Truck runs like crap

WelderGC · June 14, 2021

Was driving down the highway, got off at the ramp, then my truck was shaking, wouldn’t idle and engine light was blinking. It is really hard starting now and runs like crap!

My truck has 109000 miles, receintly had condenser replaced, spark plugs and trans fluid replaced

codes are

P0106 and

P0300

appreciate any help!

HeySkippyDog · June 14, 2021

A friend of mine just had what you are describing. Had to have the fuel injectors removed, cleaned, and reinstalled. There may have also been a top top cleaning done.

If you idle your truck a lot, stop doing that.

JimCost2014 · June 14, 2021

4 minutes ago, WelderGC said:

Was driving down the highway, got off at the ramp, then my truck was shaking, wouldn’t idle and engine light was blinking. It is really hard starting now and runs like crap!

My truck has 109000 miles, receintly had condenser replaced, spark plugs and trans fluid replaced

codes are

P0106 and

P0300

appreciate any help!

Welcome to the site.

What Does P0106 Meaning?

Your car has a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor that communicates with your Power Control Module (PCM) in order to measure and control your engine’s load. Your PCM needs the data from your MAP in order to control several important components of your vehicle, including parts of your ECM and your fuel ratio. Typically, the MAP sensor should be telling your PCM that your manifold pressure is between 1 to 4.5 Volts depending on if your car is at idle or at open throttle. Code P0106 is triggered when your PCM sees that the voltage pertaining to the manifold pressure is moving up and down in an erratic way, and also doesn’t see any corresponding change in engine load.

What Are the Symptoms of Code P0106?

Check engine light
Rough running engine
Excessive smoke from exhaust
Lower fuel economy
Erratic acceleration
Poor idle

What Causes Code P0106?

Faulty MAP sensor
Faulty MAP sensor wiring
Leaks in air intake system
Open/Short in wiring for MAP sensor
MAP sensor affected by water or dirt

JimCost2014 · June 14, 2021

Part 2:

P0300 Possible Causes

What does this mean?

Faulty spark plug (s)
Faulty ignition coil (s)
Clogged or faulty fuel injector (s)
Intake air leak
Fuel injectors harness is open or shorted
Fuel Injectors circuit poor electrical connection
Ignition coils harness is open or shorted
Ignition coils circuit poor electrical connection
Insufficient cylinders compression
Incorrect fuel pressure
P0300 Meaning
The Engine Control Module (ECM) uses information from the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor to determine when an engine cylinder misfire is occurring. By monitoring variations in the crankshaft rotation speed for each cylinder, the ECM can detect individual cylinder misfire events.
Extreme cylinder misfire events can cause catalytic converter damage. The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) will flash when the conditions for catalytic converter damage are present. The Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) P0301 through P0306 (or P0301 through P0308) correspond to cylinders 1 through 6 (or 1 through 8). When the ECM detects that one or more specific cylinders are misfiring, the DTC for the respective misfiring cylinder will set, and up to 2 of the corresponding fuel injectors are disabled for a minimum of 30 s. The ECM will then re-enable the fuel injector and, after approximately 200 engine revolutions, will determine if the misfire is still present. If the misfire is still present, the ECM will disable the fuel injector again repeating the process. If the misfire is not present, the fuel injector will remain enabled by the ECM. In Spark Ignition Direct Injection (SIDI) system applications, if a fuel injector fault DTC is set during a misfire event, the ECM will not re-enable the injector.

WelderGC · June 14, 2021

Where do I start? I made sure the map was plugged in, checked to make sure all the plug wires were connected. Everything looks okay.

what’s next?

do I take the valve covers off and check the springs or have it towed to the stealer?

JimCost2014 · June 14, 2021

36 minutes ago, WelderGC said:

Where do I start? I made sure the map was plugged in, checked to make sure all the plug wires were connected. Everything looks okay.

what’s next?

do I take the valve covers off and check the springs or have it towed to the stealer?

When the push rod broke on cylinder #4, in my 2016, it was shaking violently, and was on the verge of not running at all.

