Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Been chasing a very pronounced dash rattle directly behind the cluster  for months. Almost Removed the entire dash and no luck. The interweb didn’t help much, never seen this before. 
 

just earlier I removed the windshield wipers and plastic cover and found a really loose bolt. Under the wiper motor. Not tight at all. Had to use the impact because it kept spinning I assume there’s a nut on the other side. Now it’s tight. My cabin is now RATTLE FREE. 2019 CC z71 58k miles. 

1BE224BC-17A3-4CA4-B7E0-B9EE7ECD36C1.jpeg

Edited by 11bravoZ71
  • Like 7
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

Good job finding it.  Rattles/creaks/squeaks are the worst.

 

In case somebody searches "rattle", I had one that drove me nuts.  Thought it was the dash and so did the dealer, so they took it damn near apart.  You could hear it better but it wasn't in the dash.  It ended up being a wiring harness rubbing on the transmission bell housing.  10 minute fix.  I understand after they found it, it went upstream to GM and they changed the manufacturing process so it wouldn't happen to others.  Who knows if that happened though.

 

Edited by cltsig
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Absolutely it’s always great to post these finds for the next person. This rattle almost  made want to trade this in lol. Thats how bad it was. Other then my 8speed reverse clunk hoping warranty fixes it. I would say having a permanent rattle that cannot he found is worse.  I took apart almost everything and zip tied this and taped that etc. went underneath the dash taped a lot of wires etcc…. I even thought it was shocks. Rattles are evil and serve no purpose.  

Edited by 11bravoZ71
  • Like 2
  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 1/24/2022 at 11:01 PM, 11bravoZ71 said:

Been chasing a very pronounced dash rattle directly behind the cluster  for months. Almost Removed the entire dash and no luck. The interweb didn’t help much, never seen this before. 
 

just earlier I removed the windshield wipers and plastic cover and found a really loose bolt. Under the wiper motor. Not tight at all. Had to use the impact because it kept spinning I assume there’s a nut on the other side. Now it’s tight. My cabin is now RATTLE FREE. 2019 CC z71 58k miles. 

1BE224BC-17A3-4CA4-B7E0-B9EE7ECD36C1.jpeg

Did it almost sound like the rattle was tapping on the windshield?

Posted
4 hours ago, RCMH said:

Did it almost sound like the rattle was tapping on the windshield?

 

Bravo hasn't been online for 10 months.  This is an old thread.  I wouldn't hold your breath for a reply.

Posted
23 minutes ago, MrMagloo said:

 

Bravo hasn't been online for 10 months.  This is an old thread.  I wouldn't hold your breath for a reply.

nothing wrong with bringing up old threads if it's a topic that doesn't get covered a lot. Also, a lot of these people haven't sold their vehicle, so they still remain on the forum. Maybe a year from now this, or my experience will help someone else.

 

 

Here's my story that happened last week:

I took my 3.0 duramax to get trans, brakes, and coolant serviced at 103k miles. While it was there, the dealer mentioned a Nox sensor issue that i OK'd to replace. When I got it back, I heard a rattle that seems like it was under my dash, behind the glove compartment. After it lasted a few days and drove me bonkers, I did a search to look for anyone else that had a similar issue. I then thought that since they were around my exhaust, I'd look there. Sure enough, tracing the new NOx sensor back, I found the wiring harness had plastic circular clips to hold it in place, but some were off and hitting against the frame. It was so weird for something that far under the car to cause a noise that sounded like it came from my dash. I lucked out that between me thinking this was an area the dealer touched, and the fact that everything was easily seen under the truck, made this doable. I was already researching from people doing stereo things how to take apart my dash as a worse case scenario. If things got to that point, i may have taken it back to the dealership, but it's hard for me to part with my vehicle, especially since it's no longer under warrantee. Troubleshooting and rental car adds up fast. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, MrMagloo said:

 

Bravo hasn't been online for 10 months.  This is an old thread.  I wouldn't hold your breath for a reply.

Why does there always have to be one like you, comes naturally? Are the thread monitor? “OLD THREAD”…. Aren’t there threads on here where people ask questions about much older trucks? What are they supposed to do, not ask since it’s been covered 10 years ago? 

