Jump to content

Engine auto stop

BruceK
 Share

Recommended Posts

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted

https://www.rangetechnology.com/products/afm-dfm_disabler/?utm_term=range%20afm%20disabler&utm_campaign=Google+Search+-+Range+AFM+Disabler+-+Brand&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=9441693744&hsa_cam=8749802837&hsa_grp=90742944120&hsa_ad=410004707519&hsa_src=g&hsa_tgt=kwd-316503134549&hsa_kw=range%20afm%20disabler&hsa_mt=e&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=Cj0KCQjw28T8BRDbARIsAEOMBcxLgvuKqoA8j_jSrdTHsk6nGlpQQZ-_Xq-6PzHRtUDLNawqdA3_Ti4aAry5EALw_wcB


Ryan B.

econometrics Senior Enthusiast

econometrics

Posted
Posted

Yeah, the Range device kills auto-stop AND DFM. And all you have to do is plug it in... a lot easier than the auto-stop eliminator. 

Ed/2020RST Enthusiast

Ed/2020RST

Posted
Posted

I understand the Auto-Stop is a pain but nothing more than an annoyance than anything and can be disabled by the push of a button. I personally can't see spending $200 to disable it when all I have to do is push a button. Before I installed my Cat-Back I hardly notice it at all. Now that it is installed I only notice it when driving in slow city traffic and/or coming to a stop. The exhaust sounds like the motor actually shuts off then refires when it downshifts into 1st gear. The DFM of course is another matter. I know what the system is there for but wonder what the MPG difference is when it's disabled??

O Town Denali Enthusiast

O Town Denali

Posted
Posted
17 minutes ago, Ed/2020RST said:

 I know what the system is there for but wonder what the MPG difference is when it's disabled??

About 1 mpg with 75% highway driving.  About 50 gallons/year in my case.  Hypothetically of course. ?

  • 2 weeks later...
204Denali Enthusiast

204Denali

Posted
Posted

Comes down to 2 options, and if you want to do a very simple plug and play by your knees (more $$) or the plug n play that goes behind the dash, continues to use the button (less $, but requires some labor) 

O Town Denali Enthusiast

O Town Denali

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, GSC52 said:

Anyone here tried the https://www.rangetechnology.com/products/afm-dfm_disabler/ yet?  The stop/start thing really gets on my nerves as well.  I've also heard of people just leaving their truck in tow/haul mode.  My trailboss has the  'race' mode too but I've not tried it enough to see what it does with the autostop.

Lots of people running the range device.  You can perform a search on it and see the threads.  Well worth it in my opinion.

C Gerber Enthusiast

C Gerber

Posted
Posted (edited)

Our Sierra, with just 9K miles, has the Auto Stop no longer working. We don't know why, but I don't miss it! My wife asked if we should take it in, and I said, let's wait!

Edited by C Gerber
yousaveone Enthusiast

yousaveone

Posted
Posted

Engines run forever if they don't get turned off. Semi trucks achieve 1 million miles all the time. Taxi cabs run well into 750K. Starting an engine is when damage occurs. Do you want to do this 20X a day? Also it takes a toll on the starter, flexplate, battery and relays. I bought the range before I took ownership of my truck. IT WORKS ON THE 3.0!!

Keithstr20xhp Enthusiast

Keithstr20xhp

Posted
Posted
On 10/23/2020 at 11:40 AM, econometrics said:

Yeah, the Range device kills auto-stop AND DFM. And all you have to do is plug it in... a lot easier than the auto-stop eliminator. 

I can not find in there literature that the one device does both? 

2020_LTZ_in_Georgia New Member

2020_LTZ_in_Georgia

Posted
Posted
On 11/18/2020 at 12:01 AM, econometrics said:

https://www.rangetechnology.com/products/afm-dfm_disabler/parts/RA003B

 

AA52BEA8-3957-4C76-83E9-D1874EF1D57B.thumb.jpeg.c6ec07c4a458e54cb5b0da1367c2a81f.jpeg

Thanks gentlemen, this is just what I was looking for! I recently installed a Borla Type S catback exhaust and can really tell when it shuts down 4 cylinders. I have the auto stop off switch, but this is a nice perk to not have to touch that every drive too!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • OnTheReel
      Winter Returned

      By OnTheReel · Posted

      .30” of rain all month and it’s been weeks since that. “Mowed” our two properties today for the first time since July 2nd. It only took 30 minutes because all I had to do was level some weeds and saplings in a few problem areas. Everything else is dead.
    • tjonesdfw
      Shift to Park Message Warranty Claim

      By tjonesdfw · Posted

      Dealer reported a failed shifter module assembly so the whole shifter is getting replaced. Yet another premature repair… up to $12,000+ in extended warranty payout in only 5 years and 80,000 miles! 
    • tjonesdfw
      2021 with Intermittent AC Cooling Issues

      By tjonesdfw · Posted

      According to the dealer it’s an internal leak/failure of the compressor.  Again, another failure that shouldn’t happen at only 5 years and 80k miles.  For some reason the compressors must be hard to come by right now, because the truck’s been at the dealer almost a week and they just located a compressor at another dealer several states away today.  We’ll see if this fixes the issue.  
    • needafix
      Brake Bleed Procedure

      By needafix · Posted

      I'm not sure if this should be a reply on this thread or a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - ACDelco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles. When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so i did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance.
    • KARNUT
      Slate Electric Truck

      By KARNUT · Posted

      I wasn’t commenting on your post. Certainly wasn’t arguing. I was making an observation on my long term experience with supposedly proper length of driving for proper heat cycles. Works for me. Although I have seen water or vapor come out of exhaust when vehicles weren’t run very long and shut off. It’s very humid in the morning. Then hot and humid. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...