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Posted

Would this be a decent product to use to seal the top and sides of the rear spoiler? I had planned on using permatex black rtv silicone, but it attracts dust. I searched online and found this 3m product.

 

The truck is pacific blue, so black is what I'm going to use.

 

 

3m marine.jpg

Posted

I think if you use this and it develops a  leak anyway you risk being charged by dealer for extra time diagnosing and repairing the issue. If not flat out blamed for the leak or refused repair due to modifying . 

 

Remember when you take it in for warranty work there first thing is to look for a way to get money out of you. 

Posted

4200 isn’t as bad as 5200, but it would still be absolutely impossible to remove that spoiler in the future if you’re actually caulking around it? Unless I’m mis-reading...

 

I think it would be good to go over the window frame itself but that’s about as far as I’d go. Even then, I probably wouldn’t.

Posted

That stuff would be good for sealing the window but I wouldn't use it on the spoiler. That stuff and the 3M 5200 will hold an outboard motor to the back of a boat with no bolts or clamps. Good luck getting that spoiler off.

I put this stuff on mine (spoiler to cab). So far no leak.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NL4D2T8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Jay

Posted

I second what a couple others have said. Personally, I wouldn't do it. If it leaks, let the warranty handle it. I could definitely see any warranty work being refused if you still developed a leak and they found that on there. Just my .02, though.

I've been curious if due to this being so problematic for so many folks, if it's an issue they'd handle outside a warranty period. I would hope so, but I could also see them saying no.



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Posted
1 hour ago, Jay P said:

That stuff would be good for sealing the window but I wouldn't use it on the spoiler. That stuff and the 3M 5200 will hold an outboard motor to the back of a boat with no bolts or clamps. Good luck getting that spoiler off.

I put this stuff on mine (spoiler to cab). So far no leak.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NL4D2T8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Jay

Thanks for the response guys, never used it before. I appreciate the wisdom. Looks like it will be rtv then.

 

Jay, I have 25 ft of that stuff. I ordered it after reading about it here. But I can not stretch it enough to get it in the crack.  The crack is maybe .125, more like .0625. It will fit in the sides, but no way it will fit in the top, I started on one edge and pulled and used a popsicle stick and it just won't work. I don't want to spend another 20 bucks and order the hollow stuff and not have it work either. 

Posted
14 minutes ago, gemarsh said:

Thanks for the response guys, never used it before. I appreciate the wisdom. Looks like it will be rtv then.

 

Jay, I have 25 ft of that stuff. I ordered it after reading about it here. But I can not stretch it enough to get it in the crack.  The crack is maybe .125, more like .0625. It will fit in the sides, but no way it will fit in the top, I started on one edge and pulled and used a popsicle stick and it just won't work. I don't want to spend another 20 bucks and order the hollow stuff and not have it work either. 

I pushed it in with plastic trim tools. I did it on warm sunny day. It took some work but it will go in.

 

Jay

Posted

Well, maybe I will wait. The material was pliable, but it was below 32°F. More like 10. I will give it another go, in a heated shop. Also will use trim tools. I was afraid something like that would puncture the material.

Posted

I’m giving in and taking mine to the dealer. Going to ask for the window replacement, and ask them to put some sealant around the bolt holes before they reinstall the spoiler. Also going to have them inspect the window to make sure there is no missing sealant.


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Posted
12 hours ago, gemarsh said:

Well, maybe I will wait. The material was pliable, but it was below 32°F. More like 10. I will give it another go, in a heated shop. Also will use trim tools. I was afraid something like that would puncture the material.

Use plastic trim tools under the spoiler to lift the spoiler (locally) from the cab.  You will only lift it about .125" or so, but it will be enough to get that cord in.  You will only do about 2" at a time.  Takes about 15/20 minutes once you get going.

And yes...you can puncture the material.  You may, initially.  You'll get the feel for it and what the cord can handle.

You can get the trim tools from HF really cheap.

DO NOT USE METAL TOOLS!

Posted

Where are you guys putting this stuff, on the back/rear of the spoiler nearest the window?  And the goal is to prevent water from running onto the window?  Or are you putting it in the front of the spoiler to prevent water from getting to the nuts holding the spoiler in place?

Posted

On top between cab and spoiler. It helps keep water from getting to the top of the rear window.

 

Jay

Posted

dont not, i repeat, do not use 42 or 5200 with any hopes of ever getting it off. Ittl most likely stop the leak, but if it doesnt the dealer will never get all the material off and youll be royally ****ed 

Posted
On 2/14/2021 at 8:43 AM, Vicarod said:

Use plastic trim tools under the spoiler to lift the spoiler (locally) from the cab.  You will only lift it about .125" or so, but it will be enough to get that cord in.  You will only do about 2" at a time.  Takes about 15/20 minutes once you get going.

And yes...you can puncture the material.  You may, initially.  You'll get the feel for it and what the cord can handle.

You can get the trim tools from HF really cheap.

DO NOT USE METAL TOOLS!

I’ve noticed mine has a small leak and feel using the trim cord will solve the problem. I really don’t trust the dealership to solve this based on the 200+ page topic on this site. With that said, what trim tools are you using exactly to get the cord in?  I’d like to tackle this when the weather warms up, but not sure what tools would handle the job.

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