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Posted

Before I tested it I removed the spoiler, cleaned it up and did it right. In theory it could work for the most part. Just hard to do and look good…(especially since it’s my wife’s truck)…..

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  • 3 months later...
Posted

I recently sealed my cracked, leaking rear slider. First, I took the headliner loose to about the middle of the cab. Then, I removed the spoiler and cleaned the roof and window frame with compressed air, water and then rubbing alcohol. I then applied AC Delco seam sealer along the top of the window frame all across. Let that sit for a day and then put 3M strip caulk on every bolt mounting surface and the 4 bolt holes on the ends. Once the spoiler was in place and nuts and bolts tightened, there was strip caulk sealing each side of every bolt and nut, as well as the 2 alignment pins. We've had some rain since and so far it is holding well. It wasn't a bad ordeal, but not something I want or will do on a regular basis. Too many other other choices of trucks to deal with this poor engineering, design and suppliers. Short of going to a glass company or body shop and having the fixed glass installed, this is good way to try to stop the leak yourself without going to the dealer and the aggravation of such. YMMV. 

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  • 1 month later...
Posted

I think I've got most of it figured out,  but on the 3m strips, do you completely cover the holes in the body then punch the spoiler bolts through it, or form the strips around the holes?

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I know this is an old thread but maybe the author still looks at it.  Where did you make the little tape dams at on the window? and did you have to torque the spoiler bolts down? if so do you remember the torque ratings?  Plan on trying this soon hopefully it goes smooth

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 3/27/2024 at 11:51 AM, Stiffler said:

I know this is an old thread but maybe the author still looks at it.  Where did you make the little tape dams at on the window? and did you have to torque the spoiler bolts down? if so do you remember the torque ratings?  Plan on trying this soon hopefully it goes smooth

Tape dam is because the sealer runs.  You don't have to torque them, just nice and snug.   And put sealer around the studs that stick through the holes. 

  • 6 months later...
Posted

Posted in the leak thread, but I did this method today on my ‘24 Ultimate after it leaked at 1,700 miles. Every penetration under the spoiler got 3m seam sealer as well as all the clips, fasteners, and grommets. This worked like a charm on my ‘23 AT4 as well. 

Posted
19 hours ago, Jglew82 said:

Posted in the leak thread, but I did this method today on my ‘24 Ultimate after it leaked at 1,700 miles. Every penetration under the spoiler got 3m seam sealer as well as all the clips, fasteners, and grommets. This worked like a charm on my ‘23 AT4 as well. 

 

Do you garage your truck at your house? I do and have not yet experienced this on my 24 SLT. I had hoped it was fixed  by now. I'm at about 5K miles, but it has also been one of the driest 6 months on record here in Virginia.

Posted
5 hours ago, DubVBenz said:

 

Do you garage your truck at your house? I do and have not yet experienced this on my 24 SLT. I had hoped it was fixed  by now. I'm at about 5K miles, but it has also been one of the driest 6 months on record here in Virginia.

Yes - always garaged at home. Noticed the leak leaving from work after it rained. 

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  • 4 months later...
Posted (edited)

Just did this myself. I tried sealing around the spoiler first and it definitely slowed it down, but there was still a slight leak. Not a soaked headliner like it was before the fix but enough I didn't want to leave it. Watched the video on the first paged for the headliner removal. There was two extended mounts for the headliner which I didn't see in the video so thought I was missing something but you just gotta pull a little harder and it'll pull off the glue and you can drop the back half of the headliner. Those were located next to the rear window.

 

Definitely can do it without pulling the whole thing out. I also used the 3M strip caulk around every hole for the spoiler. Just did it yesterday so letting it sit for the weekend then I'll wash my truck and see what happens. All in all, took me maybe 3-4 hours but let the sealant sit for an hour before pulling the tape out and putting the spoiler back on and putting my truck back together. Didn't take as long as I was expecting. 

20250502_144900.jpg

Edited by Josh_166
Added picture.
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  • 3 months later...
Posted

So I followed these steps a couple weeks ago. The One difference was butyl rope instead of strip caulk. Thought it was all good. Went through the carwash a couple times and  saw no signs of leaking.
 

I tried a different wash today and saw a huge wet spot on the driver side and some visible water in the corner. I used to only see some traces on the below window channel.  This was way worse than before.
 

1 thing that I was concerned about as I was starting was. My truck was backed in the driveway so it was slanted nose down. But I thought the sealant touched both sides of the crease well. 

 

My other thought is I probably cranked on the bolts too much but I had butyl rope on both the studs and bolts. 
 

Wondering which would be more likely to cause the headliner to be more wet than before I tried to fix the leak?
 


 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Has anyone here had their slider continue to leak AFTER the TSB sealing by a dealer?  Fighting GM about the cost of a replacement slider now that its leaking again since they've already worked on it once before.  

Posted
On 8/5/2025 at 9:18 PM, ReggieH said:

So I followed these steps a couple weeks ago. The One difference was butyl rope instead of strip caulk. Thought it was all good. Went through the carwash a couple times and  saw no signs of leaking.
 

I tried a different wash today and saw a huge wet spot on the driver side and some visible water in the corner. I used to only see some traces on the below window channel.  This was way worse than before.
 

1 thing that I was concerned about as I was starting was. My truck was backed in the driveway so it was slanted nose down. But I thought the sealant touched both sides of the crease well. 

 

My other thought is I probably cranked on the bolts too much but I had butyl rope on both the studs and bolts. 
 

Wondering which would be more likely to cause the headliner to be more wet than before I tried to fix the leak?
 


 

Did you apply sealer to the top of the actual window or just seal the spoiler? You must do it all and don’t spare the sealer. Especially on the very ends. Both of my trucks had minimal sealer on the right side. I actually had to redo the right on my personal truck. The factory had almost none and I didn’t pour (slang) in enough.

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