Edited by RCMH
Response
  • Like 2
Posted
9 minutes ago, SC4R3C120W said:

nothing wrong with bringing up old threads if it's a topic that doesn't get covered a lot. Also, a lot of these people haven't sold their vehicle, so they still remain on the forum. Maybe a year from now this, or my experience will help someone else.

 

 

Here's my story that happened last week:

I took my 3.0 duramax to get trans, brakes, and coolant serviced at 103k miles. While it was there, the dealer mentioned a Nox sensor issue that i OK'd to replace. When I got it back, I heard a rattle that seems like it was under my dash, behind the glove compartment. After it lasted a few days and drove me bonkers, I did a search to look for anyone else that had a similar issue. I then thought that since they were around my exhaust, I'd look there. Sure enough, tracing the new NOx sensor back, I found the wiring harness had plastic circular clips to hold it in place, but some were off and hitting against the frame. It was so weird for something that far under the car to cause a noise that sounded like it came from my dash. I lucked out that between me thinking this was an area the dealer touched, and the fact that everything was easily seen under the truck, made this doable. I was already researching from people doing stereo things how to take apart my dash as a worse case scenario. If things got to that point, i may have taken it back to the dealership, but it's hard for me to part with my vehicle, especially since it's no longer under warrantee. Troubleshooting and rental car adds up fast. 

Thanks for the intelligent and mature response. 

  • Like 1
  • 10 months later...
Posted

Forewarning: Long post. Sorry.

 

I bought a 2024 Chevy Silverado LT 1500 4x4 in July. It had 5,700 miles on it when I bought it. The silence inside and quiet smooth ride were an answer to a prayer.

 

I took it into the dealership for a warranty oil change yesterday. It took hours! When it was ready for me to pick it up, I was told that a recall on the Serial Data Gateway Module had also been taken care of.

 

From what I've found online, the Serial Data Gateway Module is located way up under the dash and it's difficult to access.

 

I drove to run errands afterwards and there is now clicking and popping noises coming from the front dash. The brake pedal squeaks when I press it now and clicks when I let off of it. The gear shifter has a great deal of slack when in D and also a dull knock sound with that slack movement. The slack is significant enough that the shifter bounces when I drive over the groves in the center line of the road making the turn onto my driveway. This is something I have done daily since I got the truck in July and the shifter never bounced until after getting it back from the service department at the dealership yesterday.

 

I drive by myself with no radio on, and I'm a hypervigilant Veteran, so I have complete confidence the sounds were not there before taking it in for service.

 

Additionally, the steering wheel is slightly off center now, the airbag compartment in the center of the steering wheel can be physically moved side to side and top to bottom, and when it park, the steering wheel tilts off center to the left each time. I try to straighten it back to center, but it turns back to the left until I overcompensate to the right in order to get it to go back to center. This happens every single time I park now, regardless of where I park. Definitely not something that was happening before yesterday. I'm sure of this because I have several hours each day where it is necessary for me to sit parked and I prop my phone on the steering wheel. I 100% know for a fact that the steering wheel was straight and would stay straight when parking before yesterday.

 

Today, I went back to the dealership. I was told they didn't do anything to reprogram the Serial Data Gateway Module except plug in a cord and push buttons on the handheld screen, that the clicks and popping sounds I'm hearing now are normal, that the one associated with the brake pedal is the electric brakes and the clicking when I take my foot off the pedal should be happening, that the squeaking when pressing the brake pedal is normal, that all of these clicks and popping noises were happening before (they weren't), that I just didn't notice them, and that they didn't touch the steering wheel at all. There were residue marks on the steering wheel that were consistent with the size of fingers. Residue of palm prints on the door. Drops of something on the seat that left a white residue when I tried to clean it off. Pry maks from a tool on the plastic covers on the back of the steering wheel where you access the bolts to remove the airbag compartment. Drops of something on the plastic dash trim behind the steering wheel that had hardened by yesterday afternoon and had to be scraped off, and the hood of my truck was covered in some relatively large "drops" of a substance that looks like it was splattered across the truck. It hardened and didn't come off by trying to wipe it off with a cloth. When I washed it at the car wash, those spots repelled the water while the area with no splatter drops stayed wet. 

 

By this evening, there is now a rattle coming from somewhere behind the dash and I can't figure out where. And the road noise is now very noticeable. I can't describe accurately enough how hypervigilante I am about noises. They are driving me crazy, especially when I know they weren't happening before yesterday.

