Jump to content

Let's see your bed management system

Jorge18
 Share

Recommended Posts

bdsilverado Enthusiast

bdsilverado

Posted
Posted (edited)

The spot for the 2x4 that keeps groceries in the back is a small area, so I just added a sheet of ply to my 2x4 rack above. Along with that i have a sliding box that holds the trailer hitches and ratchets above. But the grocery idea easily freed up another 7 inches. All will be sprayed black soon. 

20200131_161352.jpg

Edited by bdsilverado
  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Ryno12
Ryno12

Yep, I use a 2x6 also. I sprayed mine with bed liner coating and also made moveable pieces that prevent items from sliding side by side. 

OnTheReel
OnTheReel
Ryno12
Ryno12

No problem! Hope it works out well for you.    Here’s other pics I took with the tailgate closed & the divider up front. I’ll probably make longer pieces that fit better up front. 

Posted Images

nolte Enthusiast

nolte

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've got this polymer bin that I used in my old truck that I wanted to keep using. The typical kind you can buy at Lowes or Home Depot. It's just about the right size for me and I throw a moving blanket folded up in the bottom of it in case I need it and it acts as padding for stuff. The 'feet' on the bin line up with the grooves in the bed so it slides in and out pretty straight.

I put an LED strip light in it that came with my bed covers (I think they gave me four strips and I've already got bed lights.)

It has a lid but I rarely use the lid in the truck.

I used the 2x6 but I put it up in the higher slots and put some spacers on it to keep the bin from jumping around. I just sprayed it with cheap flat black spray pain. It doesn't move at all with the tailgate shut. I can put it in the back of the cab if I need the whole bed for something big. If I've got longer stuff that's thin I can slide that kind of thing in next to the bin and under the 2x6. I can flip the 2x6 over and slide the bin all the way over to one side. I can put the bin in front of the 2x6. All in all I can swap it up and it stays put.

 

dLJHWySgX639Dh9UjpinJeWmhkv4jukclvU_ynwT

 

glguYvLFaHbF__jyKega3K8B0bWSnFT-C3b7iEc8

 

WlLUkgeIFoG0aMkIhNdleZDLkE3eBxHyyK_GZ1fT

 

A0Xd8W2A8wpdVzN5v9pxXA3sxJrIuQ2wXW7dDZt0

Edited by nolte
RAYS B4U Enthusiast

RAYS B4U

Posted
Posted
21 hours ago, disneybaker said:


Just noticed you name on here the B4U, is that a 94-96 Grand Prix reference?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No, RPO code B4U was for the SS option on my 03 Silverado.

disneybaker Enthusiast

disneybaker

Posted
Posted
No, RPO code B4U was for the SS option on my 03 Silverado.

Gotcha, was unaware they reused codes, B4U was the ground effects package on 94-96 Grand Prix coupes


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
JT19HC Enthusiast

JT19HC

Posted
Posted

Keep the large tools in a plastic Home Depot bin, smaller tools in a soft bag behind the wheel hump.  I also made some nice axe and shovel mounts out of rubber quick release clamps and the after market tie down inserts.  

bed mod2.jpg

IMG_0807 copy.jpg

  • Like 1
shortboxshuffler New Member

shortboxshuffler

Posted
Posted
On 2/2/2020 at 4:46 PM, JT19HC said:

Mounting possibilities to these tie down inserts are many.

IMG_3375 2.jpg

Where abouts did you find those mounts? I’ve been wanting to do something for my axe (big time camper/atv’er in the summer so it rides there all year) to keep it up out of the way of everything else and that is exactly what I’m aiming for!

JT19HC Enthusiast

JT19HC

Posted
Posted
15 hours ago, shortboxshuffler said:

Where abouts did you find those mounts? I’ve been wanting to do something for my axe (big time camper/atv’er in the summer so it rides there all year) to keep it up out of the way of everything else and that is exactly what I’m aiming for!

 

jgisonfire Enthusiast

jgisonfire

Posted
Posted
On 12/4/2019 at 5:28 PM, Ryno12 said:

Yep, I use a 2x6 also. I sprayed mine with bed liner coating and also made moveable pieces that prevent items from sliding side by side. 

A980813D-C9EF-4F8F-8EC3-4DF360B7045C.jpeg

 

 

How long did you cut the 2x6? I got a different number every time I measured (I was by myself) ranging from 72 to almost 73 inches. I feel like 72 and 1/4 is probably right, but wondered what you had.

Ryno12 Enthusiast

Ryno12

Posted
Posted
How long did you cut the 2x6? I got a different number every time I measured (I was by myself) ranging from 72 to almost 73 inches. I feel like 72 and 1/4 is probably right, but wondered what you had.


You’re pretty much right on. Mine is exactly at 72 3/16”. I think I started at 72.5 & then kept shaving a little off till went in & came out easily.
My bed is obviously sprayed with bed liner. Non sprayed beds will be slightly wider.
  • Like 1
nolte Enthusiast

nolte

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, Ryno12 said:

 


You’re pretty much right on. Mine is exactly at 72 3/16”. I think I started at 72.5 & then kept shaving a little off till went in & came out easily.
My bed is obviously sprayed with bed liner. Non sprayed beds will be slightly wider.

 

I intended to cut mine long and then shorten if too tight as well, but it wound up being like I wanted it on the first cut. 

 

I think it's the way to go because you can always shorten it if the tight fit bugs you, but if you're bugged by it wobbling around that's just not (quite) as easy.

 

I say cut it 72.5 and go from there.

  • Like 1
  • 9 months later...
Justin Vaughn Enthusiast

Justin Vaughn

Posted
Posted
On 12/4/2019 at 5:28 PM, Ryno12 said:

Yep, I use a 2x6 also. I sprayed mine with bed liner coating and also made moveable pieces that prevent items from sliding side by side. 

A980813D-C9EF-4F8F-8EC3-4DF360B7045C.jpeg

D36F380E-DF9A-4CA4-A9CD-B2A3E1D40BE8.jpeg

0C7BFD62-A1AE-4CA3-AD9C-F1618AF11E64.jpeg

love this idea.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 473 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...