Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I will guess.

You make valid points custom. I will go with clean oil or frequent OCI's because it has worked for years. Now if I had a problem like Grumpy, I get testing. I would have traded it, so kudos to him.

  • Thanks 2
Posted (edited)

I use many different brands, but keep them uniform for a specific vehicle.  For example, my wife's Honda Pilot and the Escalade get Mobil 1, my Silverado gets Castrol Edge with Titanium, the Trans Am and F250 get Pennzoil.  Basically I use whatever I think is the best at the time of its first oil change and I stick with that oil brand throughout the life of the vehicle.  Unless something comes along that says "hey stupid, change oil brands", RARELY will I change oil brands for one of my vehicles,.  The exception though, when synthetic oils first started getting big in the late 90's and early 2000's, I swapped everything over to Mobil 1.   I have never had a single engine oil related failure to any passenger vehicle engine that I have owned, and most see around 200K before I sell them.   All of that was to state merely what I am comfortable with, and I have no evidence (other than anecdotal) to support that my methodology works any better than anybody else's.

 

Pick a name brand full synthetic oil of the manufacturers suggested weight, get a quality filter, and change regularly.  Do that and any additional worries you have are borrowed.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Gangly
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, customboss said:

Grumpy Bears 2.4L rings stuck because he did everything right and the engine was  OVER fueling  diluting oil , nitrating, acidify, and carboning up the rings and valves.

 

Until I get that fuel problem under control my only workable defense is very short OCI's. 

Solution to pollution is dilution. 

😉 

 

At 1,735 miles this OCI and it looks really REALLY good

diyer2 would still be running it

 

Still I'll test on the next OCI.

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I have personally used Pennzoil Platinum for as long as I can remember. I think I did run 0W-30 Castrol (the green oil) once in an old Z28 I had lol. A good Wix filter to with it and called in a day. So far so good on my engines. The only engine to date I have had major issues with was my first Camaro. 1979 with a 350 and a 4bl carb. Bought her used and fixed her up over the years. One day a lobe on the cam wore and was tapping the bottom of a lifter. Other than that its been pretty good over the years.

Posted
1 hour ago, Byrds8 said:

I have personally used Pennzoil Platinum for as long as I can remember. I think I did run 0W-30 Castrol (the green oil) once in an old Z28 I had lol. A good Wix filter to with it and called in a day. So far so good on my engines. The only engine to date I have had major issues with was my first Camaro. 1979 with a 350 and a 4bl carb. Bought her used and fixed her up over the years. One day a lobe on the cam wore and was tapping the bottom of a lifter. Other than that its been pretty good over the years.

pennzoil I one of the best motor oils out there for sure, I have use it for better than a decade now and my engines always run like a top.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I use Amsoil Signature Series 0/20 and their extremely robust filter because I wanted the the best. And based on my own research that is what I chose. It’s expensive but I don’t care. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Are you playing Slide Down endlessly but your score is still low? Are you constantly crashing into obstacles as the game speed increases? Don't worry, this article will share 5 invaluable tips to help you master the race and impress your friends. Golden Rules 1. Look one step further. The mistake of 90% of new players is only staring at their character. The secret of experts is to look towards the top of the screen (where the slide is about to appear). This gives your brain an extra 0.5 - 1 second to process the situation and determine the direction of movement before the obstacle approaches. 2. Use gentle movements; don't swipe too hard. Slide Down is very sensitive. Moving your finger too forcefully or with excessive amplitude will cause your character to be thrown off course or crash into a wall. Practise moving your finger with small, decisive, and precise movements. 3. Don't be greedy for gold in dangerous locations. Gold coins are tempting for buying skins, but life is more important. If you see a gold coin right on the edge of a cliff or next to a spike trap, ignore it. Our goal is a High Score, and your score only increases if you survive. 4. Make the most of Power-ups. During the slide, you'll encounter items like Magnets (attract gold) or Shields (temporary invincibility). Never miss them! Especially the Shield, it's your "get out of jail free card" to help you get through those deadly fast sections. 5. Stay calm when speed peaks. When your score exceeds 500 or 1000, the game speed will be very fast. At this point, don't try to think logically; let your natural reflexes work. Take deep breaths and don't panic. Apply these 5 tips to your next game, and your leaderboard will surely improve dramatically. Good luck climbing the Slide Down leaderboard!
    • If you use compressed air regularly, one problem you cannot ignore is moisture. Water in the air line can cause rust, unstable air pressure, poor tool performance, and even damage to sensitive equipment. That is why I highly recommend using a desiccant air dryer. A desiccant air dryer is designed to remove moisture from compressed air by using drying materials such as activated alumina or molecular sieve. Compared with basic water separators, it can achieve much lower dew points, making it especially useful for applications that require dry and stable air. For workshops, painting systems, pneumatic tools, CNC machines, laser cutting equipment, and industrial production lines, a desiccant air dryer can make a big difference. It helps protect equipment, improve air quality, reduce maintenance costs, and extend the service life of the whole compressed air system. Another advantage is reliability. Many desiccant air dryers are built for continuous operation and can maintain stable drying performance even in demanding environments. For users who care about long-term efficiency and equipment protection, this is a smart investment. When choosing a desiccant air dryer, I suggest paying attention to air flow capacity, working pressure, dew point performance, regeneration method, and maintenance requirements. A good model should match your compressor system and actual air consumption. Overall, if moisture is causing problems in your compressed air system, a desiccant air dryer is definitely worth considering. It is practical, efficient, and highly useful for anyone who needs clean, dry, and reliable compressed air.
    • My brand new 2007 Silverado's wax frame was rust from end to end partway through it's SECOND winter here in MA. That stuff is completely useless.    
    • I went another direction after losing a trailer tire, thanks to not being able to access air at ANY of the 5 gas stations and garages I stopped at prior, with a Toyota Tacoma onboard, 50 miles from the Canadian border. They were either out of order, access was blocked, or the hose a few feet too short and I couldn't get any closer without risking damage to someone's property.   https://postimg.cc/gallery/X5QJ55w
    • I took a 12 second video on my iphone but the file is too big to upload. I will have to figure out how to extract the audio or just do another start with an audio recording. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...