Jump to content

Suggestions for touch up paint.

TA^Guy
 Share

Recommended Posts

TA^Guy Enthusiast

TA^Guy

Posted
Posted

So the other day I noticed that someone had scratched the passenger door of my 20' Quicksilver Sierra.  I also have a chip from a stone strike on my drivers fender I'd like to do.

I have touched up vehicles in the past and it never looks great.

Anyone have any suggestions on a good touch up paint?  Any tips on application methods?

Thinking I may just get the proper paint code, touch it up, and after it cures, wet sand and buff it to try and bring it flush with the stock paint.

 

Thanks for any suggestions. 

reeseb Enthusiast

reeseb

Posted
Posted

i suggest you don't wet sand. You'll end up sanding down the surrounding clear coat. 

  • Like 2
mafd2 Senior Enthusiast

mafd2

Posted
Posted

I've used automotive touch up based here in Louisiana with great results on several trucks.  They also have several tutorial vids.  I put a thin coat of base then a coat of clear then wet sand and buff.  I don't use the brush in the bottle.  I get good quality brushes from an art hobby shop.  You can get several shapes and sizes depending on the size of your scratch.

 

https://www.automotivetouchup.com/

mafd2 Senior Enthusiast

mafd2

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, It's Tim said:

"Touch up" will look 20X worse. 

 

spacer.png

Not if it's done correct with the right brushes and know what you're doing.  Done it too many times. Can't just blotch it on there. Then it'll look like crap.

  • Like 1
swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted

Have done fine with ACDelco and Duplicolor touch up pens which provide several ways of applying the paint.  Less is more.

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've done literally dozens of chips on Pepper and IF I don't point most of them out you would look along time finding them.

 

Like @swathdiver I use ACDelco or Duplicolor pens. On a day over 55F wipe the area to repair with alcohol and a microfiber or a prep wipe if you have those. I use a paper punch to make a dot of 2,000 wet/dry and superglue it to a new pencil eraser. Good light and magnification required. Just dull the area with the 2000. Use a 0000 oil brush to fill the chip above the paints height. Applicator provided is WAY to large. Let dry for at least an hour. Use 2000 again wet this time to 'level' the paint. Then move to 3,000 foam backed 3M and then 5000 foamback. Depending on contour I wrap the foam back around a shop rag or around something flat like a domino sanded flat. Lastly I use 3M Perfect It and microfiber. Each step finer use only the time and pressure needed to remove the previous marks. That last one will bring it to glass and you've removed only microns of finish. 24 hours later, wax it. 

 

This whole process is a 'touch' thing that must be learned but if you use the grades mentioned there is a great chance of success. Looks way better than stab and jab method detailers at used car lots do. 

 

Straight simple colors without metallic, flips, pearls or tri-coats and so on work much better but even on those it still looks better than stab and jab and good enough until you collect enough to warrant painting an entire panel(s). I've done a dark blue party metallic right in the middle of a flat hood that was good enough to fool the purchasing manager at the dealership and his body shop. That one took a few days but results are the result of effort and patients.  

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 1
Rob Mugs Enthusiast

Rob Mugs

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 4/20/2022 at 12:47 PM, It's Tim said:

"Touch up" will look 20X worse. 

 

Will look 20x worse than what?  Leaving it alone; exposing the primer or steel?

If you do it right, it is a solid 20/20 or better

Edited by Rob Mugs
  • Like 2
2016 Sierra Owner Senior Enthusiast

2016 Sierra Owner

Posted
Posted

This is one of the reasons I went with a silver truck. I have 2 chips I can barely see on mine so far. If you take the vin number to your dealer they can order a touch up pen that will match your color code. The last one I got had paint one one end and clear cote on the other. I think it was around $25.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Multigate Connector Difficult to Connect Fully

