Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I know there has been a few threads on this but I wanted one specific to the trail boss and specific to the 18” rims. The Trail boss can handle bigger tires than the AT4 so to lump them together doesnt make sense.

 

What is or who has bigger tires on the stock 18” rims? 

 

Ive so far found that 295/70/18 has been done a few times without a level and no rubbing. 

 

That tires size is fine for me , I would be happy , however there is a rubber shortage especially for odd size tires.

 

my question is has anyone done 35x12.5” tires on the trail boss 18” rims. It seems the 12.5” wide is more so the issue vs the 35”.

 

Does anyone have 33” x12.5” ? 

Im curious because clearly people have 34.6” on stock trail boss 18” no level but they are 11.6” or 11.7” wide.  295/70/18.

 

Please help me out , im debating between trail grapplers, ridge grapplers , open country M/T, open country AT2 Extreme and BFG KM3.

 

 

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I'm very interested in doing the same thing to my new 20' TB with same 18" rims. I would like some answers on this matter as well.

 

Subscribed...

Posted (edited)

I put falken wildpeaks 295/70 on my TB... I thought they were supposed to be 34” tire but they measure 33”-33.5” tall on the truck. They’re about 1” taller and 1” wider than factory tires.

They do not rob at all. And they handle and ride just as good as the factory tires

heres a crap picture of mine with them and motofab 1” level.

 

35B410A0-C86F-49AF-921E-8CD0AE9A47DC.jpeg

Edited by Jmccracken1214
  • Like 3
Posted
2 hours ago, Jmccracken1214 said:

I put falken wildpeaks 295/70 on my TB... I thought they were supposed to be 34” tire but they measure 33”-33.5” tall on the truck. They’re about 1” taller and 1” wider than factory tires.

They do not rob at all. And they handle and ride just as good as the factory tires

heres a crap picture of mine with them and motofab 1” level.

 

35B410A0-C86F-49AF-921E-8CD0AE9A47DC.jpeg

Thanks for the information and the pic!

 

I'm looking at purchasing KO2's for the exact same truck you have. I'm going to put on the same motofab 1" level kit on my TB as well.  Do you think 305/65 18 will work without rubbing. According to everyone I have checked overall tire dimension is 33.6"?

 

Looks like the 325/65 18 overall dimension is 34.6. 

Posted

Don’t know if this helps but I was able to run 35x12.5x18 toyo mts on my non trail boss w a 2.5 level kit. Had to do some major trimming of the fender liner and remove the bolted on frame caps. Also had 2” wheel spacers. 

4FAA3520-E39A-44E0-BC0F-19586E918089.jpeg

Posted
On 8/15/2020 at 12:42 PM, Chips said:

I know there has been a few threads on this but I wanted one specific to the trail boss and specific to the 18” rims. The Trail boss can handle bigger tires than the AT4 so to lump them together doesnt make sense.

 

 

I'll bite.

 

Why can a TB take larger tires than an AT4?

Posted
15 minutes ago, redwngr said:

I'll bite.

 

Why can a TB take larger tires than an AT4?


Bigger fender well clearance on the Trail Boss. In both stock and levelled applications the Trail Boss can handle a bigger tire without rub or trimming.

Posted

To clarify further, its not just the Trail Boss.  All Silverados have a slightly larger fender opening than the Sierra lineup.

Posted

definitely interested in this too. I love my Trail Boss at its "stock" height and don't want to do even a leveling lift. But I do want to get a slightly bigger tire eventually to fill in the space. So does anyone have larger tires on the stock Trail Boss lift with 18" wheels?

Posted
On 8/30/2020 at 7:15 AM, Jmccracken1214 said:

I put falken wildpeaks 295/70 on my TB... I thought they were supposed to be 34” tire but they measure 33”-33.5” tall on the truck. They’re about 1” taller and 1” wider than factory tires.

They do not rob at all. And they handle and ride just as good as the factory tires

heres a crap picture of mine with them and motofab 1” level.

 

35B410A0-C86F-49AF-921E-8CD0AE9A47DC.jpeg

Could you please post a pic looking down the side? I get a lot of grief in my state trying to get an inspection if they stick out pretty much at all.

Posted
3 minutes ago, Jmccracken1214 said:

They don’t really.

C23BB27B-8501-476E-9F5B-22C37127834B.jpeg

Nice! Thank you very much

Posted

FYI if you’re running stock rims, the tires get really close to the UCAs. I have 295/70/18 on mine and here’s the clearance on it. Maybe 1/2” the most. I would bet that any wider would touch the UCA. b0969f0e5169e798eebea5d36f2b9929.jpg
472e32be63bf23b296b7dc7180719186.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a 2015 Silverado and sometimes I can not get in to the truck. I use the key to unlock the driver door. Something is locking the truck when I unlock it, last night I left the truck open and this morning it was locked with the mirrors folded in. This happens while driving so it is now a safety issue. I reach down for the folding button and they open, then they close again.  Any advice, thank you,   Ed
    • Did you ever find a resolution to this? my 2019 Silverado 1500 is showing the exact same headlights issues with the exact same symptoms.  would help a ton if anyone has any advice on this or better yet a known solution..
    • Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...