Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
3 hours ago, MrMagloo said:

Thanks for your contribution Clue.  Those Wmart LEDs are certainly an option, but I really don't want to deal with that coiled cable and control box, as I would never need infinite adjustability.  Ideally, I'd like to find a smaller say 4 to 6 LED strip that's 6000K and fairly dim to match to OEM. I'm waiting to see what Minmax reports back before pulling the trigger on a few options from Amazon to test.  Thx!

I went out on a limb on this, I didn’t want to brake the piggy bank to then find out this didn’t work 😂 so I went the cheapest way possible $9 leds and a paper clip. So now that I know it works in the next few weeks I’ll upgrade to something better and more OEM style 

Posted

I have not tackled this, and its a little lower on the list, but I think I just saw a post that the refreshes do have a two lead connector glued to the roof under the headliner for the lighted sunvisors.

Posted

I can confirm that there is a connector on each side of the headliner. I installed lighted visors from an AT4 about 3 weeks after receiving my truck. Aside from messing with connectors a little, that was pretty much plug and play. The lighting modules do get a little confused with it at times though, as the lighted visors kind of “fade” on. So, since my truck should NOT have them, it sometimes hiccups when they’re opened and the lights take longer to turn on, but they always work and come on. That was a good modification, along with the gentex rear view mirror that auto dims. I believe I installed that within 3 days of ownership.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

It should also be noted that the lighted visors I got I BELIEVE came out of a 2019 AT4. The connectors in the roof did not match the connectors on the visors, so I went through all the different connectors and ordered a pigtail harness for both sides so I only had to modify the visors, and not hack and mangle the truck. They are perfectly color matched and look fantastic. Apologies if the pic is upside down, it keeps reverting it to upside down no matter if I post it right side up OR upside down. 
IMG_9649.thumb.jpeg.f0be10074b08a30f1da5fc273fd04503.jpeg

part numbers: 13584278 (connectors)

84637506 and 84637521 for visors.

 

There may be updated parts for 2023 lighted visors that are the correct connector and may work better, but at the time, I didn’t have the patience to wait around. 

Edited by Minmax
  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Minmax said:

I can confirm that there is a connector on each side of the headliner. I installed lighted visors from an AT4 about 3 weeks after receiving my truck. Aside from messing with connectors a little, that was pretty much plug and play. The lighting modules do get a little confused with it at times though, as the lighted visors kind of “fade” on. So, since my truck should NOT have them, it sometimes hiccups when they’re opened and the lights take longer to turn on, but they always work and come on. That was a good modification, along with the gentex rear view mirror that auto dims. I believe I installed that within 3 days of ownership.

Where in the headliner are these plugs located? I will be doing this asap since my wife always complains 

Posted

Obviously, make sure you have them before diving in head first and getting everything, but they should be there as GM loves leaving remnants of higher trim options buried in their wire harnesses as it’s cheaper. Remove the A-pillar trim, and remove the visor off the same side. I believe it’s a 10mm for the A-pillar, and like a torx 15 or 20 for the three screws on the visor. Then untuck the headliner from that corner from the door weatherstrip and you should see a taped and/or glued up 2 pin connector hanging around up there within about 6 inches of the hole in the headliner where the visor base went through it.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
12 hours ago, Minmax said:

Obviously, make sure you have them before diving in head first and getting everything, but they should be there as GM loves leaving remnants of higher trim options buried in their wire harnesses as it’s cheaper. Remove the A-pillar trim, and remove the visor off the same side. I believe it’s a 10mm for the A-pillar, and like a torx 15 or 20 for the three screws on the visor. Then untuck the headliner from that corner from the door weatherstrip and you should see a taped and/or glued up 2 pin connector hanging around up there within about 6 inches of the hole in the headliner where the visor base went through it.

Which sun visors should I get that’s just plug and play? I really don’t want to be splicing wires. If you have a company or a link from where I can get them I’ll appreciate it. Thanks in advance Minmax

  • Like 1
Posted
On 10/17/2023 at 2:30 AM, Minmax said:

Ok, I went out and tested on my 2022 refresh Sierra Elevation in response to Cluemaster and Low Ufo's post from 2/15 that BCM (K9) connector X1 (black) pin 1 is not occupied, and is indeed where you want to wire into for footwell lighting. As Cluemaster noted, it will turn on and off with the interior lighting (including from the all on/off switch in the overhead lighting module). I tested it with just a small wire jammed in there for the time being and grounded it out to the nuts on the door jamb. Per the GM upfitters manual, the wiring to properly install this permanently would be GM part number 19370262. This is a 5 pack of pinned wires that will plug right in and be locked in place. Find a decent ground and you should be in business. I have only tested 2 of my four LED strips in it so far, as most of the parts from what I thought was a dead upgrade have been buried somewhere in parts bins, so I guess I will be finding all of those this weekend. Also, should be noted that the best pricing I could find on these wires (as of today 10/17/2023) was from eBay from Everett Chevy Buick GMC. 

