Jump to content

Oil pump

johnnypayne66
 Share

Recommended Posts

johnnypayne66 Enthusiast

johnnypayne66

Posted
Posted

2020 GMC Sierra SLT 6.2

3,500 miles
 

Bought new in January and hasn’t been driven much. I decided last week to take advantage of my free oil change before it’s one year expiration.
Dealer changed oil and on the way home the check engine light came on.   Code P106dd.  Returned truck to dealer and they say bad oil pump.  It’s sitting there today with back ordered parts.  I’m wondering is this a known problem with GMC 6.2 engine, and if so maybe I should trade .

 

BIGDOGx Senior Enthusiast

BIGDOGx

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, johnnypayne66 said:

2020 GMC Sierra SLT 6.2

3,500 miles
 

Bought new in January and hasn’t been driven much. I decided last week to take advantage of my free oil change before it’s one year expiration.
Dealer changed oil and on the way home the check engine light came on.   Code P106dd.  Returned truck to dealer and they say bad oil pump.  It’s sitting there today with back ordered parts.  I’m wondering is this a known problem with GMC 6.2 engine, and if so maybe I should trade .

 

Lol bad oil pump or forget to add oil, did you check to see if they filled it up before it was towed back?

 

The K2 trucks did have some issues with noisey pumps that had a tendency to go bad. But at 3,500 miles and it happening after a free oil change, i'm thinking your dealer might of been the true reason here.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)

The code is actually DTC P06DD Engine Oil Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Performance.

 

The variable displacement solenoid valve if failed will set that code.  2014-2018 trucks its been seen on but almost always with mileage on it, say 70 thousand or more.  Plenty of trucks out there without an issue as well however.  Its not a "common" failure, but there are a couple reports of it out there.  At work we've changed 3 or 4 oil pumps out of the hundreds/thousands of trucks and SUVs with the Gen 5 engine we've sold since 2014. 

 

If you got that after an oil change, a couple possibilities.  Tech put low or no oil in it or wrong oil filter.

Edited by newdude
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, newdude said:

The code is actually DTC P06DD Engine Oil Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Performance.

 

The variable displacement solenoid valve if failed will set that code.  2014-2018 trucks its been seen on but almost always with mileage on it, say 70 thousand or more.  Plenty of trucks out there without an issue as well however.  Its not a "common" failure, but there are a couple reports of it out there.  At work we've changed 3 or 4 oil pumps out of the hundreds/thousands of trucks and SUVs with the Gen 5 engine we've sold since 2014. 

 

If you got that after an oil change, a couple possibilities.  Tech put low or no oil in it or wrong oil filter.

Guess the 1 between the P and O faked me out :crackup:

BIGDOGx Senior Enthusiast

BIGDOGx

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, newdude said:

The code is actually DTC P06DD Engine Oil Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Performance.

 

The variable displacement solenoid valve if failed will set that code.  2014-2018 trucks its been seen on but almost always with mileage on it, say 70 thousand or more.  Plenty of trucks out there without an issue as well however.  Its not a "common" failure, but there are a couple reports of it out there.  At work we've changed 3 or 4 oil pumps out of the hundreds/thousands of trucks and SUVs with the Gen 5 engine we've sold since 2014. 

 

If you got that after an oil change, a couple possibilities.  Tech put low or no oil in it or wrong oil filter.

Newdude at least on the 14 which is what i have to the 18 model years  do they sound like a 1986 ford taurus with a bad power steering pump? I have been told by some techs that is the prelude to a bad pump and most likely bad engine when it pops, all dealers around me and even my own mechanic claim it to not be anything to worry about but the whine drives me crazy somtimes.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, BIGDOGx said:

Newdude at least on the 14 which is what i have to the 18 model years  do they sound like a 1986 ford taurus with a bad power steering pump? I have been told by some techs that is the prelude to a bad pump and most likely bad engine when it pops, all dealers around me and even my own mechanic claim it to not be anything to worry about but the whine drives me crazy somtimes.

 

These Gen 5 make noises on day one.  My 2019 old body with 22k on it made noise and still does.  Bad oil pump solenoid you will see the oil pressure gauge either stay high, or not spike up on acceleration over 3500rpm for the second stage, etc.  Its not that the pump is bad, its the solenoid that fails and that solenoid is not replaceable outside of replacing the entire oil pump assembly.  

 

Quote

 

#14-06-04-004G: Various Engine Noises During Cold Start and Warm Engine Operation - (May 27, 2020)

Direct Injection (DI) / High Pressure Fuel Pump / Fuel Injectors

The new Small Block Generation 5 engine family incorporates a new fuel system technology known as Direct Injection (DI). With DI, fuel is injected directly into the cylinder using a high pressure fuel system. DI provides many benefits in improving engine efficiency. In particular, DI improves power, torque, and most importantly fuel efficiency. This technology is included as standard equipment on all Generation 5 engines in the Small Block engine family, which are the 4.3L V6, 5.3L V8, 6.2L V8 and the 6.6L V8.

