Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

This will be a long story, but I will try to get straight to the point in the hopes this may prove useful to others here.

 

 I purchased my 2019 Silverado RST in July of 2019. It came with a 6" Rough Country lift, 20" wheels and 35" tires installed with 21 miles on the odometer at the time I drove it off the lot. After approximately 3 months (4500 miles) I started getting several malfunctions and warning lights that included;

 

   Service trailer brake system

   Steering assist is reduced

   Service power steering

   Service ESC

   Service 4wd

   Fuel level low

   Check Engine Light

   Brake Light Illuminated

   A/C blowing warm

   Gauge needles all acting erratically.

 

You can see some of these in the following video following this post.

 

After shutting the truck off and restarting it, all issues remained. I then shut the truck off and disconnected the battery and let it sit for 10 minutes before re-connecting. Upon restarting it, the check engine light remained on, however all the malfunctions went away. I continued my trip home (6 hours). The next morning I decided to take the truck to my local dealership to let them take a look, after less than one mile, all the malfunctions returned. Dealership kept the truck 3 days. They checked all grounds and pinned all wires. Could not locate the issues. So I took my truck home and within two days all issues returned. I left the truck with the dealership again, this time for a week. They ordered a new ECU and gateway and installed both. At the end of the week I took the truck home, didn't even make it all the way home before all malfunctions returned. This time however even trying to shut the truck off was an issue. Pressing the ignition button would kill the engine, but all the electronics would stay active. Pressing the ignition again, and the engine would start, however dash and most electronics would be dark. Disconnecting battery also would not correct the issue. So, I started the engine and drove the truck back to the dealership very carefully.

 

This time I left it with them for a month (I work offshore) to allow them to get it fixed once and for all. I also had a stern talk with the Manager as well as opened a case with General Motors. I wanted this truck off my hands at this point. Brand new, and already had technicians pull dash out, all wiring harness' apart, and all around just molested the truck (no longer new in my opinion). A GM engineer ended up flying into town to look himself on the 4th week of them having the truck and not being able to figure out what the problem was. It took him literally 4 minutes. He looked under the dash, saw the Hypertech programmer, and unplugged it. They drove it around for a few days and the issues never came back. GM washed their hands of it and cancelled my complaint. 

 

Now, I spent >60k on this truck and still wasn't happy. Now I have a truck that reads approximately 5 MPH off on the speedometer. The truck was opened up and molested several times. However, it looks like there isn't much else to be done at the moment. The funny thing is, GM will not pay the dealership's technicians for all the time spent diagnosing my truck due to it being an aftermarket part that created the problem. However, this dealership installed these aftermarket parts, so they are on the hook, however they don't feel responsible to pay for all the technicians time either. So they pursued the aftermarket company that sold and did the install of the lift, wheels, tires and programmer. Nope...they don't feel responsible. SO on this goes to Hypertech now since the part failed. None of which concerns me. My truck operates like it should now. BUT, I will be taking it to said aftermarket installer to have a new programmer installed soon, and yes,  this will also be on the dealerships dime.

 

So in closing, if you have a lift, have a Hypertech programmer and your dash suddenly goes into chaos mode.....unplug the programmer. I hope this saves someone the time and grief that I went thru.

 

 

 

Edited by theCATALYST
  • Thanks 2
Posted

The following video is of how the engine could be on, but all electronics be dark. Shutting the engine off, and all the electronics light up.

 

 

Posted

All the programmers I’ve used including hypertech you plug in then program then unplug. Even if you just do tire size up to my 2014. 

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
47 minutes ago, KARNUT said:

All the programmers I’ve used including hypertech you plug in then program then unplug. Even if you just do tire size up to my 2014. 

Honestly, I don't really know the specifics. But attached is the unit boxing and the instructions I found online pertaining to it.

Screenshot_20200217-182437_Gallery.jpg

Screenshot_20200217-182442_Gallery.jpg

20200217_182822.jpg

Edited by theCATALYST
Posted
1 minute ago, theCATALYST said:

Honestly, I don't really know the specifics. But attached is the unit boxing and the instructions I found online pertaining to it.

Screenshot_20200217-182437_Gallery.jpg

Screenshot_20200217-182442_Gallery.jpg

20200217_182822.jpg

I see the ones I bought were programmers, they did everything. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I use hypertext in my 05 silverado, plug it in, asks questions, runs  programs on truck computer and unplug when qued too.

Posted

Good thing I haven’t gotten my wheels yet, I was planning on getting the hypertech. I wish GM would come out with the code for this exact reason. 

Posted

I had a hypertech tuner 10 years ago and had issues with it. They were a horrible company then and still are it seems. These new rolling computers we call trucks are getting near impossible to do any aftermarket mods to,  but something like setting the speedo for tires should be a no brainer for the dealership and they should take full responsibility for the whole mess. 

Posted

i have the exact same issue. Hypertech controls were interfering with the computer. Did they replace it? I was told the same info about the GM code. My service department is waiting on a response from the outfitter. 

Posted

I've got about 8,000 miles with my Hypertech programmer and so far so good! Keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks for the info, I would have never thought of that as the issue. 

  • 6 months later...
Posted

Had this exact issue with 2019 with 10,500 miles on it. Needless to say, I'll be taking it off the truck. Has anybody contacted Hypertech about some sort of refund since their product does not work as advertised (causes issues with new body style trucks)?

Posted (edited)

That is exactly why Hypertech gives you a sticker/decal with their products.  The instructions suggest that you to put the sticker under the hood next to the GM emissions decal.  That tells a Service Tech, before they do anything, that the original programming has been modified.  Also tells a subsequent owner that the vehicle has been tuned in some way.  That is why the instructions also suggest that you remove any Hypertech modules/programming and revert back to the original state of tune before any in-depth dealer service diagnostics or related programming changes.  

Edited by MaverickZ71

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 970 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...