10/8/2019 at 8:59 PM, MyWay said:

Just to update everyone:

 

Took truck to dealer. There was a gm bulletin out about dash rattle. Turns out I had the same problem. 

 

Issue was engine harness above transmission was rubbing on floorpan. They adjusted the harness, so far no more rattle!

Do you have pictures of the area

Thank you!

Rsktm300xcw Enthusiast

Rsktm300xcw

Posted
Posted

Also having the rattle in my at4. Seems like if I pull back towards me on the center dash storage tray it seems to go away. Does this sou d like the rattle of the ducting on the bar?

  • Like 1
BIGDOGx Senior Enthusiast

BIGDOGx

Posted
Posted
On 9/28/2019 at 9:30 AM, Landry said:

I have had a rattle behind the dash near the drivers door for months now when I go over 50 mph.  I have taken it to two different dealerships multiple times with no solution.  It kills me.

These forums are your best chance at finding a solution to any rattle complaints. I have owned newer under warranty gm trucks now since the mid 90's i can tell you for fact most times a dealer will not solve rattle issues and they just hope to keep pushing you along until your past the 3 year or 36k mark which is when they are completely not obligated to fix interior rattles without charging you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...