Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
33 minutes ago, Car Dude said:

So if the rings are not installed the result would be a 2" drop or so?

So what he did was that he installed bilstein shocks that was meant for 07-14 GM trucks. Based on the specs of what he installed and what was meant for our trucks, the strut for the older models is shorter, even though placing the snap ring at the highest setting lowered his truck. So if you were to use that same strut and place it on the stock setting, it would even be lower. On bilstein struts, you need to use the snap ring in order to install the coil.

Posted
On 1/20/2021 at 2:59 PM, 808 HI said:

So what he did was that he installed bilstein shocks that was meant for 07-14 GM trucks. Based on the specs of what he installed and what was meant for our trucks, the strut for the older models is shorter, even though placing the snap ring at the highest setting lowered his truck. So if you were to use that same strut and place it on the stock setting, it would even be lower. On bilstein struts, you need to use the snap ring in order to install the coil.

Bob it sounds like you need to be the Guinea pig and tell us how it goes lol. I have been wanting to lower the front of mine about 1.5" since before I bought it late 2018. I also heard the bell techs did not ride all that great so I never tried them. I dont want to go to low in the front because of the limited options for the rear without doing a flip kit and a c notch.

Posted
1 hour ago, Car Dude said:

Bob it sounds like you need to be the Guinea pig and tell us how it goes lol. I have been wanting to lower the front of mine about 1.5" since before I bought it late 2018. I also heard the bell techs did not ride all that great so I never tried them. I dont want to go to low in the front because of the limited options for the rear without doing a flip kit and a c notch.

Bob ? If the belltech struts are still produced like they were few years back then I believe the ride quality will be worse than stock. Bilsteins are the only aftermarket struts that Ive read nothing but good reviews. Before doing this I would have to get both struts and do some comparison to see if the mounts are the same, from pictures they do. 

Posted

Owners running 24s, what size tire are you guys running? Im currently on 295/35 but getting thoughts of swapping them out, from different angles they kinda look small on this big body truck. I previously had 295/40 on different set of wheels and liked how they fill the gap but swapped them out after lowering the truck cuz they rubbed badly on dips and couldnt make full turns. Now im debating if I should go with a 285/40 or 305/35 to fill the gap a bit. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

285/40 or 285/35 might give you what you are looking for, have you done a size comparison? 
 

295 or 305 are the common go to. 285 would provide a bit of stretch to help with rubbing. 
 

I do not own 24s but just trying to help out

Posted

I'm still on stock 20's for now. I would go with the 295/40 if you're staying with the 3/5 drop. It basically gives you the look of a 4/6, wheel well gap wise. 295/35 seems to be the go to size for 4/6 drops. The 295/40 may still rub here and there but it's worth it for the look you want. The only bummer is there isn't much for tire options in a 295/40.

I had a 295/40 Atturo AZ800 on my 2019 Ram with a 3/5 and they were decent for the price. They did rub the top of the fenders on big dips in the road and the tire would hit the frame when turning full cut as well. I think that was more of a wheel offset issue though.73e4048a45a7c01cb7f4d7fc0f2ecdcf.jpg

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

Posted
46 minutes ago, formulaws6ramair said:

I'm still on stock 20's for now. I would go with the 295/40 if you're staying with the 3/5 drop. It basically gives you the look of a 4/6, wheel well gap wise. 295/35 seems to be the go to size for 4/6 drops. The 295/40 may still rub here and there but it's worth it for the look you want. The only bummer is there isn't much for tire options in a 295/40.

I had a 295/40 Atturo AZ800 on my 2019 Ram with a 3/5 and they were decent for the price. They did rub the top of the fenders on big dips in the road and the tire would hit the frame when turning full cut as well. I think that was more of a wheel offset issue though.73e4048a45a7c01cb7f4d7fc0f2ecdcf.jpg

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk
 

What rims are those?  They’re nice!

