Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Great forum!!!!!

i just bougth a brand new sierra elevation 2020 and make my undercoating wiyh fluid film and was told not to shoot the frame with it so you guys what do you use too protectthe frame. I think the first year you put nothing.....

 Thanks!

Posted

Daubert Chemical Nox Rust is the wax coating used on the frames from the factory. You could coat any thin or bare spots with that. I've used Fluid Film on the metal under my truck with good results, then just tried to keep the frame clean.

Posted

This is how I protect my undercarriage. I just won’t drive it if it’s calling for rain. I drive my Civic to work due to it getting much better gas mileage. I guess I’m to picky but these things are expensive. 

904F9547-6A32-4743-9D47-2B9B8AC17659.jpeg

  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Resqu2 said:

This is how I protect my undercarriage. I just won’t drive it if it’s calling for rain. I drive my Civic to work due to it getting much better gas mileage. I guess I’m to picky but these things are expensive. 

904F9547-6A32-4743-9D47-2B9B8AC17659.jpeg

What fun is that?  Less safe too, drive that thing, don't save it for the next guy.

  • Like 1
Posted
25 minutes ago, swathdiver said:

What fun is that?  Less safe too, drive that thing, don't save it for the next guy.

That's what I'm saying! Although in my case I have a Lexus RX350 FSport AWD that is admittedly better in the rainy conditions and probably the 1-3 days of snow we'll get here in NC. But I'll drive my Trail Boss in all of that because I just like driving it better.

 

But getting back to frame coating, can you get line-x bedliner sprayed? Or is that not a thing? I've never needed undercoating here in NC for any of my vehicles.

  • Like 1
Posted

All I’ve done for some time is touch up the factory coating a few times a year with Daubert Nox-Rust. I’ve had good results, two winters in, everything looks more or less like new.


You don’t really want to put incompatible products like Fluid Film over the frame coating or you’ll have a real mess. You can still FF inside the rockers, fender lips, etc, though.

  • 9 months later...
Posted
On 10/2/2020 at 10:43 PM, 99silveradoz71 said:

Daubert Chemical Nox Rust is the wax coating used on the frames from the factory. You could coat any thin or bare spots with that. I've used Fluid Film on the metal under my truck with good results, then just tried to keep the frame clean.

On the Daubert website, there are multiple Nox Rust products.

Is this the one GM uses on T1 frames?

https://www.daubertchemical.com/products/corrosion-prevention/product/nox-rust-x-121b?

 

If not, which one?

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Gangly said:

Yes, that is the correct one.  I purchased 2 cans of aersol Nox Rust and it works great in aerosol form. 

Do you have a good source for this? 
 

Guess I should have google first, straight from the manufacturer it seems. 

Edited by Dirk13
Posted
On 7/22/2021 at 11:44 AM, Gangly said:

Yes, that is the correct one.  I purchased 2 cans of aersol Nox Rust and it works great in aerosol form. 

Thanks Gangly. And, I see you're in The Woodlands, TX. Small world, we probably live about 30 mins from each other.

Posted

Hate that frame coating.  It gets everywhere on my lift and the garage floor.  In my opinion, GM didn't paint or powder coat the frames because they're CHEAP!  Kinda like the absence of storage on the middle seat lid.  How low can they go!

Posted
On 7/24/2021 at 1:41 PM, Chevrolet1 said:

Thanks Gangly. And, I see you're in The Woodlands, TX. Small world, we probably live about 30 mins from each other.

Probably.  I grew up in Spring, off of 1960 and Aldine Westfield, so your in my old stomping grounds 😁

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
    • Consider me amused. We are who we are, right? 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...