 

As a quick heads up, I placed the order for the PN 19370262 from Everett, and found out after the fact, it was for ONE of the 5 Leads that are supposed to come with that PN package.  Most of the other Vendors are charging ~$41.xx for all 5 so this $28 for one lead seems odd.  Always worth having a back up in the event something breaks.  Imho, use one of the other vendors.

Posted

Yeah, I had the same situation with me and cancelled my order with them. I found them at a local dealer. The list price of that one little piece of wire is $67. They sold it to me for $27. I grabbed two. Already installed one, so now I have one extra. I too was puzzled by the “5 for around $50” and a single for around $30. Either way. That portion is behind me and I have one extra wire now. 

Posted
5 hours ago, Cluemaster said:

Which sun visors should I get that’s just plug and play? I really don’t want to be splicing wires. If you have a company or a link from where I can get them I’ll appreciate it. Thanks in advance Minmax

As for which ones you want without having to convert wiring. I don’t know, and couldn’t guarantee. What I would do, is go onto something like CarGurus, and look up a 2022 refresh or 2023 AT4 or Denali trim with the same interior color as yours. The VINs are listed on that site. Take that VIN, call in to your local dealer and say you need visors for said VIN, and get that part number. 

Posted
2 hours ago, Minmax said:

As for which ones you want without having to convert wiring. I don’t know, and couldn’t guarantee. What I would do, is go onto something like CarGurus, and look up a 2022 refresh or 2023 AT4 or Denali trim with the same interior color as yours. The VINs are listed on that site. Take that VIN, call in to your local dealer and say you need visors for said VIN, and get that part number. 

Man at this point I’m not gonna do this honestly it doesn’t bother me. As for my wife oh well for her 😂 I ordered on Amazon this very small 1-1/2” and thin led light that comes with 3M tape that’s rechargeable to stick right above passenger sun visor that should do the job 👍🏽

Posted

Hahahaha!!!! My wife would have never even noticed. To be honest, I checked everything right when I went to go get the vehicle, I basically hunted around the country to find what I wanted, and drove 4 hours to go get mine. I got in and was like “no vanity mirror lights? No auto up window on the pass side?? No auto dimming mirror??? No auto fold mirrors???? No footwell lighting?!?!?” I said “screw it, I’ll figure it out, gimme the truck” and here we are. On another ridiculous first world annoyance finally tackled. The auto up is not a feasible fix, and boost auto makes folding mirrors, but right NOW you lose 360 camera. So, I’ll stick with what I got.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
16 hours ago, Minmax said:

Hahahaha!!!! My wife would have never even noticed. To be honest, I checked everything right when I went to go get the vehicle, I basically hunted around the country to find what I wanted, and drove 4 hours to go get mine. I got in and was like “no vanity mirror lights? No auto up window on the pass side?? No auto dimming mirror??? No auto fold mirrors???? No footwell lighting?!?!?” I said “screw it, I’ll figure it out, gimme the truck” and here we are. On another ridiculous first world annoyance finally tackled. The auto up is not a feasible fix, and boost auto makes folding mirrors, but right NOW you lose 360 camera. So, I’ll stick with what I got.

On my 2023 sierra elevation I was able to find the matching driver mirror for the passenger side so now both my mirrors have the small little blind spot mirror on the corners 

Posted
Just now, Cluemaster said:

On my 2023 sierra elevation I was able to find the matching driver mirror for the passenger side so now both my mirrors have the small little blind spot mirror on the corners 

I come from owning nothing but infinity and Lexus cars, I traded my 2021 Lexus is350 f sport for this truck. I don’t regret it but DAMN!!! For the price there’s thing that should just come standard in this truck. But this is my first truck ever I’m testing waters that’s why I leased it, but my next one I will get it with all the bells and whistles 🤞🏽

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...