Posted
On 1/26/2021 at 4:22 PM, 808 HI said:

Owners running 24s, what size tire are you guys running? Im currently on 295/35 but getting thoughts of swapping them out, from different angles they kinda look small on this big body truck. I previously had 295/40 on different set of wheels and liked how they fill the gap but swapped them out after lowering the truck cuz they rubbed badly on dips and couldnt make full turns. Now im debating if I should go with a 285/40 or 305/35 to fill the gap a bit. 

I don’t have 24’s, but I was told by my installer to don’t go with 305’s because they’ll rub.

Posted
10 minutes ago, KriptiK said:

I don’t have 24’s, but I was told by my installer to don’t go with 305’s because they’ll rub.

I’m in the process of buying 24’s.  I think it all depends on the wheels backspacing if they’ll fit without rubbing.  

Posted
What rims are those?  They’re nice!
24x10 DUB Skillz. My plan was to powdercoat these black and use on the Silverado. Unfortunately they don't clear the fluid crossover on the front caliper. Sucks cause they were pretty cheap.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

Posted
On 1/26/2021 at 9:22 PM, 808 HI said:

Owners running 24s, what size tire are you guys running? Im currently on 295/35 but getting thoughts of swapping them out, from different angles they kinda look small on this big body truck. I previously had 295/40 on different set of wheels and liked how they fill the gap but swapped them out after lowering the truck cuz they rubbed badly on dips and couldnt make full turns. Now im debating if I should go with a 285/40 or 305/35 to fill the gap a bit. 

shell4.thumb.jpg.04de863dc00a24454bd78b0235a47f59.jpg

 

285/35/24 4/6 DROP

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Well, since I started this thread, I thought I should give an update on my suspension results and satisfaction. Currently, I have the 2" Maxtrac drop spindles, Maxtrac 4" rear flip kit and Belltech Street Performance shocks all the way around and the front struts are set at the OEM ride height. If I had known ahead of time I would not have used the drop spindles and just lowered the front with the adjustable struts. Reason being is that I am experiencing the front struts fully extending when I hit drops in the road surface causing the front of my truck to dive sharply. Also I am getting some rubbing when I turn lock to lock with the factory wheels. In the rear, the truck is riding super stiff and is causing my truck to dart around the highway because I think the truck is bouncing off of the tire pressure before the shocks react. I have added 2 degree shims to help cure vibration and they didn't completely work. I probably need to go with 6 degree shims, but I haven't gotten around to it. Also, I use my truck as a truck and haul stuff and have hit the bump stops both loaded and unloaded (factory bump stop brackets removed and no C-notch).

 

So, as much as I love the way the truck looks, I have decided to pull the drop kit off and raise the truck back up. I don't want to go back with the factory shocks so I was thinking about the Billstein 5100s or the 4600s and a 2" drop shackle in the back. Does anyone have any experience with those shocks/struts? By the way, anyone interested in buying a drop kit?!

Posted
21 minutes ago, Jacob Moody said:

Well, since I started this thread, I thought I should give an update on my suspension results and satisfaction. Currently, I have the 2" Maxtrac drop spindles, Maxtrac 4" rear flip kit and Belltech Street Performance shocks all the way around and the front struts are set at the OEM ride height. If I had known ahead of time I would not have used the drop spindles and just lowered the front with the adjustable struts. Reason being is that I am experiencing the front struts fully extending when I hit drops in the road surface causing the front of my truck to dive sharply. Also I am getting some rubbing when I turn lock to lock with the factory wheels. In the rear, the truck is riding super stiff and is causing my truck to dart around the highway because I think the truck is bouncing off of the tire pressure before the shocks react. I have added 2 degree shims to help cure vibration and they didn't completely work. I probably need to go with 6 degree shims, but I haven't gotten around to it. Also, I use my truck as a truck and haul stuff and have hit the bump stops both loaded and unloaded (factory bump stop brackets removed and no C-notch).

