Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Any recamedations? facts, or fiction, Can 4oz to 20gals raise Cetane  5#s? Increase Lubricity? 

Is there a definate best one? Just in winter? Or all year long? 

  • Like 1
Posted

We use a diesel additive in the winter for our work trucks to help prevent fuel gelling but otherwise we don't use anything at all in the summer. It gets to -20F or colder every winter so that is why.

 

If I was to use a cleaner or extra stuff for lubrication every once in a while it would probably be something from Amsoil or Archoil products. A very well known Ford Powerstroke shop swears by archoil stuff on those trucks to help with those style injectors and I don't doubt his results.

  • Like 1
Posted
15 hours ago, rbdjr said:

Any recamedations? facts, or fiction, Can 4oz to 20gals raise Cetane  5#s? Increase Lubricity? 

Is there a definate best one? Just in winter? Or all year long? 

The problem with adding ( top treating ) fuel is that it doesn't properly mechanically mix in the tank. So you get blobs of additive not equally distributed in the cylinder at any given time.

 

Lubrications Engineers Full Torque , has a cetane booster that I was able to test a few years back independently and see it chemically mix to a degree top treated.  It comes in winter and summer blends. 

 

Ideally run a fully formulated racked in fuel and appropriate additives. If you live in a colder area like Cameron up in MN your pump fuel is going to be cut with flow improvers AND #1 diesel before it gets too cold. However most pump fuels use as little enhancers as possible because its expensive to treat right.  

 

In MN and even down here in Colorado we can get CENEX fuels from our CO-OP's and CENEX ROADMASTER XL is a higher cetane,  highly additized diesel that has show superb cleaning effect, excellent lubricity, excellent flow, and resists gelling or blocking filters etc. It costs 2 cents a gallon more than the regular #2 diesel around here. 

 

In Canada CO-OP fuels are exceptional for same reasons but not made by CHS/CENEX up north here. 

 

I ran Cummins R&D chem lab in Columbus Indiana and I retired in 2014.  However Cummins is recommending Power Service products now but you have the same miscibility issues top treating unless there is some chemical mechanism to mix in tank.

 

Some of the readers here are on west coast where synthetic diesel might be offered. It could be used for optimum performance and probably mixed to cut cost of that expensive fuel. 

 

Ideally get a fully formulated fuel out of the pump before top treating but I understand reality for the operator. 

 

 

Posted

Archoil is a great additive system based on borate esters in nano scale but miscibility still an issue.  Their oil additives work very well. I prefer a fully formulated product in oil and fuel if possible.  If you use oil additives make sure its not negatively reacting with your chosen lubricant.  Miscibility in a heated and oil pumped engine works to mix. 

Posted

I know my 12V Cummins has a fuel return line back to the tank so that surely helps the mixing issue.

 

Do our 3.0's have a return line as well?

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
16 hours ago, rbdjr said:

Any recamedations? facts, or fiction, Can 4oz to 20gals raise Cetane  5#s? Increase Lubricity? 

Is there a definate best one? Just in winter? Or all year long? 

 

Here's what GM has to say:

 

Diesel Fuel Additives – TechLink (gm-techlink.com)

 

Quote

Any fuel additives used must not contain any metal-based additives, alcohol or other water emulsifiers that may compromise the water removal effectiveness of the fuel filtering system.

 

 

Typically, a good source of diesel will have good quality diesel.  Top Tier diesel is your best bet for being treated good right from the pump.  

Edited by newdude
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Here where I live in NJ no Top Tier Diesel with in 100 miles? maybe one day?

  • Sad 1
Posted
14 hours ago, rbdjr said:

Here where I live in NJ no Top Tier Diesel with in 100 miles? maybe one day?

Yeah, top tier Diesel is a unicorn in PA as well.  Based on the website, it's either Costco or Kirkland, and neither offer it in PA at all.  

  • Sad 1
Posted (edited)
On 2/5/2022 at 12:08 PM, customboss said:

The problem with adding ( top treating ) fuel is that it doesn't properly mechanically mix in the tank. So you get blobs of additive not equally distributed in the cylinder at any given time.

 

I ran Cummins R&D chem lab in Columbus Indiana and I retired in 2014.  However Cummins is recommending Power Service products now but you have the same miscibility issues top treating unless there is some chemical mechanism to mix in tank.

 

When I had a '01 LB7 Duramax I would run additives since that engines injectors were designed to have the Sulphur in the diesel fuel. The ULSD was hard on the injectors. I would put the additive in before filling. I assumed the filling would mix the additive in. I had the same thought that just adding it to the top wouldn't mix it well enough.

 

With my 3.0 I don't run any additive in the fuel. My brother doesn't either with his 6.6 LML or his 6.6 L5P either. This is my second 3.0 and I've not had any issues not running an additive. I keep the tank full in the winter and always get fuel at a station that has a high turnover rate. Keeping the tank full will help eliminate the condensation inside the tank.

