Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 5.3 4x4, it has been sitting for 6 months. First thing I did was change the oil, next I drained the old gas and put new gas in. The truck would crank but not turn over. I replaced the fuel filter, and replaced the fuel regulator. Prior to replacing the fuel regulator I had no fuel pressure, gas was leaking through the diaphragm of the regulator into the intake manifold. Once I replaced the above items fuel pressure was up to 50psi with key in start position. The truck fired right up no problem but, there was a very loud ticking sound that sped up and got louder when I pushed on the gas. I immediately shut it off. I checked the oil and the dipstick smelled like gas. I drained the oil and there was a lot of gas mixed in with the new oil. I replaced the oil filter and filled it with new 5W-30 Mobile 1 high mileage synthetic oil. It fired right up again and the loud ticking sound was still there. Oil pressure was good I let it idle for a few minutes and the ticking got a little bit quieter but, still loud. Check engine light was on and the codes were P0300 and P0200. I hooked up a Noid light to each injectors wiring harness at idle and every one was firing. I removed the fuel injectors and cleaned them, did OHM test on each one and all of them had consistent readings. I do not know what else to do from here? Any help, direction, or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to read this.

My truck has 245,000 miles on the original engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Indeed a proper drain tap or drain valve with adapter that has a hose on it that opens up the valve as the adapter goes on is a slick setup and have that for certain highway tractors etc and other equipment that came from the factory with a tap but this L8T is pretty darned good other than me doing it on the floor and easy to touch hot exhaust and am not as agile as I used to be !. If I really want to pull a hot filter on an engine I will use an insulated set of thick neoprene gauntlet gloves but I am not in the hurry I used to need to be so things are done more relaxed and in theory somewhat safer ... I think LOL.    And as I mentioned the unique shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers, while they might not work as well as an offset pour spout container for some awkward engine location applications, they are working a lot better with my Lisle funnel kit because of how they prop up on all four corners when upside down resting on the rim of the funnel where the typical quart container would never stay put without holding onto it. 
    • Well, I just hit 100K a few weeks back, and I can honestly say I have not had any major issues with my '21 5.3 Crew cab.  I have done most routine maintenance, oil changes, air filter, tire rotations, and a transmission drain and filter change (not even a full flush).  A couple of months ago, I started experiencing the dreaded CLUNK when coming to a stop, sometimes hard enough to literally push the truck forward! After researching here and in other forums/youtube videos, etc, I was thinking it's the slip yoke. I finally had a chance to take it to my local mechanic today, and he was not able to recreate the issue.  Amazing, since it does it nearly every time I drive.  He also said he can't simply grease my slip yoke/driveshaft splines, because I have a 1 piece driveshaft.  I am not sure what else I can do.  Has anyone else had this issue or have any idea what else it could be?
    • This is where the Fumoto drain valve comes in handy.  No mess and able to change oil hot, like right off the interstate hot.  Flows nice and you can direct it into a container. As for the oil filter, I use an old dixie cup or plastic one from McDonalds. It contains the oil as you pull the filter down and not all over your hand.
    • Well, if it did change from lifters to rocker arms, at least it would be easier to fix as they fail.
    • Doesn't hurt to try.  It's my understanding that you have to run it at least 4 or 5 oil changes for things to get clean.  Think about it, your engine didn't get dirty in just an oil change so over time it will slowly clean. It's the safest way to do it and not have seal issues.      I remember  a product that came out a long time ago, AutoRX, it was an additive you put in the oil and then drove for 3k miles. Some saw improvements and some didn't. It was suggested to use a non synthetic with it at the time. Same observation, use a couple oil changes and give it time to work. It also stated it worked best if you could drive on trips to keep the oil hot.  I'm sure if you ask AI it could tell you all about it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...