Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
On 9/19/2020 at 12:36 PM, 2018GMC said:

I’m not excited to replace mine when the time comes.

I will prob go for a Walmart / sams AGM. Maybe north star if I feel like spending that much.

Has optima improved since the mid 2000’s? I know when they moved production out of the USA people complained the batteries weren’t as good and didn’t last as long.

What model and brand of replacement battery did you install?

Any odd behavior with dying battery or it just wouldn’t start?

I replaced my Toyota 4R with a Red Optimal in 2012 and my 2003 Corvette with a Red Optima and have had 0 problems.  Since I dont drive the vette a lot, the old batts would drain down a lot,.  Both have been great.

Edited by AE1M
Add more info
Posted

30 miles from home on our first date night in months after having our firstborn, factory battery decided it didn't want my wife and I to get home. No warning, no sluggish starts or previous jumps. Went from no issues to completely dead. Fortunately my father-in-law was free and drove me to Autozone where I picked up an Odyssey 48-720T (AGM). Went with an Odyssey in my 1997 Wrangler and had zero issues in 6 years with it, figured I'd go with something I can trust. Got 4 years out of the factory battery. Was a pain to do it in the dark by the time we waited for him to pick us up, run me to Autozone, grab my tools, then get back to the truck...but it wasn't crazy hard to do. Helps I'm 6'4" though and could reach everything, would have had to stand on the tire otherwise. I've heard people say they put all the bars in the way to prevent theft, are stolen batteries still a thing?!?

Posted
On 9/19/2020 at 12:36 PM, 2018GMC said:

I’m not excited to replace mine when the time comes.

I will prob go for a Walmart / sams AGM. Maybe north star if I feel like spending that much.

Has optima improved since the mid 2000’s? I know when they moved production out of the USA people complained the batteries weren’t as good and didn’t last as long.

What model and brand of replacement battery did you install?

Any odd behavior with dying battery or it just wouldn’t start?

So, I used whatever Napa had.  I paid $147 out the door for an AGM.  Keep in mind I get a good guy discount since I used to work for a Cadillac dealer, so we used them a lot.  As far as Optima batteries go, I have heard the same complaints you are hearing.  I didn’t want to spend the ridiculous money for a Chinese battery.  I was having AC issues with my old battery.  My driver’s side wasn’t cooling as well as my passenger side.  I had an active body code for low voltage to the HVAV system, so after about 2 years of that battery, I felt it was time to replace it.  Slapped the new one in, cleared the body codes, and I’m back cool again.  My buddy at Cadillac swears up and down that I didn’t have to remove the coolant tank, but I did it anyway.  It made the job easier.

Posted
So, I used whatever Napa had.  I paid $147 out the door for an AGM.  Keep in mind I get a good guy discount since I used to work for a Cadillac dealer, so we used them a lot.  As far as Optima batteries go, I have heard the same complaints you are hearing.  I didn’t want to spend the ridiculous money for a Chinese battery.  I was having AC issues with my old battery.  My driver’s side wasn’t cooling as well as my passenger side.  I had an active body code for low voltage to the HVAV system, so after about 2 years of that battery, I felt it was time to replace it.  Slapped the new one in, cleared the body codes, and I’m back cool again.  My buddy at Cadillac swears up and down that I didn’t have to remove the coolant tank, but I did it anyway.  It made the job easier.

Thanks for the detailed reply.

Crazy what issues can creep up with a weak battery on these trucks.
Posted

Changed my  battery last night at Advanced and my power steering went out. Had to get a tow to the dealer, little frustrating. 

Posted

I've never had much luck with factory batteries, not sue why. I've had them last 2, 3, and 4 years. all the replacements from sams club or advance auto have lasted a minimum of 7 years. The one I have in my beater is from farm and fleet and is 9 years old.

Posted
17 hours ago, BSherrod said:

Changed my  battery last night at Advanced and my power steering went out. Had to get a tow to the dealer, little frustrating. 

Did you find the cause?  Hard to imagine a batt change would cause that

Posted
On 9/19/2020 at 12:05 PM, Rossum Possum said:

For those DIYers...I know join the club of those who have replaced the old flooded cell battery.  I also believe the engineers at GM to be sadistic.  I’ve never had to remove so much crap just to be able to remove a battery, for Fox Creek...On the bright side, I did spring for an AGM, and it is smaller in size :)   

A34425EB-C467-4925-9E16-977082441F89.jpeg

Do you lose any settings in the truck after disconnecting battery?  Radio stations, memories, etc...  Window sync etc?