 

Cool you worked for Cummins in Columbus. I'm about 50 minutes from there and have several family members who worked/retired from there.

 

Edited by mjonesjr84
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted
7 hours ago, OliverDennis52 said:

Yeah, top tier Diesel is a unicorn in PA as well.  Based on the website, it's either Costco or Kirkland, and neither offer it in PA at all.  

Same thing in NC. Not a top tier diesel station to be found. 

  • Sad 1
Posted
On 2/5/2022 at 10:40 AM, SVG said:

I know my 12V Cummins has a fuel return line back to the tank so that surely helps the mixing issue.

 

Do our 3.0's have a return line as well?

Might assist but it doesn't heat or blend chemicals from refinery. Not just mechanical mixing issue. 

Posted
3 hours ago, mjonesjr84 said:

 

When I had a '01 LB7 Duramax I would run additives since that engines injectors were designed to have the Sulphur in the diesel fuel. The ULSD was hard on the injectors. I would put the additive in before filling. I assumed the filling would mix the additive in. I had the same thought that just adding it to the top wouldn't mix it well enough.

 

With my 3.0 I don't run any additive in the fuel. My brother doesn't either with his 6.6 LML or his 6.6 L5P either. This is my second 3.0 and I've not had any issues not running an additive. I keep the tank full in the winter and always get fuel at a station that has a high turnover rate. Keeping the tank full will help eliminate the condensation inside the tank.

 

Cool you worked for Cummins in Columbus. I'm about 50 minutes from there and have several family members who worked/retired from there.

 

Indeed and I had in laws in that area not to mention one of the fastest sprint car tracks back in the 60's-70's there in Salem. 

 

I grew up a farm boy in Harrodsburg. 

 

You and Newdude are explaining why I prefer to get the fuel mix from the rack not add anything.  In your market in southern Indiana, CountryMark is my goto fuel, diesel and gasoline.  

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, jlong1984 said:

Same thing in NC. Not a top tier diesel station to be found. 

If you can find CO-OP or whatever COOP's are using for their fuel I would lean that direction.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,782
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Newest Member
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 4,952 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I was around and remember that era very well, so I'm calling b/s on that statement. If they were that bad no police department or taxi company would've bought a single one ... but they were used in both services (and fire) for DECADES. They were bulletproof and proven. Even the early 21st century ones weren't too bad! The early models were legendary.   Mine is proof, but people like atlas are blinded by agenda and refuse to believe facts right before their very eyes.   Even decades after they were built, a new generation started driving them, posting all their builds and shenanigans on Grandmarq.net and Crownvic.net. The failures would show up then, since they all were deep past 100k-150k miles by that point, and younger drivers tend to be a little aggressive, especially with vehicles than can lay a one-tire fire for as long as you hold your foot in it. They've more than proven themselves over the decades.   The only thing that'll really take them out is road salt. The bodies and sheet metal were garbage. A victim of the cheapout FoMoCo and GM have been partaking in before then, and since.   Today it's the stuff that counts - the undercarriage that rots away first!    GMs Caprice was no slouch either. Reliable as a stone ax - the opposite of what they build now.    
    • Let me know how your vehicles do in 10 years. You don't know ******, kid. 😂    There's a reason that Panther platform was used as police, fire, and taxi service for DECADES ... long before you were born, apparently.
    • If your connector also has a big lever to get the connector on and off, you don't want to force the lever either way, as it becomes a bigger problem if you bust the lever or the mechanism it works.
    • It's just useful to disconnect the battery to prevent odd shorting out when unplugging/plugging stuff together.  I also  touch the two cable ends together (after disonnecting) to drain the small amount of stored battery energy in various modules.   I believe the main system where you need to be more concerned with, so you need to do the above and then wait some time, iss when you are working on the air bag system, to prevent inadvertent firing of the air bags.   The in-cab switches are just that, plain switches, it's generally not a problem to swap them in/out.  For my '12, I'll get an error message on the dash if I power up the truck w them unplugged, but that's it (power up= turn the ignition on).   The ITBC located above the spare tire is a computer that manages the trailer brake system.  That is probably more important to have the battery disconnected.  It does have to be programmed to the truck, either before or after it's installed, for it to work.  For my '12, I had a very hard time reinstalling the main connector to it (IDK if yours is the same or not), it turned out the silicon seal was jamming up, preventing it from going on all the way.  I finally got it fully installed by lubing the seal with a bit of dielectric grease, then it slid on and latched in place easily.
    • JR ! I just got the truck back from the Dealership today . The technician did a cold remote start on the truck this morning and it made the noise . It was determined that it was a starter issue and replaced it under warranty . Of course   it did not make the sound after a new starter was put in because the truck was not cold . We will we see what happens tomorrow morning when I start the truck cold  . Keep tuned !   Oh I found a video on YouTube of a cold start and it did the same thing your truck and mine do , I will see if I can find it and post it up
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...