 

So, as much as I love the way the truck looks, I have decided to pull the drop kit off and raise the truck back up. I don't want to go back with the factory shocks so I was thinking about the Billstein 5100s or the 4600s and a 2" drop shackle in the back. Does anyone have any experience with those shocks/struts? By the way, anyone interested in buying a drop kit?!

The beauty of dropped spindles is they have zero effect on travel and little on alignment while maintaining factory half shaft angles. If you topping out that is a dampening issue IF the spring rate has the damper at near mid stroke. Spindles nothing to do with the dampening. 

 

Out back you have to have the room for compression to use the compression. It its skipping about again wrong dampening. 

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,981
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Clark_Elite
    Newest Member
    Clark_Elite
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 439 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I wonder how much carbon is on all those high mileage valves?
    • When I had a Bumper subscription for a few days when I needed to run title histories on cars I was looking at, I decided to look up a few of my old/past vehicles.   My 2015 Silverado was still actively registered and it last sold in 2024 with 160k on the clock. No idea if that's on the original engine but someone's keeping it on the road or the original AFM stuff is still going.   It used 0w20. I remember feeding it Mobil 0w20 AFE for the first 30k of its life on <5k OCI's.     Edit: Just did a nationwide search on Autotrader for 2015-2025 Silverados with 5.3's and sorted by highest mileage first.   357k 352k 292k 291k 290k 277k 271k 268k 266k 259k 256k   High mileage on a modern 5.3 doesn't seem all that uncommon, but that's just searching mostly dealer ads on Autotrader. FB Marketplace has all kinds of high mileage 5.3's going back to 2007    
    • I can't say I have ever heard of someone getting that type of mileage out of a set of tires even though they rotated on a regular basis but without a doubt if the front end gets wear and those tires are no longer able to track straight it scrubs them off, and driving style and road surface make a huge difference as well.    However that is not what prompted me to comment as it was the new tire theme of sitting in storage waiting to be used scenario. I am sure some tires can last for quite a while in storage if its not too warm and out of the sunlight but unfortunately some tires the way they their rubber compound is formulated they can age and dry out even in a reasonably decent storage location. My brother ran into this maybe three years ago when he was looking at the tires that were on his dually truck and a combination of wear on the rear ones and noticing that the front tires had some cracks around the sidewall of the tire not far from the bead but he had replaced only the front ones not long ago with 2 of the remaining 6 he had left from the initial two sets of takeoffs he had all bought at the same time .... 10 years ago ! ( the years fly by, a truck that only gets used a bit to haul a camper during the summer and sits in a shed for a large part of the year ). That second set of 6 tires, two he had put on the front prior like I said and they had very little wear but those cracks were now present. So we go into the shed where the other 4 tires had been stored all this time and every one of them had the same cracks in the sidewalls and so in the end it amounted to throwing away 6 brand new but 10 year old takeoff tires into the dump that he got a deal on at a tire shop because they aged out. They were a Ford factory equipment BFG tire and those tires did not age well compared to some tires I've seen far older then that and did not show that type of aging. True, they always say up here anyway that 7 years is sort of a limit for age by rights, we don't have the intense prolonged heat that many of you have down in the states that just cook tires and depends on where the vehicle sits when not in use. GB, another words maybe had you bought a set of tires to store it would have been fine as long as you used them up fast enough but there are no guarantees when it comes to rubber, tires or of that other type stored in some guys wallets 😆
    • 2020 2500 HD...I had some trouble getting the key into the ignition switch but went in fine after applying some extra effort. Since then, the door chimes when open when the key is out of the ignition. Also, when I lock the doors with the switch on the arm rest, the driver door locks but then unlocks. (I can lock everything fine with the fob) The message on the little screen displays the "Engine Hours"...kinda weird.   I'm guessing something happened to the ignition switch and it thinks the key is still in there. I unplugged the batteries for 20 minutes, no change. There are a number of videos on YouTube but nothing I can find that address this specific issue. Ideas appreciated, thank you.