  • Like 1
Posted
On 9/19/2020 at 12:05 PM, Rossum Possum said:

For those DIYers...I know join the club of those who have replaced the old flooded cell battery.  I also believe the engineers at GM to be sadistic.  I’ve never had to remove so much crap just to be able to remove a battery, for Fox Creek...On the bright side, I did spring for an AGM, and it is smaller in size :)   

A34425EB-C467-4925-9E16-977082441F89.jpeg

I did this today and installed an H7 Diehard AGM from Advanced, about $200.  I hunt in way northern NH and need a reliable batt when I need to start in really cold temps in a field in the woods!  The best video I found was here for the job.  My only difference was to remove the bracket center support instead of fighting with it.  The hardest part was removing the back bolt holding down the coolant reservoir.   It looked like too much to fight with a 50lb battery, used a bungie cord to hold it out of the way to remove and install. Total time was about 40mins including cleaning the tray etc...  No settings at all were lost, compass came on with the CAL message but it cleared itself after about 5 mins of driving.  Waiting for the temperature display to catch up, started with 32 deg when it was about 70 out.  The old batt might still be enough to start the truck, so I may mount it in the tray on the drivers side and just charge it occasionally to jump start myself.  Need to see what accessory I need, the existing empty tray doesn't have provision for the hold down clamp or I may just strap it there.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
19 hours ago, AE1M said:

Did you find the cause?  Hard to imagine a batt change would cause that

Turns out the kid at Advanced blew a fuse putting the battery in, $345 later I’m back on the road . 

Posted
On 9/28/2020 at 8:25 PM, AE1M said:

Do you lose any settings in the truck after disconnecting battery?  Radio stations, memories, etc...  Window sync etc?

I did not.  The only thing that had to reset was the external temperature.  It showed 32 at first, but then it caught up.

Posted

There is a design issue on these vehicles with the amount of stress the negative battery cable places on the post. I got 4 years out of the original and replaced with a AGM just over 1 year ago. Again same negative battery post failure. The bending moment on the post induced by the negative cable fatigue cracks the post inside the battery. The plastic housing holds everything together and you will pull your hair out when temps and moisture cause the air gap in the cracked post to create resistance build up losing voltage and amp draw. Both times mine exhibited starting issues given the amount of amps you need to turn the motor over. Easy way to tell if your post has failed internally is to put a 10mm socket and wrench on the nut of the negative cable and tighten the nut only placing a small amount of torque on the post while someone is trying to start the engine. The post will generally fail on the right side and propagate toward the driver side given the bending moment of the unsupported cable length. There is a hole in the trough above the cable that I used to use a zip tie to support the cable and reduce the stress on the post. You guys may want to do that first chance you get. Hope this helps those experiencing electrical issues that tend to come and go until it finally cracks far enough to put you dead in the water. Regards!

  • Like 1
Posted

Also the battery can be removed without taking the coolant tank out. Remove the fender brace and the lower support that mounts to the battery tray. Then rotate the front of the battery toward the driver side and lift it out. Pretty straight forward. The first time I swapped batteries I removed the tank. Then tried it this way the 2nd time without much issue. However, YMMV.

Posted
On 9/29/2020 at 12:34 PM, BSherrod said:

Turns out the kid at Advanced blew a fuse putting the battery in, $345 later I’m back on the road . 

