Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Took the truck into the local Firestone tire shop they had a hard time getting the replacement tires and only came up with 2 replacement tires after two weeks. I was told that this Bridgestone Alenza 22" tire is a New design and hard to get?  

1 out of 2 of the new ones was just a bad as the RR at 52 Road Force. They used the (1)  "good" new one and got it and all others under 30 on the road force. It was an improvement but the truck still has a slight shake. I was told that this is the best it will ever be with these particular tires? I now will have to decide if I want to try a set of Michelins / put up with shaking and keep driving or sell the silly truck and just drive a 10 year old beater ride all the time........... 

First 55k takes it home! let me know who wants it......    

 

 

Posted

That's frustrating. I got word on Friday that GM approved for me to get a new set. Just waiting on them to setup the appointment and let me know if I can choose the tire or if I'm stuck with exact replacements. 

Posted (edited)

When I take my Alpha Husky to the vet and he tries taking her temperature (you know where), she sits down and growls at him, so they come up with a different plan because she is the customer!

 

Do not roll over and piss yourself and let GM drag their feet if you are unhappy!!! Make calls, let the dealership and anyone listening at GM know how unacceptable this is and make them fix the problem!!!

Edited by JimCost2014
Posted

I have a Denali as well, so please don’t take this the wrong way. You are never going to be happy with the Bridgestones, they are subpar tires. I know out of principle we should be able to make the dealer be responsible for the fix but the fact is they never will be. Most of you who can afford a Denali know the concept of time is money. My vote is you get a set of Michelin’s and move on with your life. Should we have to fork out another $1k on tires on top of an already expensive truck, no, but that’s the reality of the situation. On top of that, even if the dealer could get a set of good tires, they probably wouldn’t be able to balance them properly. Get the Michelin’s from discount tire, at least they stand behind them and will make it right if the new tires don’t fix your issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
4 minutes ago, hotrodz37 said:

Get the Michelin’s from discount tire, at least they stand behind them and will make it right if the new tires don’t fix your issue.

Did that with our 16 Tahoe, best move we could have made. But the factory Bridgestone's were pretty much shot in less than 40000 miles, so the choice was a lot easier.

Posted (edited)
On 2/23/2020 at 6:15 PM, hotrodz37 said:

Road force balancing measures radial runout which measures the roundness of the tire. LT tires should be under 30 I believe and our trucks under 20 or 15 if I’m not mistaken.

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

30 to 35 lbs on p or hard metric tires.  45 to 60 lbs on lt tires.  Road Force goes up 7 to 8 lbs per 10 psi increase in tire pressure.

 

#iworkforGM 

Edited by MTU Alum
Posted
30 to 35 lbs on p or hard metric tires.  45 to 60 lbs on lt tires.  Road Force goes up 7 to 8 lbs per 10 psi increase in tire pressure.
 
#iworkforGM 


That is PSI correct? We’re talking about road force runout here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
32 minutes ago, hotrodz37 said:

 


That is PSI correct? We’re talking about road force runout here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I listed the road force number limits.  LT tires are determined by pressure because road force increases with pressure.  

 

#iworkforGM 

Posted
I listed the road force number limits.  LT tires are determined by pressure because road force increases with pressure.  
 
#iworkforGM 


Yikes, no wonder our trucks shake. Those limits are far from acceptable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted (edited)

The specs are fine.  They are same or lower than any of ram or ford specs.  These are the limits and majority of asms are lower.  

 

There is a bigger problem with getting a quality shake analysis and tire balance from dealer.  

Edited by MTU Alum
Posted

Finally got approval to have my tires replaced. Attached are the notes from the service. Still don't entirely understand the lbs unit of measure but am happy that with a max of 22 the vibration is not felt in the cab anymore. 

2020-03-13 12_21_43-Clipboard.png

Posted

I really appreciate everyone's input. I will probably end up just ordering a set of Michelin's and moving on.

Right now I am dealing with Hail damage from a recent storm, adjuster was out today and estimated it at $2,500.00. Looking for the best PDR outfit in town right now...............sometimes it just feels like a new vehicle is more trouble than it is worth.

 

Might be best to just  "DRIVE A BEATER"  Haha

Posted
Finally got approval to have my tires replaced. Attached are the notes from the service. Still don't entirely understand the lbs unit of measure but am happy that with a max of 22 the vibration is not felt in the cab anymore. 
1335788246_2020-03-1312_21_43-Clipboard.thumb.png.def9f7758e2ac825c8e5d77af005a24c.png


What’s crazy to me is the horrible road force numbers these trucks are coming from the factory with, wtf? I guess you get what you pay for (Gm pays for) tire wise in this case.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
10 minutes ago, hotrodz37 said:

 


What’s crazy to me is the horrible road force numbers these trucks are coming from the factory with, wtf? I guess you get what you pay for (Gm pays for) tire wise in this case.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

To be fair, these numbers were before the original road force. After they road forced the old set they were around 30 and below but i think they told gm this to get approval 

Posted (edited)

are the tires REALLY out of balance or is GM still using the defective torque converters in the driveline 

this has been an issue since 2014 ... GM is squeezing suppliers for cheaper components and the suppliers are delivering cheap parts

Edited by flyingfool

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...