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      This is just a thought as I can't claim this is the correct thing to do but will suggest it and you can decide if its something you would try. First round up some electrical contact cleaner spray as they at least claim its not supposed to damage the components ( brake cleaner depending on the type is a real destroyer of plastic etc ) and to use that to assist to clean out any grime from the pins as well as the mechanism by spraying and working the lever etc. Then my next thought is to use silicone spray lube and not on the pins but on the seal and the pivot assembly. It may not be possible to spray it on certain area's and have to use a q tip as Davestar mentioned to keep it from getting on the pins. Dielectric grease can be fine on some things but its easy to get too much on if not careful and then gunk things up and a possible risk of getting it on the pins or sockets. The silicone spray is able to get into a mechanical component to help lube and on surfaces its just a fine film to reduce friction such as that seal. Also it can be doused off with a good flush of the electrical contact cleaner the next time for a repeat of a "clean and then lightly lube" step process to wash off any dirt that had stuck to the exterior etc of the plug.   Free advice, yes. Good advice ... now there's the question mark !    
    • JohnRoy
      2020 Sierra 2500 windows rolling down

      By JohnRoy · Posted

      Hey thanks yall for the info. It apparently was the key fob - the "reserve" key fob works just fine. Yall were all over it. Great input! JRD
    • PunchT37
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      I just bought one of these.   https://www.topdon.us/collections/diagnostic-tools/products/artidiag-pro   Yeah, it`s got a cable. $250/year after 2 years. Do I want more? Yep. But, I`m not working any more and can`t afford a whirlpool in my tool box.
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Why don't I have a good scanner? I've always wanted one when I've needed one.   My latest reading says I don't need to do a relearn on the ckp sensor on a 1995 with OBD 1.5. The relearn is prescribed for the later-model 1995's which shipped with actual OBD II when GM completed the transition in prep for the 1996 MY. I need to confirm that. Did you know forums are disappearing? Knuckleheads on Facebook... it's not the same. It's just not.   So, scanners. Again, shooting myself in the foot for having eBayed my Snap On MT2500 "brick" with all the adapters. Not that I couldn't buy another but those are getting quite old, and mine wasn't new enough to work on 2000's vehicles.   Damn it (as I'm scanning my email between paragraphs here). Did you know there's a 2000 Jimmy 2-door on BaT that's ending this morning? It's local. I want it. 14k miles. Absolutely beautiful.   Back to scanners. MT2500's are old. Solus, now that could be a contender. There's a ~2008 Verus with a system error that's basically new in box for cheap. Hmm...I'm not sure about a scanner that runs an archaic version of windows (95 or CE, I can't tell).   I want the ability to reset and rotate TPMS, test individual modules, bleed ABS, electronic parking brake controls for servicing brakes, relearn procedures and other bidirectional controls.   Snap On does an MT2600. It's a new model as of last year, marketed as their "entry" scanner. Entry? Only where $1900 gets you through the doorway plus, I'm guessing, $1000/year if you wish to keep it current. So goes scan tools actually designed for production environments. Want decent products with excellent support, you pay for it.   Everyone is raving about Autels and TopDons and Foxconns and all these newer brands that are selling the $500 "prosumer" scanners for backyard hacks like me. They're tempting...honestly. Updates are cheaper, base prices are remarkably cheaper... And you get to deal with bugs and translation whoopsies and, well, just don't use it on anything expensive, OK? Having a dealer replace an ECU because it needs to be re-imaged after an adventure in scanning is no joke. But I think most people are getting by OK with these units.   eBay on a scratch-and-sniff pro-model oldie, a shiny new TopDon, or???   God dang it, I can't stop looking at this Jimmy. I'm ready! I'll Bring The TRailer! It's beautiful.
    • Texasdeere
      What have you done to your K2 today?

      By Texasdeere · Posted

      I removed the OE running boards.  It looked so much better.  I wish I took them off a long time ago.     I had to put something back on for my wife.  I wanted Westin Sure Grip Running Boards but they are very pricey, like $600 plus.  I was going to go with the Ionic 41's like I had on the 2019 Silverado but went with Westin Outlaw Drop Steps instead, about $200 cheaper.  They are sturdy and functional but not super crazy about the look, but it works.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...