Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just turned 10k miles. I am thinking the float for the def gauge on my truck is stuck in the full position. It’s been at least 3k miles since I topped it off and I’ve smelt 2 regens but the level according to the dic is still full. It’s hard to believe that this uses such a minimal amount per regen. 
 

I’ve been on some bumpy roads and I have heard the fuel sloshing in the tank so I would imagine the def would be doing the same. Just wondering if anyone else has had the same issue. Think I’ll craw under it and tap the def tank (if I can get to it) with a dead blow a few times. 

Posted

DEF is used whenever the engine is running.

It is NOT a regen only item.

 

During regen, the truck adds fuel directly to the exhaust to create the regen heat. It will add some extra DEF to respond to the extra NOx produced burning the extra fuel. 

 

If it's been 3000 miles since it was filled and the gauge still has all the LED's lit I'd agree it's probably not displaying correctly. 

 

Checked my gauge today.

4600 miles since it was filled and it has 3 of the LED's off (above the 1/2 mark there is still one lit -- book says it will hold 2 gallons after the next one goes out)

iDash reports the level bouncing around 48-51%.  (I'm expecting the next LED to turn off soon)

 

Regens on this 3.0 are much more frequent than the were on the 6.6's I ran.

They are also much shorter duration. 

It's usually somewhere in the 260 - 320 mile range between regens and they are lasting 10 - 13 miles running 2 lane highway speeds. 

 

 

Having said all that I'm not sure the def display is super accurate -- I'd expect it to have a least a couple of LED's turned off by now.

Unless it's working really hard and using lots of fuel, it also be surprised if it needs def at 3000 miles. 

 

I'm expecting somewhere around 9000 miles til it tells me it's empty. 

Current plan is to run til it's empty and it starts giving the ' xx miles til speed limit' warnings. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Thanks for the reply. I’m honestly waiting for the speed warning to come on at some point since there’s been zero change on the level. Wish they would put some kind of indicator while in regen.

Posted (edited)

I wouldnt lose sleep.  Maybe you'll find the "fix" for needing to add def ... 🤣

 

Worst case, you'll get the 55mph warning and you'll know a trip to the dealer is in order.

Edited by steve841
Posted

2.5 gallons of DEF averages me around 3500-4500 miles. My first tank of DEF was used in 6400 miles, but my def use has slightly gone down. I have 35,000 miles on it already. I normally always have at least 1,000 lbs in the bed with mixed city/hwy driving and pull a trailer pretty often. Normally, I just add 2.5 gallons when it gives me 500 mile warning and it lasts 3500-4500 miles. 2.5 gallons from empty takes me 1-2 bars from full even though it’s only half a tank.

Posted

Thanks. I usually do not have a load. Seems like crystallization would become a problem at that rate no? Just seems like it’s been to long since the level dropped compared to the colorado I had. I’m going to see if obd2 fusion app I used to monitor on the colorado has the pids for the Silverado. 

Posted

If the level is detected the same way as in the LML def tank, then it's not a float -- it's a series of pin sensors, and a bunch of software to estimate the level between the sensors as well as to prevent the display from jumping around when the def sloshes. 

 

 

Posted
2 hours ago, bonzman17 said:

Thanks. I usually do not have a load. Seems like crystallization would become a problem at that rate no? Just seems like it’s been to long since the level dropped compared to the colorado I had. I’m going to see if obd2 fusion app I used to monitor on the colorado has the pids for the Silverado. 

I don't think crystallization inside the tank is going to be an issue.

 

Imho, wait for the 1000 mile to empty warning, and/or the 300 mile to empty warnings, and then add some.

The countdown for speed limiting doesn't start till it's reaches empty -- and the first warning is 500 miles to 65 mph. Lots of time from the first 1000 mile to empty warning to get def.

 

 

When I ran an LML my location didn't have a convenient bulk def nearby.

Most others reported that the tank would hold 2 of the 2.5 gallons jugs when the truck gave the 300 mile warning. Mine wouldn't take all of the second jug.  Meant managing a part jug and remember to later add the balance of the second jug later. 

Switching to buying/adding one jug at a time made it simpler.  Did that for a bunch of years without 'crystallization' from a part full tank.

