Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

          Hi I am new here so I'm not sure if I'm posting this in the correct spot, but I'm having big electrical problems with my 2018 GMC Sierra 1500. it started about 1.5 weeks ago, I turned my truck on one cold morning(-15C) and my speakers were making crackling noises with no music coming out at all, no door chimes or signals either. I noticed my volts were around 15.5-16, but it never went over 16. the music would come back on when I turned the engine off and just had it on ACC mode. I called my mechanic and he told me it was probably my alternator, so I paid to Get that replaced, he returned it and nothing changed. still having the exact same problems. I called him again and he took it back in and looked at it some more. The speakers now crackle for the first 5ish minutes of the vehicle turning on, and then eventually smooth out as the volts settle down to around 14.3V. I put in all new speakers around the truck about 6 months ago, with an Amp and subwoofer, but I am just now experiencing problems with it. I tried taking the power cable off of the amp, and its still doing it to the door speakers and tweeters. I am now out $1100 and still having this issue, if ANYONE could give me some advice or something I could try that would be awesome,  

 

Thanks!

Posted

My 2008 has an aftermarket stereo, so I had to use a special adapter module, so that the truck can "talk" to the stereo. Its not like the old school stereo systems that just needed power, ground, and speakers. I would assume that one of the aftermarket or OEM stereo electrical boxes on your rig is defective. You may want to make sure that none of your speaker wires are shorted, or maybe fell off one of the speakers. As for the alternator, I would take it back and ask him to replace it with the original one. He is the one that suggested that the part was bad, and he was wrong. So why should you have to pay for his incompetence? Once he installed it and found that the problem was still there, then he should have removed it right then and there before even giving the truck back.

Posted

Did you have the Bose system?  You may need to cut the wires for the anc

Posted
6 minutes ago, m3n00b said:

Did you have the Bose system?  You may need to cut the wires for the anc

I did not have the Bose system

Posted
38 minutes ago, Supreme Pizza said:

My 2008 has an aftermarket stereo, so I had to use a special adapter module, so that the truck can "talk" to the stereo. Its not like the old school stereo systems that just needed power, ground, and speakers. I would assume that one of the aftermarket or OEM stereo electrical boxes on your rig is defective. You may want to make sure that none of your speaker wires are shorted, or maybe fell off one of the speakers. As for the alternator, I would take it back and ask him to replace it with the original one. He is the one that suggested that the part was bad, and he was wrong. So why should you have to pay for his incompetence? Once he installed it and found that the problem was still there, then he should have removed it right then and there before even giving the truck back.

Hmmmm i just noticed that my back right speaker has no audio coming out of it, i’ll take the panel off and investigate that, thank you!

Posted

UPDATE:

 

I took off the door panel, checked the rear passenger speaker to see if the wires were shorting out, but everything was connected fine. It had no power going to those wires though. I went and got my battery tested at Canadian Tire and they said its a good battery. My mechanic is now thinking its the Head unit, and I know how expensive those are so I'm really hoping its not. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I agree with Tim.  As tech heavy as engines are these days, no way I’d be an early buyer of the new 6.6.  Of course, I bought my ‘26 Denali w/the 6.2 after dumping my Tundra with it’s defective 3.5 liter imploding engine disaster, so I’m a little gun-shy.  That said, my 6.2 has been rock solid.  I don’t drive it like I do my BMW Z4 M40i, but I don’t baby it either.  I got a V8 for a reason.  But I’m averaging 18 around town and 22 highway.  I have seen 24 highway as well when I wasn’t loaded up heavy.  Considering my Tundra with the twin turbo V6 only got 14.5 in town and 17 on the road, I’ll take the 6.2 all day, every day.  If I were you, I’d grab a ‘26 while you can.  Inventories are probably gonna start dropping and I’ll bet the deals will start looking sweeter as well.
    • I am curious if anyone has figured out a way to add an hard button AUX or 360 Camera switch to the center row of switches. I have a 2021 AT4, and want to split the hill decent button and add a 360 camera button so that you don't have to go into the center display and locate the camera functionality, etc...   My father's 2024 Yukon XL AT4 and it has a hard button, see below. I found this thread on the Yukons, but it seems like there may not be a part number for the 2021 sierras. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/255339-adding-hard-button-for-camera-on-2021/ Anyone else figured this out. Seems like it would need to be a custom switch!   I am getting ready to install the auto stop/start eliminator, so would be nice to knock them out at once.     Upvote1Downvote0Go to comments
    • Looks like the entire state is burning. 😬
    • Through the years it hasn't been my typical method as I tried to drop oil on an engine that was hot from having been worked, however that was not always practical and had to fire up a unit and let it warm up reasonably well and drop the oil when I had the time to do it but am referring to not only vehicles but a variety of farm equipment and highway tractors etc. However on a vehicle where one is crawling under it and the exhaust is nearby to ones body and if wanting to pull the plug without danger of being hit with boiling hot oil or attempting to remove a HOT oil filter, its sure safer and easier to not have everything smoking hot and can remove the filter right away when under the vehicle and let it all drain. Of course its not the end of the world if a bit of oil stays in the engine that might have eventually found its way out, I like to get out as much as possible but any oil changes that take place in shops would rarely be sitting around for very long at all before the plug is thrown back in and filter slapped on and oil poured in and sent out the door quick like. There would be very little time spent ( assuming they even did it ) in starting the engine with oil to fill the filter, then waiting to verify the level on the stick. A good reason to check ones oil level shortly after a shop changed the oil on a vehicle just to make sure its correct and to look under for any oil around the drain plug or filter. 
    • Cool to see another Vermonter!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...