Jump to content

  • Sign up for FREE! Become a GM-Trucks.com Member Today!

    In 20 seconds you can become part of the worlds largest and oldest community discussing General Motors, Chevrolet and GMC branded pickups, crossovers, and SUVs. From buying research to owner support, join 1.5 MILLION GM Truck Enthusiasts every month who use GM-Trucks.com as a daily part of their ownership experience. 

2015 Silverado ltz 5.3 v8 Blower Motor

Demonetized Content
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Content

    • GrumpyYoungMan
      Electrical Gremlins in Gauges and Locks and more!
      By GrumpyYoungMan
      Hello all!  I am hoping for a little help to get me started in the right direction.
       
      My work truck is a 2011 GMC Sierra 2500HD Diesel, and I apologies in advance for the length of this post!
       
      In the summer I started having issues with my truck batteries draining completely while parked.  Anytime I didn't drive it for a few days, dead.  Batteries tested as needing replacement (they were 9 years old).  Replaced both batteries and back to life!  Fast forward several months and I thought I had the same issue, dead batteries and the truck remotes wouldn't unlock the doors.  Unlucky me, somebody also tried to steal the truck a bit before this and punched out the lock so I couldn't get in.  Quick call to the tow truck and the door was unlocked.  I popped the key into the ignition and it started right up so I guess the batteries weren't dead?  At the time I thought that was strange but the remote door locks were working again and I headed off to buy a new lock cylinder and batteries for the Fobs.  I wondered at this time if the issue was the non-stop rain we were having.  I noticed that the drivers side rear passenger seat belt was wet when I unrolled it and thought there may be water getting into the truck somehow, but the headliner looks dry.
       
      I really should have installed the cylinder but didn't because, well, it was raining and I didn't have a garage to work in.  During these few weeks the door worked just fine most of the time.  At times it seemed like the truck just wouldn't wake up until I had pressed the FOB enough times and uttered a curse or two, and then it happened again.  Locked out.  Called the tow truck again and got the doors unlocked.   Truck starts but this time the remote unlock doesn't come back to life.  I sucked it up and installed the new lock cylinder in the pouring rain so at least I could lock the doors.  At this time I started getting messages through the DIC about the TPMS needing servicing.
       
      I drove randomly for the next month and a half without getting the situation fixed due to...life happening fast and hard.  Then I noticed that while I was driving the gauges looked like the reset.  Everything dropped to zero and the lights for the airbags, check engine etc lit up.  I got messages across the DIC to have the air bags and 4x4 system serviced, and the radio went dark.  Within a second or two the gauges came back to life and the radio restarted and all went back to normal.  I checked the battery terminals to make sure they were clean and tight then wrote it off to a bad road and didn't think more of it.  I clipped off the wiring for the camper harness as I noticed it was corroded and potentially arcing, and I pulled the fuse on the obstruction system (parking sensors) because of error codes for an open ground and bad sensor.  (I don't use the system anyway because of hitches and trailering)
       
      Over the last 3 weeks the gauges have started to reset themselves more and more frequently while driving, and once the engine didn't shut down when I turned and removed the key.  I quickly put the key back in, gave it a quick turn on and off and the truck shut down.  I have had the batteries die twice in that time and I don't know if it was my toddler playing with the cab lights or something else.
       
      As of yesterday the gauges and radio will only work when the truck initially starts.  After the start they will operate for a few seconds then warning lights galore and gauges drop to zero.  Radio goes dark, but HVAC stays on.  Dash remains lit up and DIC works but the transmission selector doesn't show what gear the truck is in.  Turn indicators will illuminate but not flash.  Once even with the truck off and the key out the HVAC stayed on and the blower kept running.  Buttons on the climate control panel were nonresponsive so I had to pull and replace the fuse on the HVAC.
       
      I know that the truck will need to go and get professionally assessed, however I am hoping for a little guidance as to what the issue(s) could be.  Given the holidays and weather, getting an appointment to get the truck checked over hasn't been easy and I want to make sure I get it into the right type of shop.
       
      Any guidance or insight is appreciated.  Again, sorry for the rambling nature of the post.
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
    • DoErUp
      04 Chevy, blower motor doesn't work on 5 after replacing blower motor kit
      By DoErUp
      Hey all,
      I recently had my blower stop working on 1, then on all speeds. Figured it was the resistor pack since I had the same issue a couple of years ago so i pulled it out to check, and found one of the pins in the resistor pack had completely melted both the male and female ends. Following a forum post from somewhere I ordered a full blower motor kit (motor/resistor pack/ new connector and partial harness) and installed it today. The blower now works like it should, except when set to 5 it shuts off. It does click audibly when the dial is set to 5, which i remember reading is proper operation, but the motor does not move.
       
      Just wondering where I should start looking. I'm guessing either one of the connections I made on the new harness isn't good enough (can't make enough sense of the wiring diagrams to see which is 5), or rockauto gave me a bad resistor.
    • Elijah Paul
      Blower Motor housing assembly
      By Elijah Paul
      hi everyone,
       
      ive looked high and low with no luck, so apologies of this is directly cited somewhere.

      The plastic grooves/housing where the blower motor twists into place under the glove box, are brittle and broken. Therefore, my blower fan will not stay in place.
       
      Is that plastic housing or assembly core sold as a stand alone part? Trying to figure out a way to get the blower motor secured without duct tape or something else.
       
      thanks!
    • Turf Nation
      2001 silverado 1500 4x4 HVAC problem
      By Turf Nation
      I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500 4 x 4 my AC blows hot the compressor comes on but shuts off repeatedly.Anyone have any idea what that could be?
    • Jantrl
      2004 GMC Sierra Door Blend Actuator Help
      By Jantrl
      My AC only blows cold on the driver's side. The passenger kicks out some heat. Here's where I am so far:
       
      I noticed no movement from the passenger side actuator. I recalibrated the system, no improvement.
       
      Went ahead and replaced the passenger side door blend actuator. That was not fun to say the least. Did it by removing the passenger side airbag, vent and dropped the glovebox.
       
      That didn't fix it. I noticed however that the white dial went from the center position to the right. It seems to be stuck there no matter what I do with the climate control dial. I recalibrated the system again and nothing.
       
      I'm at a loss with what to do next. Could the terminal cable be bad? I'm not sure where those wires lead. Any guidance is appreciated. 
       
      I bought the new actuator from Oreilly. They had a 65 dollar one and a 140 dollar version, both from Dorman. The salesman could not tell any difference between the two, so I opted for the 65 dollar one. The terminal connection was exactly the same on both. A mystery to me. I hope to god that one is correct and the other isn't.
       
      One more thing to note...When I bought the truck used, the air blew cold on both sides (Florida purchase). When I got it up to Atlanta, there was not heat. I took it to a mechanic who discovered the heater core was disconnected (bypassed). We went ahead and connected it to see if it leaked. No leaks. So we just hooked it back up. Heat worked great. The passenger AC, as noted, stopped working. Perhaps there's a connection there.
       
      The truck has 80k miles and is a V6.
       
      Thank you.
       

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    242k
    Total Topics
    1.4m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    309,303
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Krystal Durden
    Newest Member
    Krystal Durden
    Joined


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.

  I accept