I bought my battery at Advanced and they told me it comes up on their computer that they are not allowed to replace them. Guy told me it requires "professional" to install it on these trucks. Lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,987
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RSTRICK
    Newest Member
    RSTRICK
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 622 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Coming back from towing a car to my daughter in Nashville truck started making a screaming noise from underneath.  Pulled over placed in park and sure enough whining noise from underneath.  Dropped at the dealer fearing new tranny or another front pump/cover replacement.  Service writer said it sounded like the tranny too...  Well $300, new idler and a belt all is good.  Pop the hood and give a listen. lol  Now I'm telling dealers I'm no longer interested in a new truck.
    • HD uses the 6.6 gas.   Oil consumption while heavy working is considered normal.  1 quart per 100 gallons of fuel is the normal rate above 8600lbs GVWR.  If more than that, it is considered excessive.   They will have to perform an oil consumption test using the guidelines in TSB 03-06-01-023J.     Information on Engine Oil Consumption Guidelines All engines require oil to lubricate and protect the load bearing and internal moving parts from wear including cylinder walls, pistons, and piston rings. When a piston moves down its cylinder, a thin film of oil is left on the cylinder wall. During the combustion process, part of this oil layer is consumed. As a result, varying rates of oil consumption are accepted as normal in all engines. Oil Consumption Oil usage has a direct relationship with the amount of fuel used. The harder an engine works, the more fuel and oil it will use. Therefore, oil usage as a factor of fuel usage is a more accurate indicator of acceptable oil consumption levels than vehicle mileage for vehicles at or above 8600 GVW. The accepted rate of oil consumption for gasoline engines in vehicles at or above 8600 GVW is 1 liter (1 qt) within 400 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used. This rate only applies to vehicles under warranty, maintained in accordance with the appropriate maintenance schedule, driven at legal speeds and within design intent of the vehicle. Many factors can affect an owner's concern with oil consumption. Driving habits and vehicle maintenance vary from owner to owner. Thoroughly evaluate each case before deciding whether the vehicle in question has abnormal engine oil consumption. Gasket and External Leaks Inspect the oil pans, engine covers, and the engine oil cooler for leakage. Inspect for oil leakage into the engine coolant. Improper Reading of the Oil Level Indicator (Dipstick) The vehicle must be parked on a level surface to obtain accurate oil level readings. Verify that the dipstick tube is fully seated in the block. When checking the oil level, make sure the dipstick is wiped clean before taking an oil level reading and fully depress the dipstick until the shoulder bottoms out on the dipstick tube. The dipstick should be the proper part number for the engine/vehicle that is being checked. Not Waiting Long Enough After Running Engine to Check Oil Level The vehicle should be allowed to sit for at least 15 minutes, after the engine has been shut off, before taking an oil level reading to assure the oil has had enough time to drain back into the crankcase. In order to ensure accurate results, the temperature of the oil should be close to the same temperature as the last time the oil level was checked. Improper Oil Fill After an Oil Change Following an oil change, verify that the proper amount and type of oil was put in the engine and that the oil level on the dipstick is not above the full mark or below the add marks. Refer to the Owner's Manual or Service Manual for information on recommended oil quantity, viscosity, and quality. High Speed or High RPM Driving Continuous driving at high speeds/high RPMs may increase oil consumption. Because this may not always be an everyday occurrence, it is hard to determine exactly how much the oil economy will be affected. Towing or Heavy Usage Towing a trailer or hauling additional weight will increase oil consumption. Large frontal area trailers will further increase the work required from the engine, especially at highway speeds, and thus increases the rate of oil consumption. PTO Operation Operation of a PTO will increase fuel and oil usage, as the PTO driven accessory uses engine power to operate. Crankcase Ventilation System Verify that the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is operating properly. Blockages, restrictions, or damage to the PCV system can result in increased oil use. Oil Dilution from Condensation On vehicles that are usually driven short distances, less than 8 km (5 mi), especially in colder weather, condensation generated from cold engine operation may not get hot enough to evaporate out of the oil. When this occurs, the dipstick may indicate that the oil level is over-full. Subsequent driving on a trip of sufficient length to enable normal engine operating temperature for 30 minutes or more, in order to vaporize excess moisture, may give the customer the impression of excessive oil consumption. Engine Temperature If an engine is run at overheated temperatures (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual) for more than brief periods, oil will oxidize at a faster than normal rate. In addition, gaskets may distort, piston rings may stick, and excessive wear may result. Verify that all cooling system components are in proper working order. Engine Wear Piston scuffing, excessive piston-to-wall clearance, tapered or out of round cylinders, worn, damaged or improperly installed valve guides, seals and piston rings will all cause an increase in oil consumption. Measurement of Oil Consumption Engines require a period of time to BREAK IN so that moving parts are properly seated. Therefore, oil economy should not be tested until the vehicle has accumulated at least 6400 km (4000 mi). An exception would be allowed only if an engine is reported to be using more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 1600 km (1000 mi).   