Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

ok guys, I know this must be popular mod   on here with those direct injected engines, so witch one oil catch can is the favorite or what is the best oil separator, in my opinion this is must for direct injected engine.

Posted (edited)

It is a popular topic, read some threads about it.

 

What you think is a must is where others will say it's a waste. I've owned a DI trucks for over 3 years, never installed one and never will. I've even had my intake manifold off at over 100k miles and it showed me no cause for alarm with my intake valves.

Edited by CamGTP
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 2
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I'm actually surprised that the catch can is not very popular on this forums, I will definitely  be installing  on my new truck, I will have one at home b4 I pick up the truck and install it as soon as I get delivery of my truck.

Posted

Just do a little search. They do have some popularity. Plenty of wars been fought over them just like choice of oil, oil filters, throttle body spacers etc................

 

It's just quiet for now

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)
On 4/30/2022 at 12:03 PM, Saso said:

I'm actually surprised that the catch can is not very popular on this forums, I will definitely  be installing  on my new truck, I will have one at home b4 I pick up the truck and install it as soon as I get delivery of my truck.

  Show us your before and after oil analysis, crankcase vent calculations, fuel economy, oil usage and might as well get a good ASTM D86 distillation of that residue in the catch can to show us what you are actually catching. 

 

 

Edited by txab
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 2
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, customboss said:

    Show us your before and after oil analysis, crankcase vent calculations, fuel economy, oil usage and might as well get a good ASTM D86 distillation of that residue in the catch can to show us what you are actually catching. 

 

 

sounds like a good idea .

Edited by txab
  • Like 3
Posted

I just installed the J&L Oil Separator. It's a very easy install. The instructions say to move the air box out of the way, but I didn't find that necessary.

 

It'll be interesting to see how much oil collects in there and what it looks like. It can't be a good idea to send that dirty oil back into the intake.

  • Like 1
  • 7 months later...
Posted

UPR products by far has the best quality in my opinion. Massive can with multiple sections that solidify the vapors. 1 in and 2 outs. 1 for idle and low rpm the other for higher and WOT. Barely have any vacuum in intake plenum at WOT. Also have a separator for the clean side for backflow.

Posted

Not sold on the idea of an oil catch can. I do know of people who have had giant vacuum leaks and poor performance on V 8s caused by leaky or defective catch can vacuum hoses and connection's. I was a Fleet Manager for a big city in the Midwest for 25 years and we never used catch cans on our Di engines in our fleet. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Interesting, I suspect I would have fueled up in Lee Vining as the day prior I would have filled up either in Laughlin or near there and maybe again before I entered Death Valley and once out the other side late that evening as I kept on driving into the night up near Lee Vining. Next morning I most likely fueled up in LV before heading over Tioga Pass into ( as I refer to it as "Yose .... Mite" 😁 ). And again that was 19 years ago but the price then must not have jumped out at me like the 5 bill a gallon theme of nutty cult hippy country Big Sir or head so far up their rear Aspen. I'd be curious to know where the highest prices are in the lower 48, I probably would not be far off to guess somewhere in Cali forn ie. Coldfoot and Prudhoe bay may have those prices beat but that is a whole other world up there and when prices are more normal elsewhere that is about what they can be up there I believe in no mans land. Anyway interesting that the 395 corridor is hosing people and the thing is, its tourist season and its not like there are a lot of competition options when driving up that highway from what I could see. Yup, big ole Boaterhomes and various other RV's ahead and behind me at the Yosemite entrance gate and they have to get their fuel somewhere.  
    • Those can be high, as well as the big California cities. The ones that will pop your eyes out are the 395 corridor on the Eastern side of the Sierra Nevadas. Lee Vining, $7.19 for regular and $8.89 for diesel is what the Google said right now.
    • Correct.  2019-2021 model years are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.  Recall 2021s use 19420611.   The recall engines 2022-2024 model years are serviced with 12740076.     The difference between 19420611 and 12740076 is GM changed injector size for 2022.  The injectors are smaller on 12740076 with smaller injector bores in the cylinder heads to match the smaller injectors.  So you can't install a 19420611 in a 2022-2024, and you can't install a 12740076 in a 2019-2021.     Both engines are the replacement engine p/ns that are in the L87 recall.  So both of these are the updated engines.     Here's a version of the L87 recall with the p/ns for all the parts needed.    RCRIT-25V274-7075.pdf   Note it shows 19420611 and 12740076 with an asterisk to a footnote "Use the VIN and the GM Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) to determine which part to order if two or more part numbers are listed for the same part, as it may vary by vehicle options."    
    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...