Jump to content

Premature brake replacement

Pyrojodge
 Share

Recommended Posts

Pyrojodge Enthusiast

Pyrojodge

Posted
Posted

Hello all,

 

I am one of the unfortunate people that just had to replace my rear rotors, brake pads, and wear sensor because I live in the northern United States where corrosion is going to happen.  Apparently how the brake pad wear sensor held the area can corrode which allows the sensor to move into a position where it causes wear to the rotor and the sensor eventually causing an error message about your BRAKE PAD MONITOR SYSTEM needs attention.  This is an $800 bill for me to replace 80% remaining brake pads and good rotors and the sensor because of GM's engineering choice for this system.  I'm curious if anyone else on here has run into this issue and what the chances are of GM stepping up if there's enough of us having to replace components that are still in fantastic shape?  I wonder how many of their vehicles use this same set up and how many issues this has caused.

 

2019 High Country 64k miles for reference.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)
45 minutes ago, Pyrojodge said:

Hello all,

 

I am one of the unfortunate people that just had to replace my rear rotors, brake pads, and wear sensor because I live in the northern United States where corrosion is going to happen.  Apparently how the brake pad wear sensor held the area can corrode which allows the sensor to move into a position where it causes wear to the rotor and the sensor eventually causing an error message about your BRAKE PAD MONITOR SYSTEM needs attention.  This is an $800 bill for me to replace 80% remaining brake pads and good rotors and the sensor because of GM's engineering choice for this system.  I'm curious if anyone else on here has run into this issue and what the chances are of GM stepping up if there's enough of us having to replace components that are still in fantastic shape?  I wonder how many of their vehicles use this same set up and how many issues this has caused.

 

2019 High Country 64k miles for reference.

 

 

You did good making it 64k.  We replace them on trucks as early as 15,000mi on this new body style.  Don't expect any help from GM, especially that far out of bumper to bumper.  

 

The only thing that would work for longer life on the new brakes is preventative maintenance aka once a year have everything cleaned and lubricated on the front and rear brakes, which should be done anyways to prolong their life.  Especially in the salt belt.    

Edited by newdude
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Bikerjon Enthusiast

Bikerjon

Posted
Posted
On 1/17/2023 at 1:21 PM, newdude said:

 

 

You did good making it 64k.  We replace them on trucks as early as 15,000mi on this new body style.  Don't expect any help from GM, especially that far out of bumper to bumper.  

 

The only thing that would work for longer life on the new brakes is preventative maintenance aka once a year have everything cleaned and lubricated on the front and rear brakes, which should be done anyways to prolong their life.  Especially in the salt belt.    

 

Hey newdude, exactly where and how do you clean and lubricate the brakes? Are you referring to the mounting area for the brake pad wear sensor? If so I will do it to my Trail Boss when it warms up.

 

Thank you for any advice on this.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
31 minutes ago, Bikerjon said:

 

Hey newdude, exactly where and how do you clean and lubricate the brakes? Are you referring to the mounting area for the brake pad wear sensor? If so I will do it to my Trail Boss when it warms up.

 

Thank you for any advice on this.

 

 

You can clean the wear sensor area if its possible yes.  Brake dust can accumulate.

 

I'm talking about the pad mounting area so the pad hardware clips or in the case of the front brakes on these, the pins that hold the pads in place should be cleaned and lubricated to keep everything free and sliding.  Things bind up, pads stick in the brackets or the calipers and then things wear out wrong or fast.  

  • Thanks 2
  • 11 months later...
Adammrtl27 New Member

Adammrtl27

Posted
Posted

This never used to be an issue. When I was a kid my dad used to get two brake changes before needing to change his rotors. My mom drives a Toyota as a traveling nurse and gets 45,000 miles between brake jobs. My oldest brother used to fix old cars, we would drive a car out of a junkyard, pump the brakes and clear the rust off the rotors... 

 

Meanwhile I've leased 4 or 5 GMC vehicles over the last few years and I'm currently sitting in the shop with a 2.7 year old truck, with 26000 miles looking at a $700+ brake job. 

 

I'd like GMC to explain why I should lease a Toyota next? 

 

 

  • Sad 1
KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted

The more I read this forum the more convinced I am about not buying any new GM. Or any newer vehicle before joining the appropriate vehicle forum. My Avalanche had one brake job in 180K miles. My Odyssey just had one at 130K. My wife’s Genesis with mostly in town driving one axle in 132K miles. Why in the world do we need sensors to tell us we need new brakes? Go to the dealer once in a while they will check. If nothing else you can hear it. 