Verify that the engine has no external leaks. Repair as necessary. Verify that the engine is at normal operating temperature (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual). Park the vehicle on a level surface. Wait at least 15 minutes, after the engine is shut off, before checking the oil level to make sure that most of the oil has had time to drain back into the crankcase. Check the oil level and record the vehicle mileage, date, and exact oil level on the form included in this bulletin. Next ensure the oil level is at, but not above, the full mark on the dipstick. add oil if necessary. Also ensure the proper viscosity and quality oil are being used as recommended in the Owner Manual Ask the customer once they have consumed 100 gallons of fuel schedule an appointment and return to the dealer for inspection. If the final evaluation shows that the engine uses more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 379 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used, follow the published symptom diagnostics as described in the appropriate Service Manual. If the oil consumption test shows that the engine uses less than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 379 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used, explain to the customer that their engine meets the guidelines for oil consumption.  
    • I have a 2024 Chevy Silverado 2500 with the 6.2 liter engine, Vin: 2GC4YME79R1273849, with 27,437 miles. Recently we took a trip from Candor, NY to Townsend, TN pulling our fifth wheel, when I got close to the Townsend, TN area The truck gave me a message of low oil. I checked the dip stick and found it was 2 quarts low. Today, August 27, 2026, I had the oil changed and the technician Found the truck was very low on oil.  Is there a Recall for this? What is my recourse for this issue? Do I call the dealer where I bought it or any chevy dealer?   Robert Strickland 292 Owego Road Candor, NY 13743 352-502-6588 [email protected]
    • We understand the importance of understanding how your Sierra performs, @SoCal Angler. Our team would like to gather the proper details to assist you with your inquiry about your truck's automatic braking. When you have a moment, please visit: https://s.chevy.com/support-request and fill out the request form with pertinent details. This will ensure your request is routed correctly so we may take a further look. We will keep an eye out for your outreach.
    • That is the funnel kit I bought and for being here in Canada I did get a better deal than what other sources were charging through a certain supplier in town that sources more directly and they ordered it for me. There are other items now on the market which would be perfect as well but this has worked well which was the hope when I bought it. I mentioned the Amsoil quart bottles as they have that squarish shape up top and it props nicely on the rim of the opening without falling into the funnel so I can leave them sit and drip a bit. You may have already figured out that to get the cap off the valve cover unless one is 7 + feet tall its not going to be reached without standing on a step of some sort and so when I do that I put the right adapter in and just leave the elbow on the funnel all the time anyway and open the lid and then if using quart containers for sure I can stand beside the truck and leisurely add the oil, and I can leave that funnel on when starting the engine to let it idle to fill the filter and then add the rest of the oil to top it up before removing the funnel and putting the factory cap back on. I put the cap back on the top and slide the bottom cap on as it fits onto the elbow adapter also and then store the funnel in a clean household plastic garbage bag along with the adapter so I have no reason to be washing out the inside of the funnel as I keep it completely clean between uses.    Draining the oil as per the under the truck portion, yes indeed that is slick as someone was thinking on GM's part there and admittedly I don't drop the oil screaming hot in this truck due to the exhaust being there and makes it safer as far as the oil temp if its just warmed up some instead as I don't have the truck on any ramps etc as I do it as the tires sit on the garage floor. The filter is not boiling hot then either and can drop it off into another pail after pulling the drain plug and just leave it drip out. Go back under a few hours later with new filter in hand and clean off the filter base and put the new filter on and install the drain plug. The filter is a little cramped in there as per wrapping ones hand around the filter and I am so used to using the band style filter removal tool that its no big deal and same for snugging it up. My filter wrench is many years old now but I think this is the current version and sounds like the right size, just in case my explanation was not great ( those nylon strap wrenches that one tool fits all filters are not my favorite tool to use, I much prefer this style personally )     57020 Swivel Gripper - No Slip Filter Wrench - Small | Lisle Corporation   And again about the oil draining and filter setup under these GM trucks, I've watched Ford videos of them struggling with oil flying sideways out of the oil pan on the gas 7.3 due to the sideways drain plug onto other components or cross members and guys trying to make shields out of carboard etc and other Ford pickups that Ford insisted they have sideways drain plugs. One win for GM there anyway with this engine. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...