 

I mostly needed to vent, but if anyone has any advice, I would greatly appreciate it.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Contact GM.  I did lemon law in Texas for another manufacturer.., had to go to arbitration.. but they fixed it.

Edited by cfell
  • 7 months later...
Posted

Hello all. I dealt with a dash rattle for months and ripped almost the entire thing apart with no luck. I searched along the firewall in the engine compartment as some others suggested and FINALLY located the source. There was a vertical bracket near the battery. The 13 mm nut and washer were loose I tightened them and problem solved. It is amazing the sound resonates into the dash like that. Hope this helps others. 

Posted
9 minutes ago, BEHUDSON said:

Hello all. I dealt with a dash rattle for months and ripped almost the entire thing apart with no luck. I searched along the firewall in the engine compartment as some others suggested and FINALLY located the source. There was a vertical bracket near the battery. The 13 mm nut and washer were loose I tightened them and problem solved. It is amazing the sound resonates into the dash like that. Hope this helps others. 

Thanks for the response and glad you found yours. I finally decided to trade it almost a year ago. Several long stories that involved the service department where I purchased it. When I bought it in 2021  shortly after it had a wiring harness issue and that was the beginning of the end due inept “technicians.” Even the salesman gave me the “you didn’t hear this from me” speech and told me all the certified technicians left for another dealership. 