 

 

 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I think this is a software problem. I work for Microsoft and I just bought a new 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 with a 3L diesel engine. We are on our initial cross-country trip towing a 4000 lb RV trailer. With 2500 miles on the speedometer, we have been through 5 2.5 gal bottles of DEF (in addition to what was in the truck when we pulled it off the lot). 
 

With a 5 gal DEF tank, I expected to be able to empty at least a 2.5 gal bottle of DEF into the tank when the tank was approaching empty. But no. Like the previous person, when the gauge says the DEF tank is empty, I am only able to add 2 gal of DEF before it overflows and makes a mess. 
 

I am completely confused by the message that says DEF empty and I have 500 miles before I am speed limited. 
 

I am convinced that the DEF tank is not empty, but I do have 500 mikes of range left. Yet I have to endure this dire message which takes over the dashboard screen for some 20 miles or so and then goes away. 
 

Meanwhile, the DEF level screen has only two readings, 7/8 full and empty. 
 

We need a software update. We need a better user experience so that we can live with this DEF system. 

  • 6 months later...
Posted

I have a 2021 GMC Elevation DURAMAX 3.0..... Around 7K on it.... After all being okay, suddenly the DEF gauge started to act weird. It happened after it gave me a low warning. After that and before putting DEF in it, the gauge showed half tank. Decided to fill one jug (2.5 gal), did not move........ After several miles now it was showing full!! Very frustrating. Decided to put the other 2.5 gal in it. It has been 2k miles and still showing full...... Took it to dealership and this is their response: "NO PROBLEMS FOUND, CONDITION IS NORMAL; DEF CONSUMPTION DEPENDS ON ENGINE LOAD, FUEL USAGE, HUMIDITY TEMPERATURE AND IS NOT MILAGE BASED. DEF SYSTEM WARNING WILL APPEAR SHOULD AN ERROR OCCUR"

 

So how is it that before, that DEF gauge will show different levels as the miles grown and now is not? Is GM Tech just giving me some quick response so to not troubleshoot the fault?

 

Thanks

Posted

The thing with the DEF gauge is that you have to think about it like the "miles to empty" that we have with fuel. It is purely an estimate and that estimate will change based on usage. If your vehicle usage changes suddenly, it takes time for the gauge to reflect that.

 

For me it hasn't been a concern so far. When I'm towing I'l just note what it predicts I have left and pack a jug accordingly. You start to get a feel for it after a while.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I am new to def but similar problems.  Mine was filled by the dealer and only showed about 1/3 on the vertical scale and showing def ok.  First warning came showing 525 miles left, followed by one at 225 miles showing def low.  Gauge never moved.  Put in 2 1/2 gal.  still no movement.  Talked to the dealership and the guy tried to convince me that there was no  gauge there.  I will be dropping in to see him in person.  Anyone with a similar problem ?  2019 Silverado, duramax diesel

  • 10 months later...
Posted
On 7/18/2021 at 10:37 PM, Ross McKenrick said:

I think this is a software problem. I work for Microsoft and I just bought a new 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 with a 3L diesel engine. We are on our initial cross-country trip towing a 4000 lb RV trailer. With 2500 miles on the speedometer, we have been through 5 2.5 gal bottles of DEF (in addition to what was in the truck when we pulled it off the lot). 
 

With a 5 gal DEF tank, I expected to be able to empty at least a 2.5 gal bottle of DEF into the tank when the tank was approaching empty. But no. Like the previous person, when the gauge says the DEF tank is empty, I am only able to add 2 gal of DEF before it overflows and makes a mess. 
 

I am completely confused by the message that says DEF empty and I have 500 miles before I am speed limited. 
 

I am convinced that the DEF tank is not empty, but I do have 500 mikes of range left. Yet I have to endure this dire message which takes over the dashboard screen for some 20 miles or so and then goes away. 
 

Meanwhile, the DEF level screen has only two readings, 7/8 full and empty. 
 

We need a software update. We need a better user experience so that we can live with this DEF system. 

 

LOL, you work for Microsoft so that is supposed to make us believe you are an expert on GM coding… give me a break… no one cares where you work
 

 

 

Posted
18 hours ago, Ckhris said:

 

LOL, you work for Microsoft so that is supposed to make us believe you are an expert on GM coding… give me a break… no one cares where you work
 

 

 

You replied with that $htty remark to a post from 2021?!  You must be really bored.  Be a better human.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...