Sir Oric0826 Posted June 14, 2020 Posted June 14, 2020 Hi, So I got a cold air intake from k&n but the one I got has a metal intake tube, after taking it to a tuner he informed me after the truck warms up the intake tube also heats up causing my IATs to spike and timing gets pulled. They said to get a plastic intake tube but I don’t want to spend another 300+ dollars on another intake. If I got titanium exhaust heat wrap and wrapped the intake with that would it help to keep the heat off the intake? thanks, Daniel
Black02Silverado Posted June 14, 2020 Posted June 14, 2020 That would be your best bet to keep the metal tube from heat soaking the engine compartment heat.
Sir Oric0826 Posted June 14, 2020 Author Posted June 14, 2020 7 minutes ago, Black02Silverado said: That would be your best bet to keep the metal tube from heat soaking the engine compartment heat. I also saw that gold reflective tape, do you think that would be more effective?
Grumpy Bear Posted June 14, 2020 Posted June 14, 2020 1 hour ago, Sir Oric0826 said: Hi, So I got a cold air intake from k&n but the one I got has a metal intake tube, after taking it to a tuner he informed me after the truck warms up the intake tube also heats up causing my IATs to spike and timing gets pulled. They said to get a plastic intake tube but I don’t want to spend another 300+ dollars on another intake. If I got titanium exhaust heat wrap and wrapped the intake with that would it help to keep the heat off the intake? thanks, Daniel There use to be an exhibit at the museum of science and industry. A chess board where every square was a different material. Each square about 4 X 4. The materials were heated from below to all be at the exact same temperature. You put your hand on one at a time and they all felt like they were quite different. Wood felt warmer than glass and so on. The material will change the amount of time it takes to reach under hood temperature but soak any material long enough at the same temperature and it will be at the same temperature. I wouldn't worry about it.
CamGTP Posted June 14, 2020 Posted June 14, 2020 (edited) Food for thought here. The IAT sensor is built into the MAF sensor, which it at the start of the intake by the air filter. In the very short time that the air is in the metal pipe after the sensor the computer doesn't know what is happening there because there isn't a IAT2 sensor post intake in the plenum. So it can't pull timing based on the temp of the air after the MAF. You really just need to worry about the temps before the MAF. If the intake you have in open to the air under the hood, that is part of the problem for high intake temps. A sealed box like the factory is the best option to be honest as it pulls cool air from inside the fenderwell. Edited June 14, 2020 by CamGTP 2
Grumpy Bear Posted June 14, 2020 Posted June 14, 2020 My intake is stock and on the road never reads more than 2 to 3 degrees over ambient. Sitting idling at the take out window it gets a bit warmer. Factory inlet is a cold air system.
dieselfan1 Posted June 14, 2020 Posted June 14, 2020 Haven't we all decided that the factory setup is better than any CAI? 2
KARNUT Posted June 14, 2020 Posted June 14, 2020 There’s been studies that show CAI and exhaust offer improvements. Not as much as in the past as the auto manufacturers used CAI with sound deadening. And multiple mufflers, resonators and cats that flow really good . If you put an aftermarket CAI and it’s not sealed probably you have the opposite effect. Opening the exhaust you have sound probably not enough horsepower to feel the difference. So is it worth the money? That’s debatable. My last new truck 2014, I did muffler delete. I gained nothing in my marked off area. My personal test area for 40 years. My younger days I would have done it anyway. I had too that’s just the way it was. If you hear it, it’s faster. It’s just money, right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1
Grumpy Bear Posted June 14, 2020 Posted June 14, 2020 (edited) In the early 70's when all this EPA watchdog stuff got started and the OEM's got blindsided with the un-doable getting large gains was pretty easy. Not as easy as pre-regulation, but easy. Today there are only crumbs left on the table for NA motors. Cost per hp has gone too far north for me to chase. Yea, you can get a few ponies with this and that but boy...$$$$$/HP!! Edited June 14, 2020 by Grumpy Bear 1
lucas287 Posted June 14, 2020 Posted June 14, 2020 13 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said: There use to be an exhibit at the museum of science and industry. A chess board where every square was a different material. Each square about 4 X 4. The materials were heated from below to all be at the exact same temperature. You put your hand on one at a time and they all felt like they were quite different. Wood felt warmer than glass and so on. The material will change the amount of time it takes to reach under hood temperature but soak any material long enough at the same temperature and it will be at the same temperature. I wouldn't worry about it. Well said grumpy! That's all r-value for insulation actually tells you. The higher the value the longer it takes for heat/cold to penetrate. 1
Bash74 Posted June 14, 2020 Posted June 14, 2020 Hi, So I got a cold air intake from k&n but the one I got has a metal intake tube, after taking it to a tuner he informed me after the truck warms up the intake tube also heats up causing my IATs to spike and timing gets pulled. They said to get a plastic intake tube but I don’t want to spend another 300+ dollars on another intake. If I got titanium exhaust heat wrap and wrapped the intake with that would it help to keep the heat off the intake? thanks, DanielI suggest you find a different tuner because they dont know what they are talking about. The tube has nothing to do with the IATs and timing being pulled. You are probably pulling in hot air at the box. Stay away from open box CAI and go with a closed one. In my opinion if you want a CAI is to use stock box and just have a different tube like an Airaid MIT or something. Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk 2
Grumpy Bear Posted June 15, 2020 Posted June 15, 2020 10 hours ago, Bash74 said: I suggest you find a different tuner because they dont know what they are talking about. The tube has nothing to do with the IATs and timing being pulled. You are probably pulling in hot air at the box. Stay away from open box CAI and go with a closed one. In my opinion if you want a CAI is to use stock box and just have a different tube like an Airaid MIT or something. Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk I saw a guy plumb a tube from plumbing PVC glued up that worked well. Painted it flat black and it even looked nice.
VdellaV Posted June 15, 2020 Posted June 15, 2020 (edited) On 6/13/2020 at 10:37 PM, Grumpy Bear said: My intake is stock and on the road never reads more than 2 to 3 degrees over ambient. Sitting idling at the take out window it gets a bit warmer. Factory inlet is a cold air system. This is the actual truth I bought a "Cold" Air Intake and felt the truck being more sluggish Did a log, Hello, 120*F intake temps I reinstalled my AirAid Intake Tube with the stock AirBox and Filter, truck went back to normal My 2 cents is get rid of those intakes and reinstall the stock one. And if you want more flow, get a Geen Filter or any drop in filter for the stock airbox I have had the AirAit MIT for a couple of years now, and im happy with the performance of the truck Cheers Edited June 15, 2020 by VdellaV 1
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