  • 10 months later...
Posted

I found the rattling on my 2016 Chevy 2500HD. It was near the passenger side.  I thought it was on the inside, it took the top dash off near the windshield and taped everything like others had said that stopped their noise, but it didn't stop mine. It was a squeaking noise, I was going insane, turn out it was under the hood, the brace on the passenger side, the screw was loose and squeaking like a MOFO. I tightened it up and, peace AT LAST. PS now my hair is growing back 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,924
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    KirbyCo
    Newest Member
    KirbyCo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,474 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I will be doing that for sure, but I need to solve who has/ where I can find a bidirectional scan tool that will support OBD 1.5. I'm kicking myself because I ebay'ed a Snap On MT2500 that I didn't think I'd ever need anymore. D'oh!! I'd rather not buy another, so I'll contact a few local shops to see if they have one and how much they'd want to do the procedure. I'd rather have the ability to do it myself... I wish there was a modern tool that could do it all, but I'd have no idea what to buy.   The theory with the pulled timing is that it mimics a rich condition. The delayed spark causes incomplete burn and the O2 sensor picks up low oxygen levels. That's interpreted as a rich condition so the PCM pulls fuel and that shows up in the deeply negative fuel trims.
    • An ultra wealthy man had the most beautiful daughter. But, there was a problem. Everything she touched would melt in her hands. No matter what, Metal, Wood, Stone. Anything she touched would melt. She could not feed herself. Because of this, men were afraid of her. Nobody would dare marry her. Her father was despaired. What could he do to help his daughter? He consulted doctors, scientists and anybody who could solve this problem. Finally one of them said, "If your daughter touches one thing that does not melt in her hands, she will be cured." He was overjoyed and came up with a plan. The next day, he held a competition. Any man who could bring his daughter an object that would not melt in her hands would be given billions of dollars to marry her. Three extremely intelligent and handsome young men took up the challenge. The first brought a very heavy steel rod, But alas, when the she touched it, it completely melted in a matter of seconds. He sadly went away. The second brought a beautiful diamond, knowing diamonds were one of the hardest substance in the world and would not melt. But alas, once she held it in her hand, it melted. He too was sent away disappointed. So now, there was one left He was very nervous & sweating. He approached the daughter & said, “put your hand in my pants pocket and feel what is in there." She did exactly what he asked. She felt something very hard. She held it in her hand, squeezing it as hard as she could. It did not melt & remained extremely hard. Her father was overjoyed. Everybody was overjoyed. She was finally cured. Nothing never, ever melted in her hand again. They married and they both lived happily ever after, raising a wonderful family. Question: What was in the the groom’s pants pocket??? Answer below ↓ M&Ms of course! They melt in your mouth, not in your hand. What on earth were you thinking?
    • There's a bunch of tea leaves that you've read, but in any case the delayed timing is unusual. Not sure how that relates to the rich at idle vs. 'normal' while driving.   If you're in this deep, might be worth investigating, and re-learning the sensor. What have you got to lose? Plus, it properly fixes the timing cover leak.
    • The only problem I have seen this cause is longer crank times. 
    • Injector is being sent off today for rebuild and I estimate I'll have it back in 10 days or so.   It may not be the injector...of course...now that I've torn down the intake again. But, let's rule out the injector and replace those spider legs that have been almost rubbed through.   The truck has always had negative timing and I'm reading "normal" timing at warm idle should be +16 or so. I'm negative 16 to 25 or more, and it's always been like that since I bought it.   A light turned on upstairs last night in the old noggin. Rare, I know...   This will be wild, if it turns out to be the cause!   In 2001, according to the old service documentation, the muffler was replaced. Why? I have no idea, it wouldn't have been rusted through by then. But they did a crappy job.   In 2019, another shop replaced it and noted the prior install was poorly done on the work order. "Exhaust system vibrates on crossmember". Except...I guess they just left it be? I believe the husband, the couple who were original owners, had passed by then. Maybe she said it's just not worth it to have the exhaust system fixed and declined repairs. Very few miles were driven between 2019 and 2025.   The exhaust system vibrates heavily on the crossmember and you can feel it and REALLY hear it, even today. Not always, but at idle, it gets going pretty good sometimes.   What if....   ....What if that's enough to trigger one or both of the knock sensors? Could it be tricking the sensors into sensing knock, so it's pulling timing aggressively? Pulling timing heavily means it's firing after the piston reaches full height which means incomplete burn which means the O2 sensor is sensing a rich condition, which means I've been chasing my tail, and what I thought was an inconsequential problem (janky exhaust) has been THE issue for this truck for 25 solid years?   That would be wild. Maybe it IS wild.   The service documentation thereafter, for years, shows visits for rough idle, replacing O2's, replacing the cat, replacing plugs and wires, a misfire condition, like they could never solve the issue. The injector has been replaced 4 times in 80k miles, that's just crazy.   The secondary theory....   The engine has clearly had a leak at the front seal for a very long time (the greasy trench...). I think the truck changed hands quickly ~2025 because there's Napa receipts from someone I don't recognize in the ownership history. They apparently replaced the timing cover seal, and they did a terrible job. There's RTV smeared all over and the leak I had reduced to a weep by snugging the front oil pan bolts is now a leak again.   HOWEVER....I read about replacing the crankshaft position sensor. Any time the ckp sensor is disturbed or timing cover is removed, the truck requires relearning, and that can only be done through a bi-directional scan tool. Skippy with the RTV probably didn't do the relearn procedure is my guess. His scan tool is lost in a pile of RTV goo somewhere.   So, it's very possible the sensor has been disturbed and the truck is just running on the old learn data but not setting a code for anything. The distributor has since been replaced and so has the camshaft position sensor, so all bets are off for that thing.   In the theme of one step forward, two steps back, I returned the accumulator for the AC. The gal I've been working with at O'Really's has been great. She refunded it under manufacturer's defect and we compared it to the replacement I ordered, and sure enough, the replacement is machined very differently (and a gauge actually fits on it!).   Got it home, installed it, started vacuuming it down.... and I couldn't get good vacuum.   The high side service port, where I replaced the old GM ball valve suspecting that was a source of the previous leak....well, I've clearly exposed whatever pre-existing crack in the line where the service port is welded, and made it much worse. Blessing in disguise? Except there goes another $25, now I'm waiting for a replacement AC line.   In 10-ish days ALL the parts will be here. Rebuilt injector, new exhaust system, new cat, new high pressure AC line.   Oh, did I mention the squeaking ISN'T coming from the AC pump? The truck still squeaks when started, and there were words after I started it with the new AC pump installed. But, there was more to replacing the AC pump for just a squeak. A truck with good working AC is something of value, for the comfort alone.   I've ordered a new harmonic balancer because, 30 years is a good run for one of those. Rule it out. The squeak may be something more sinister, though. I'm worried about that ckp sensor and if it was shimmed correctly, or if the timing set was installed correctly. The squeak may be coming from UNDER the timing cover.   At this point, once I get it put back together, I'm thinking I'll take a 50 mile victory lap and then promptly put it up for sale. This truck is cursed. Betty, from beyond the grave, doesn't want anyone messing with her Blazer. Or maybe she's getting revenge for 30 years of shop visits with that thing.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...