Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

09 Silverado crew cab 4wd. After programming the key fob it won’t work?? The truck will beep accepting the fob then does nothing. No codes,no check engine light,a few new electric parts (brake and oil switches,cruise control is back but key fob only works to program then nothing. Tpms is working fine reading all 4 tires so I wouldn’t think it’s the receiver. I need  some advice on what to try next? I’m wearing out the only key hole in the truck:)  thanks in advance!!  I just went out and tried the tpms reset with the fob and the horn honked and it went into reset mode,all tpms still good but fob will not lock,unlock,panic or start.zero response from truck unless in some form of programming mode(tpms reset,remote relearn) 

Edited by Draybyrd
Posted

I really can't help you on your fob problem, as I dont have an 09, but I have seen plenty of people who complain because they got the wrong fob and couldn't get it to program. Hopefully that isnt your issue.

Posted

I’ve kinda ruled out the fobs because the truck will recognize them in program mode but once out of relearn mode the truck won’t respond 

Posted

How many fobs are  you trying to program to the vehicle?  Are there any other vehicles with fobs within 50-100 feet?

 

It is possible your fob is dead, whether it is the battery or the electronics itself.  Just had one go the other day, the lock button on it quit working.  We keep 5 programmed to the truck so no big deal.

Posted

I have 2 and they both respond the same way.the truck will accept them in learn mode then they immediately don’t work. I’ve tested all the buttons on a rf reader they all work and holding lock and unlock on the fob is how it syncs in learn mode. Everything to do with the fobs seems to be working and everything with the receiver seems to be working (tpms,accepting fobs in learn mode) I can’t figure it out!!

Posted
3 hours ago, Draybyrd said:

I have 2 and they both respond the same way.the truck will accept them in learn mode then they immediately don’t work. I’ve tested all the buttons on a rf reader they all work and holding lock and unlock on the fob is how it syncs in learn mode. Everything to do with the fobs seems to be working and everything with the receiver seems to be working (tpms,accepting fobs in learn mode) I can’t figure it out!!

Well, if that is the case, it is likely that your Remote Control Door Lock Receiver needs replacing.  A bi-directional scan tool can read BCM codes and would allow for further diagnostic testing.

 

If you do replace the RCDLR, it will have to be programmed but you may get away with a used one that has the same options as yours.

Posted

I just went and pulled the receiver from behind the rear door trim and took it apart it looks fine no water damage or broken solder. I still don’t know how it’ll  sync remotes and read my tire pressure and be bad. A used one with matching numbers is only $25 on eBay so it’s worth $25 to see if that’s the problem. I’ll post back after it gets here with good news or more help. Thanks!! 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So I'm in the middle of a DOD AFM delete on my 6.2 L86 Sierra. I had a pick holding the tensioner but after I got the Cam phaser gear off I was cleaning off all the rtv and apparently I didn't have the pick seated far enough in. I bumped it and the tensioner sprang forward.  I think everything is good but I want a second opinion. The top of the tensioner is just a looped piece of plastic that rides in that channel right? There is no spring or anything is there? I got the gear and chain back on and it seems tight and everything looks right. I'm hoping nothing fell out.
    • My 2015 1500 LTZ Silverado suddenly won't go into 4 x 4 low. It will go into 4 x 4 high.
    • Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...