Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just did mine install in 1 hour and 20 minutes, that includes running wires from the Switches, into the engine compartment for future use. Two things to help you do this install;

 

First, insert a long screwdriver into the hole in the rubber boot from the engine side into the cab. Do this for two reasons, one, made sure the path for the new wire is clear and unobstructed, second, while the screwdriver is installed, go into the cab and look were it is located, that way you have a idea were to look for the wire you are going to insert. 

 

Second, spray a little wire lube in the rubber boot to make the wire slide in easier. Make up a 4 wire harness and stick it in the rubber boot after you insert the power wire. You might as well extend the wires from the switches while you have everything apart.

  • Like 2
Posted

When my truck came in after waiting out the strike I noticed the upfitter switch kit on the back seat. When I asked the salesman about it he said that Was to be installed by the customer. I said well I have a check for $75,000.00 to pick up the truck but you won’t be getting it till the switches are installed. The next day I picked up the truck with the switches installed problem solved. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
28 minutes ago, mostcorey95 said:

I was told by my dealer I cant install them due to not having the rpo code 9L7

I figured on something like that as well. I just wanted the hardware and fuses. If I have to, I'll wire them to battery power. I'm probably going to be running most of my accessories through a relay anyway. It'll pretty much be mostly lighting.

  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 3/26/2020 at 4:17 PM, blamkin86 said:

 

First, grab the fuse box, and hold it near where we'll be installing it:

IMG_0597.jpg.0f450d511d7ab92edbd2666b1af8ac74.jpg

 

First, the black plug you just put on the red wire from the first steps, plug that into the fuse box. I don't have a picture of this, but there's only one place it can go.

 

At this point, you're switches are wired into the harness in your truck. 

 

 

 

 

 

I understand you can change the 5 switches as to where they are used with ignition on / engine running and or engine off and hot at all times controlled by the switch. Someone said by moving the fuse over in the same slot but different connection within the slot. Anyone got the new fuse panel where they can take a photo of the open fuse access? 

 

Chuck

Posted (edited)

So I  went on a quest to get more info on the famous knee bolster removal and replacement. I know the up fitters #153 has a small pictures to kinda get some info BUT not enough. It was discovered that half the dash must be removed to get to it! It is because of 1 screw under the radio trim. I found a GM link to a PDF file on how to remove the dash trims for replacement of various panels. Here is the link

https://photos.app.goo.gl/d2UVb4djaqf3ashL9

So now this shows where the screws are as well as the push clips. 

 

I used the wrong link. Here is the correct link This is a PDF file.

https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/1265/Instrument Panel Knee Bolster Replacement.pdf

 

 

Chuck

Edited by Gecko50
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thanks for the write up and the picks... For those of you not lucky enough to have GM at least change out the dash and gave you all the parts here are some photos to help with the process. FYI you have to disassemble a lot of things be prepared. I am also doing this on a 2020 AT4 3500.

 

1.  Push up on the gauge cover. Just the leather part.

IMG-0487.jpg

Posted

5. Pull both sides away from center council 

6. There are two tabs under the arm rest that need to be popped up then you can slide out the cup holder. Use =cation as there are wires attached. I disconnected one of them to be able to move it out of the way.

IMG-0484.jpg

Posted

7. This is probably the worst piece of trim in the world to get off. Its the little piece just under the break controller. It has two wings that go down either side. There is a clip at the end of each wing one on the left side front and right side front and one in the center.

IMG-0483.jpg

Posted

9. At the bottom you will see two screws to remove

10. Pull forward from the bottom to move the whole unit including the radio forward a couple of incest

11. Snaps around the edge will allow the radio to fall forward with the vents

IMG-0481.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • That should answer the maximum depth difference between the stock and the PPE so its not hugely lower. As to the PML pan, they don't make any claims that it fits the L8T with the same transmission and in fact leave their information confusing, however on the surface it says "for Duramax" and so its hard to say. I know a while back and not sure which brand it was that specifically stated that the extra capacity pan that particular company made did NOT fit the gas version. 
    • There are several versions of the 5100's. Some for stock height, some for leveled, some for lifted.    Side note. I finally had a chance to tow with my 30' gooseneck with about 10,000 lbs of material on it this past week. Hands down the 5100's made the trailer towing much more stable and comfortable. I even had 10 cmu blocks in the bed. What a difference over the stock shocks. 
    • According to PML, the stock pan is 4.3" deep - (PML info): Dimensions: at deepest area, PML pan is 7 inches, stock pan is 4.3 inches    PPE is 5.4" so roughly 1.1" deeper than stock
    • I had not realized that PPE has come out with a version of a cast aluminum oil pan specific to being able to fit onto the 10L1000 with the L8T engine sometime this spring. I was doubting that anyone would come out with something beyond what Dorman had in more of a direct factory pan swap. I see from one comment that is on the PPE site that they found the pan to be tighter to install then the factory unit and having to flex the exhaust down to fit it. I didn't lookup any specs if they have any as per how much lower it hangs but as it holds more oil and has fins outside the pan it would no doubt hang a certain amount lower.    I looked back at the site and they do have some depth measurements to get a rough comparison to the factory pan total height or hang down if you will at the front and rear of the pan so that will give a good idea how much further down this pan would end up being for ground clearance issues.    2024-2026 GM 6.6L Gas 10L1000 Heavy-Duty Cast Transmission Pan – Pacific Performance Engineering    
    • I'm in constant amazement over the number of people that do oil maintenance by how they feel, what they were told, what materials cost, what brand A claims vs brand B.     Come to think of it, this behavior isn't exclusive to oil. 🤔 They drive this way too. 😬   There is a 20 plus page thread on BITOG on Mobil 1 Advanced Clean vs Valvoline Restore and Protect it would be amusing if it were not so........humanly pitiful.   Last Sunday we were are sitting at services and listening to a speaker talk about Jesus parable of the wide and narrow gates and he said something that hadn't dawned on me but totally fit the way people in general are about just about everything. He said there are so few people on the narrow path leading to a good reward not because the the narrow gate was hidden or hard to find but because the wide gate leading to a bad end it so darn easy and uncomplicated to follow!!!             
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...