Flashing CEL and was in limp mode, so it was loaded on a flat bed and taken in.

Not saying that you have had that kind of failure (could also be a collapsed lifter), but it is not good to drive them with the flashing CEL (if constant) and running like it is.

Maybe valve covers off is not a bad idea, you can also check to make sure your coil packs look good, and the plug wires are on properly.

ftwhite · June 15, 2021

Start with the easy/cheap stuff: check for vacuum leaks, check your plugs and wires, check your coils. If you had your plugs replaced, maybe a wire (or several) were damaged when removed. The factory wires get really fragile in old age. Try new ones.

Replace your MAP sensor. They are not too expensive, and can certainly fail with age.

If all else fails, many good mechanics will have lower diagnostic prices than the dealer, so double check.

Hope that helps. Good luck.

jrabenaldt · June 15, 2021

On 6/13/2021 at 9:23 PM, JimCost2014 said:

When the push rod broke on cylinder #4, in my 2016, it was shaking violently, and was on the verge of not running at all.

Flashing CEL and was in limp mode, so it was loaded on a flat bed and taken in.

Not saying that you have had that kind of failure (could also be a collapsed lifter), but it is not good to drive them with the flashing CEL (if constant) and running like it is.

Maybe valve covers off is not a bad idea, you can also check to make sure your coil packs look good, and the plug wires are on properly.

I hate to say it but that's exactly what mine did. Fuel injectors, lifters, VLOM and new pushrod later it runs perfectly...

WelderGC · June 17, 2021

Got the word from the dealer.

fuel injector leak caused a blow by on #5.
0 compression on #5

recommend engine replacement.

no estimate yet.

damn.

WelderGC · June 17, 2021

Motor remove and replace $14,000

ouch

evad · June 17, 2021

14,000 ? wtf

BlancoSilverado · June 17, 2021

Question, how can a faulty injector gernade a motor on de-acceleration? I can understand that it might pour fuel in and take the cats out and possibly hydrolock the motor and take it out in that way(bending a rod).

$14k for a motor, seems extremely excessive for this truck. i would get another quote. my buddy had the local dealer do his 2006 5.3 for only 6K (installed), new long block, i understand they are different motors but ****** thats high.

cfell · June 18, 2021

A new “crate” motor can be cheaper.. a junkyard one, rebuilt would be a much cheaper option. Dealer work is expensive.. MIGHT be guaranteed across the US.

there isn’t enough info about the problem to help. I.E.; was it “tuned”. Did the spark plug break inside the engine?, what is causing the one cylinder issue, is it a bent valve or lifter? Did something get dropped into the intake during recent work?

At minimum a borescope of the suspect cylinder is in order. Too much to type…

WelderGC · June 19, 2021

The truck is completely stock. Also I do not beat the truck. The dealer told me that they do not rebuild motors anymore because the labor cost equals the new motor price. I think it must be just the rings because the block is cast and so are the pistons.
i got a quote from another shop, and it wasn’t much different for a Jasper motor.
Just a big shock for a truck that was running great. I did have to add oil between the last oil change, but I just figured they didn’t fill it up all the way.
But never gave me a check engine light until it did.

The motor R&R is about 12,500, there is another line that is leaking that’s an additional 500, then tax. Bringing it to 14,000

JimCost2014 · June 19, 2021

16 minutes ago, WelderGC said:

The truck is completely stock. Also I do not beat the truck. The dealer told me that they do not rebuild motors anymore because the labor cost equals the new motor price. I think it must be just the rings because the block is cast and so are the pistons.
i got a quote from another shop, and it wasn’t much different for a Jasper motor.
Just a big shock for a truck that was running great. I did have to add oil between the last oil change, but I just figured they didn’t fill it up all the way.
But never gave me a check engine light until it did.

The motor R&R is about 12,500, there is another line that is leaking that’s an additional 500, then tax. Bringing it to 14,000

With used truck prices so high right now, ask them how much they would buy it from you for.

May be cheaper just to unload it.