    • Based on what I can tell, yes.   As for updating it, its a mixed bag.  Updates do fix a lot of issues, but occasionally can create some oddities.  They do more good than harm though overall.     Here's what the most current one does and a  V171 Improvements Important: Improvements will vary by model, build configuration, system, and sales region. Not all vehicles have all features. OnStar and Wi-Fi may not work after remote start CarPlay may not automatically reconnect Part of the Driver Attention messaging screen may be in English even though the language is set to something else XM may not work After a dead 12V the radio may set to Arabic at each startup Bluetooth contacts might not be able to sync with the vehicle During an OTA the 12V battery may drain Customer might see a screen telling them to return to the dealer After changing the Wi-Fi SSID or password a device may not disconnect If a device is connected on the 2.4Ghz band, nothing will connect to the 5Ghz one, which could show as slow Wi-Fi speeds Customers might have noticed Wi-Fi dropping in certain areas and reconnecting later Customer might see the top of the screen blinking during Android Auto Android Auto may not connect CarPlay audio might momentarily cut out The "Add Phone" button may be grayed out The radio may not start up   V167 Most Notable Improvements:   Outside Air Temperature is incorrect. -You may see a popup message for Engine Shift. (Corvette Only) After changing the exhaust sound they get a popup that "mode change not applied", even though it was. -When changing volume, the volume bar is for Traffic instead of Audio. -(Corvette Only) Improvements to the placement of buttons and text. -If the customer receives the message "Apple CarPlay Could not connect", the cursor might move in the opposite direction than expected when using the control knob. -Android Auto automatically starts playing their music, even though they have turned that off in settings. -Intermittently they have a red OnStar LED with no OnStar function and/or no audio. -The minimum length of the Wi-Fi password was increased to 12 characters. -The popup message "Driver Attention Check, check your mirrors or Super Cruise will shut down" may not have come up on the display when it should have. -Startup animation added for 20th anniversary of the V-Series on Cadillacs. -The Navigation app received location improvements when going under long underpasses. -In the Navigation app there are filters for charging points that the vehicle cannot use.   V164 Most Notable Improvements Most notable improvements contained in this release may include: Apps Intermittently, an “SD Card Removed” message will pop up in the Navigation app. While in the audio app, the radio may stop working. Trailer Tire Pressure sensors may not be learned in the Trailer app. Not being able to return to the home screen while in the Camera app. After an ignition cycle, the radio might go to a black screen or stop working if using Sirius XM. Spotify icon truncated on Audio app.   SXM When changing power modes with the ignition switch, the HVAC pop up might appear. During startup, the radio will show the brand splash screen then go blank. Receiving a confirmation pop-up when changing drive modes. A “Return to Dealer” message may appear on the radio screen. SuperCruise setting toggle may not work. System After an ignition cycle, the radio might go black or stop working if using Sirius XM (SXM). Settings When performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working. After performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working when trying to switch users. When trying to go into the Language section quickly after startup, the radio may stop working. Projection Wireless CarPlay cannot be connected after unpairing another wireless Android Auto device. When the Android Auto screen comes up to connect wirelessly, the screen may freeze if the Cancel button is pressed. Removed the Apple CarPlay Cannot Connect screen when a device fails to pair during the autoconnect process. CarPlay information may not show up in the audio app. Near Field Communications (NFC) chime may be heard when NFC does not work. The Cannot Connect screen does not pop up after the first connection on wireless CarPlay fails. Apple CarPlay is now functional in Guam. Over the Air (OTA) When a software update is cancelled, the downloading logo may still be displayed. Energy When using the Energy app, the radio may stop working. When plugging in the vehicle, the display might show “Now” instead of “Charging Upon Plug In.” Instrument Cluster Voice recognition can be started while on an OnStar or phone call. When downloading contacts, there is a progress bar and circles on the Recents page of the cluster. The temperature on the cluster and the display may be different. After receiving and ending a call on the secondary paired phone, the cluster may get stuck on the phone menu. Bluetooth Intermittent Bluetooth connection loss.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...