Trailer brake control

[Pipelnr]

My trailer brake control set on 10 will not stop trailer, it is working but not strong enough gain. Do I need to replace the controller?

[CamGTP]

Can you hook your trailer up to a different truck to see if it does the same thing there?

 

I'd be thinking the controller on the trailer could be a cause.

[Pipelnr]

I don’t have that option 

[latreille89]

18 minutes ago, Pipelnr said:

I don’t have that option 

Easiest route is to find a donor truck and test it. Figure out if it’s the trailer or the truck. Otherwise, you better have some knowledge in testing the system if you don’t want to bring it into a shop and pay. 

[Jrodpic]

Are you sure the brakes on the trailer are good???

[EddDe]

Do you have an add-on brake controller? My integrated brake controller on #6 will lock up wheels on my 5000 +/- pound tandem axle travel trailer. I agree that you need to inspect electric brakes on your trailer.

 

[SVG]

OP, I had a custom welded aluminum boat trailer built last year. My AT4 wouldn't actuate the EOH brakes.

After much pulling of hair (that is a diminishing asset) I found that some truck's don't play well with some

brake systems. Once I added an HBA-CAM to my boat trailer all things worked as they should.

 

If you have electric only brakes than this may be of no use to you.

 

 

HBA-CAM .pdf

[redwngr]

Not trying to be a dick, but does the trailer have electric brakes?

 

I've pull several trailers.  One is a boat trailer that has 'surge' brakes which of course are not operated by a brake controller. 

 

 

Historically I've had much more trouble with electric brakes on trailers that with the controllers operating them. 

 

In few threads recently, (on this forum and others) trailer brake issues, even on new/nearly new trailers has turned out to be an  intermittent short in the trailer wiring leading to the brakes. 

Of course intermittent issues are the toughest to find.

[Pipelnr]

On 3/23/2022 at 9:01 AM, Jrodpic said:

Are you sure the brakes on the trailer are good???

The pads look good and they all seem to be working on trailer. They are self adjusting brakes on dexter axles. Does anyone know how much current there should Bo on maxed out controller at brakes?

[Pipelnr]

On 3/23/2022 at 9:57 AM, EddDe said:

Do you have an add-on brake controller? My integrated brake controller on #6 will lock up wheels on my 5000 +/- pound tandem axle travel trailer. I agree that you need to inspect electric brakes on your trailer.

 

This is intergrated controller , my previous truck had no issues so I’m not sure which way to go

[Pipelnr]

On 3/23/2022 at 12:43 AM, Pipelnr said:

My trailer brake control set on 10 will not stop trailer, it is working but not strong enough gain. Do I need to replace the controller?

Ok update 

I have went through the rv brakes and all are good. Now I am left with the truck brake system. I checked the voltage at the plug and can get 12 volts if gain is on max, but voltage drops down to 8 volts if below max setting. I would think the voltage should be 12 volts all the time and amps would change. I hooked up and held brakes on trailer at max and just slowly pulled trailer, brakes applied on trailer but not holding, and pulled rite through them at just over an idle. What do I need to do?

[Pipelnr]

 

Ok update 

I have went through the rv brakes and all are good. Now I am left with the truck brake system. I checked the voltage at the plug and can get 12 volts if gain is on max, but voltage drops down to 8 volts if below max setting. I would think the voltage should be 12 volts all the time and amps would change. I hooked up and held brakes on trailer at max and just slowly pulled trailer, brakes applied on trailer but not holding, and pulled rite through them at just over an idle. What do I need to do?

[newdude]

59 minutes ago, Pipelnr said:

Ok update 

I have went through the rv brakes and all are good. Now I am left with the truck brake system. I checked the voltage at the plug and can get 12 volts if gain is on max, but voltage drops down to 8 volts if below max setting. I would think the voltage should be 12 volts all the time and amps would change. I hooked up and held brakes on trailer at max and just slowly pulled trailer, brakes applied on trailer but not holding, and pulled rite through them at just over an idle. What do I need to do?

 

 

Any warning messages on the truck like "Service Trailer Brake"?

 

 

[Pipelnr]

1 hour ago, newdude said:

 

 

Any warning messages on the truck like "Service Trailer Brake"?

None

 

None 

[poppy510]

You need to be testing the current to each brake magnet now that you have confirmed voltage. You should be getting about 3A to each wheel. Easiest way to do this is to pull the trailer brake emergency disconnect pin (the cable that you attach to your bumper with the chains so that the brakes engage if the trailer disconnects from the hitch). This will apply max current to each wheel. Of course the trailer battery needs to be connected when you do this. A clamp on ammeter can be used to confirm 3A to each wheel (12A total leaving the battery.

 

There are a number of things that can mess up electric trailer brakes: bad magnets, poor mechanical adjustment of brakes, bad wiring, loose connections...  If the magnets are good and are getting 3A, start looking at the mechanicals.