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Posted

Just an update on my truck. It is still in the shop and they can’t find the oil leak. They replaced the dipstick tube assembly and seal and that did not solve the problem.

Posted

Odd for sure. Is it still leaking as before? The explanation for the heat valve seemed to indicate the dipstick needed to be removed. Wonder if they damaged where the dipstick enters block? If they already replaced the dipstick assembly I’d be looking carefully at the area it goes into the motor.

Posted

No but you certainly can put pressure on them. If some tech damaged something in the process of your earlier repairs they have little incentive to report their mess up. In fact likely hiding it. I’d raise hell.

Posted

I told them today that I was not going to take the truck back. I said they needed to figure out a way to either get me in a replacement truck or a refund. The dealership said they would look into it. I told them I didn’t have any faith in the truck anymore.

Posted

i've had several diesels and they never disappoint. i had one VW that needed a glow plug replaced -a five minute job after you spent two weeks finding one. except the old one had so much deposits.. i had to pull the head. diesels are off my radar for now.. too much difficulty getting parts and deploying them..

Posted
6 hours ago, Benzo1 said:

So my 3.0 has been in the shop 3 times for check engine light and it is on once again for the 4th time!  And only 8500 miles...  The only thing I notice with the truck is the motor fan continuously runs and the outdoor temp reading will say 32 deg when its 85??  I explained this to the service department and they replaced some temp sensor that was behind passenger side mirror.  It is throwing code P0071 which has to do with ambient air temp.  They said there are no bulletins related.  Gonna schedule another appointment and see if they can figure it out this time.  This is getting old very quickly!


It will also show 32f anytime the computer/ecu is reset for a few minutes until it reads the temperature. Maybe your fuse block bolts need to be tightened?

Posted
5 hours ago, Olympus said:

Just an update on my truck. It is still in the shop and they can’t find the oil leak. They replaced the dipstick tube assembly and seal and that did not solve the problem.

Mine weeps oil from either the rear of the oil pan gasket or rear main seal. It’s not enough to ever leave a spot on my driveway or any noticeable oil loss on dipstick, but it’s definitely wet around that area between 5,000mi oil changes. I’ve even specifically wiped it off very thoroughly to make sure it wasn’t from changing oil filter or anything. It does not bother me enough to risk taking it to the dealer to make worse, but I’m sure if that area had work done around it, it could agitate an already defective seal from the factory. 

Posted

I wouldn’t call a wet area not dripping defective. Is it marginal? Sure but as you stated it’s a crap shoot if replacing the seal will be any better. Often it comes down to machined surface finish. With time these areas actually get polished and can improve. Had a Honda that acted that way. Got 200K miles out of it and the wet area got smaller over time.

Posted
2 hours ago, jnissen said:

I wouldn’t call a wet area not dripping defective. Is it marginal? Sure but as you stated it’s a crap shoot if replacing the seal will be any better. Often it comes down to machined surface finish. With time these areas actually get polished and can improve. Had a Honda that acted that way. Got 200K miles out of it and the wet area got smaller over time.

I used the term defective because it technically should not be even getting wet if everything is working as designed, and assuming it wasn’t designed to get wet. Either way, I agree with you that for my situation it’s probably not a cause for concern. I mentioned it since it’s in the vicinity of the dipstick gasket where Olympus was having the dealer chasing his oil leak. Im guessing if his seal was getting wet like mine and the dealer was spraying carb cleaner in that area, it could have caused the quite noticeable oil leak he has now. And now that there’s been oil spraying for a bit, I’m sure it’s quite a pain to try to find the source of the leak.

Posted

I’ve got a 1955 Willys Jeep. I know all about oil leaks! If that’s not leaking it’s because the thing has no oil in it!

Posted
On 10/28/2020 at 2:13 PM, Sqrls said:


It will also show 32f anytime the computer/ecu is reset for a few minutes until it reads the temperature. Maybe your fuse block bolts need to be tightened?

So the 32 deg displays for 3-5 minutes and then the temp slowly rises but nowhere near the correct outside temp.  Also - the fan should not be running on a cold start...  Either way - check engine light has turned off and temp display and motor fan is back to normal.  Wasn't able to get it to the dealership in time.  Thanks for he recommendation to check fuse block bolts - all were tight.   

Posted (edited)
On 10/7/2020 at 11:36 AM, Olympus said:

Hey everyone, new member here and getting ready to purchase a new 2020 Silverado RST with the 3.0 Duramax. This is my first new vehicle purchase and I’m considering an extended warranty through the dealership just for any future issues with the truck. The extended warranty is through CNA and is their Preferred Care Plus which is their top tier warranty. It would be for 10 years or 150k miles. I would be selling/trading the truck at probably 100-125k miles depending on how good the truck turns out to be. The cost for the warranty is $3000 and there is a $0 deductible if I use the dealership service dept or $200 deductible if I use any other auto repair shop. I know there are lot more sophisticated electronic systems on new trucks these days not to mention the additional components and systems the these new diesel motors and I’m just wondering if the $3000 would be worth it for piece of mind or not. Obviously, the truck comes with the GM 3yr/36k mile bumper to bumper and the 5yr/100k mile powertrain warranty. Only other time I’ve experienced an extended warranty was when my wife bought a used GMC Envoy and she bought an extended warranty. It turned out to be worth the money because the sunroof got off track and crushed a bunch of plastic stuff in there and also her seat heater element went out. So between those two things, it more than paid for the cost of the extended warranty. Just trying to decide whether I should spend the $3k or if I should roll the dice and hope I don’t need it.

I bought my 2020 Sierra 1500 AT4 last month. I bought it from a dealer who offers a lifetime powertrain warranty through CNA National on every vehicle they sell. I opted for the bumper-to-bumper lifetime wrap policy. I paid  $3000 for this lifetime bumper-to-bumper warranty with a $100 deductible. From my research, this is the best car warranty available.

Edited by jeffwhip
  • 7 months later...
Posted

2020 Silverado RST 3.0L Duramax. Bought in October 2020. 12,500 miles. Rear Main seal blew out, oil everywhere. Seeing this is a common issue and GM has a bulletin out on it. Dealer says 12+ hour repair. 

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