The high pressure fuel system does have unique operating characteristics, in particular the noise emanating from the high pressure fuel pump can result in a subtle ticking noise that is apparent when the vehicle is idling. The sound is more evident when outside around the vehicle, when the hood is open or the vehicle is operated in a drive-through. The sound may be more noticeable during a cold start, but lessens once the engine is warm. A slightly higher pitched clicking sound is the fuel injectors pulsing ON and OFF under the high fuel pressures.

These sounds are a normal characteristics of the DI high pressure fuel system.

Another operating characteristic is a slightly longer crank time when the engine is started. The increased crank time is the result of the time required to build high pressure in the fuel system before the engine starts.

Oil Pump Cold Start Rrrrp or Rasp

The oil pump design has changed from a gerotor gear type pump to a two-stage vane type pump for fuel economy reasons. At temperatures at or below 0°C (32°F), or when the engine has been sitting for a few hours, it is possible to have air enter the pump through normal oil drain back. Upon startup, the owner may hear a short “Rrrrp” or “Rasp” coming from the front of the engine. It is most often heard during a remote start.

There is nothing wrong with the oil pump or oil system. No repairs should be attempted for this condition.

 

 

  • Thanks 1
johnnypayne66 Enthusiast

johnnypayne66

Posted
  • Author
Posted
4 hours ago, newdude said:

The code is actually DTC P06DD Engine Oil Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Performance.

 

The variable displacement solenoid valve if failed will set that code.  2014-2018 trucks its been seen on but almost always with mileage on it, say 70 thousand or more.  Plenty of trucks out there without an issue as well however.  Its not a "common" failure, but there are a couple reports of it out there.  At work we've changed 3 or 4 oil pumps out of the hundreds/thousands of trucks and SUVs with the Gen 5 engine we've sold since 2014. 

 

If you got that after an oil change, a couple possibilities.  Tech put low or no oil in it or wrong oil filter.

I checked oil before I left dealer.  Truck never ran bad at all. Just check engine light was on by the time I arrived home.    I cleared code and drove truck to dealer the next morning.  I spoke with service rep and discussed oil weight and possibly wrong filter.  Mechanic ran test while I was there and told me filter was right and all testing suggested oil pump. 

johnnypayne66 Enthusiast

johnnypayne66

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 hours ago, BIGDOGx said:

Lol bad oil pump or forget to add oil, did you check to see if they filled it up before it was towed back?

 

The K2 trucks did have some issues with noisey pumps that had a tendency to go bad. But at 3,500 miles and it happening after a free oil change, i'm thinking your dealer might of been the true reason here.

Yea , strange it all happened after oil change. 

johnnypayne66 Enthusiast

johnnypayne66

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies, makes me at ease about my truck.  I was concerned GM might have a problem with pumps.  Glad to here that’s not the case.  If I may ask another question about replacement of pump.  Is this job assigned to just any tech , or is this job better served by a seasoned tech.  The reason I ask is the tech assigned to repair my truck is fresh out of mechanic school and is 20 years old.  

I will keep this post updated. 

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
11 hours ago, johnnypayne66 said:

Thanks for the replies, makes me at ease about my truck.  I was concerned GM might have a problem with pumps.  Glad to here that’s not the case.  If I may ask another question about replacement of pump.  Is this job assigned to just any tech , or is this job better served by a seasoned tech.  The reason I ask is the tech assigned to repair my truck is fresh out of mechanic school and is 20 years old.  

I will keep this post updated. 

 

 

Its an A tech job.  It could be a 30 year old doing it, but a trained 30 year old.  They aren't giving it to the brake job gravy king to do.  

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
johnnypayne66 Enthusiast

johnnypayne66

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Just back from dealer. Truck still not ready.  I did walk to where they are working on my truck to take a look.  Truck is on the lift, and it’s looks like the front axles are out plus oil pan radiator and so on.  It must be in a hundred different pieces.    Said may get it back together by this Friday.    I m beginning to think this truck will never be right again. 
 

today starts 5 weeks it’s been in their shop.  

Edited by johnnypayne66
Update down time.
Gangly Senior Enthusiast

Gangly

Posted
Posted
19 hours ago, johnnypayne66 said:

Just back from dealer. Truck still not ready.  I did walk to where they are working on my truck to take a look.  Truck is on the lift, and it’s looks like the front axles are out plus oil pan radiator and so on.  It must be in a hundred different pieces.    Said may get it back together by this Friday.    I m beginning to think this truck will never be right again. 
 

today starts 5 weeks it’s been in their shop.  

No reason to worry until there is a reason too :)

When you pick up the truck, ask for additional warranty on the drivetrain and go home with a smile knowing that your covered for an additional period of time above and beyond the normal.

johnnypayne66 Enthusiast

johnnypayne66

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Picked up truck just a few minutes ago.  Everything seems normal.  Oil pressure 40 psi hot, cruising almost 60.   Fingers crossed, and thanks for all the replies.   

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • devonthegreat
      anyone interested in a 2002 Chevy Silverado 4x4 parts truck NYC

      By devonthegreat · Posted

      **SOLD** Please end or delete post. thank you
    • PBNB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By PBNB · Posted

      Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...