  • Like 2
  • 3 months later...
Theynine Enthusiast

Theynine

Posted
Posted

Bulletin No.: 21-NA-089 issued March 23 2023 states that a sh!tty caliper design allows dirt and debris to get in there and cause early pad wear.  They say there is a revamped version available with a mud shield of sorts.  They also say its the customers problem to pay for it.  And the caliper itself runs for close to $600!  EACH!  Screw these guys!  I have the ‘YOU REPLACED PARTS DO YOU WANT TO RESET THE ALERT SCREEN’ thing going on now, even though the brake monitor screen says 60 70 wear left.  Ive got 39,000 on the 2021 Silverado RST so I decided to check it out and the rear pads are indeed quite low.  So I guess the YOU REPLACED PARTS DO YOU WANT TO RESET thing is actually your pad wear indicator,  not the screen with percentages on it,  cus thats full of ******.  THIS SHOULD BE A PAID FOR RECALL!

silveradosid Senior Enthusiast

silveradosid

Posted
Posted (edited)

the part gm should pay for is to recailbrate the monitoring system. it is absolute bullcrap that a sensor reads 70 % brake pad left when it is actually worn right out. this is dangerous, because if you believe what the truck says you could have a brake failure. my left rear sensor was against the rotor and worn down to almost nothing and still said i had 60 percent brake pad left

Edited by silveradosid
  • 1 month later...
Ryan2017 New Member

Ryan2017

Posted
Posted

My 2024 ultimate Sierra had the brakes go 27,000 km after the break sensor light came on and was giving me warnings on my dash GM provided no support for this refused to acknowledge it even a problem as a few of my buddies had the same thing happened as well

BIGDOGx Senior Enthusiast

BIGDOGx

Posted
Posted
On 1/17/2023 at 2:21 PM, newdude said:

 

 

You did good making it 64k.  We replace them on trucks as early as 15,000mi on this new body style.  Don't expect any help from GM, especially that far out of bumper to bumper.  

 

The only thing that would work for longer life on the new brakes is preventative maintenance aka once a year have everything cleaned and lubricated on the front and rear brakes, which should be done anyways to prolong their life.  Especially in the salt belt.    

I know this post is old but wow, did it change after the 18 model year? My 14 is just now needing rear's done at 10 years and around 73,000 miles..

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, BIGDOGx said:

I know this post is old but wow, did it change after the 18 model year? My 14 is just now needing rear's done at 10 years and around 73,000 miles..

 

 

Yes brake system is all new, as are all the calipers.  Seems to be a couple things going on leading to early replacement, especially the rears.  Items getting lodged into the pads, pads hanging up in the brackets on the side the wear sensor is on, rotors get some nasty ridges and grooving.  We've already done them on used 2022 and 2023s they've been buying in for used cars.  The rotors seem to be the biggest thing on those so far.  

  • Thanks 1
BIGDOGx Senior Enthusiast

BIGDOGx

Posted
Posted

Seeing as i am needing brakes soon what would you recommend for pads and rotors? I was always of the school of thought that OEM GM brake components are usually the best and longest lasting, certainly not the cheapest though.

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, BIGDOGx said:

I know this post is old but wow, did it change after the 18 model year? My 14 is just now needing rear's done at 10 years and around 73,000 miles..

 

9 years, 3 months and some odd days. 181,000 on the OEM set with allot left in the pad/rotor. They dumbed it down and want ME to pay for the 'fix'? How bout I don't buy it at all and save twice what I paid for the first truck? :mad:  

 

1 hour ago, newdude said:

 

 

Yes brake system is all new, as are all the calipers.  Seems to be a couple things going on leading to early replacement, especially the rears.  Items getting lodged into the pads, pads hanging up in the brackets on the side the wear sensor is on, rotors get some nasty ridges and grooving.  We've already done them on used 2022 and 2023s they've been buying in for used cars.  The rotors seem to be the biggest thing on those so far.  

 

That is just wrong at every level. :nonod:

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
42 minutes ago, BIGDOGx said:

Seeing as i am needing brakes soon what would you recommend for pads and rotors? I was always of the school of thought that OEM GM brake components are usually the best and longest lasting, certainly not the cheapest though.

 

 

The OE stuff is what I use, I just always make sure to tear it all down once a year and clean and lube everything.  If you do that, most any brakes should last a while.  

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I just can't think of the exact term GM uses for that higher gvw package without looking at the website but basically sort of a trailering package and I imagine it may also have been created to skirt around the licensing fee differences between a3/4 and 1 ton that apply in some states although ironically I believe in some states its the reverse that a 1 ton is the cheaper truck to license over a 3/4 ton. It makes no difference here in Alberta but oddly enough a 1 ton through my insurance company is a bit cheaper to insure over a 3/4 ton as its based on the insurance statistics they generate.    For sure when ever you do have the chance to weigh your truck and to be fair, try to have the fuel tank full or nearly so rather than give yourself a false sense of the truck being lighter by having an almost empty tank.    In my other comment I was mentioning stock sized tires and partly in case someone was reading this and thinking they could lower their pressure down to what your aftermarket tires are able to do with your empty truck as that is a vastly different picture in the leeway you have to play with for running minimum pressures while remaining safe. I will say also that its easy to see from reactions of truck owners that may have been more used to owning a half ton in the past or a car and be it on a forum like this or in person etc that they get so wrapped up in that placard pressure sticker that they can't get their head wrapped around the fact that an HD truck due to how much it can carry can also vary the tire pressures drastically lower than those pressures ( typically more so for the rear axle on stock sized tires ) when empty vs some car that isn't made to carry much so the tire pressures can't be lowered since it needs almost that much pressure just to carry the empty car.    If I ever do find myself in the states with this truck, I will only be too happy to switch it over to the US measuring system as then I will understand all the dash readings. The only thing that is off for me slightly with US measurements is US miles per gallon as I grew up with the Imperial gallon and to this day up here anyway speak in Imperial miles per gallon ( I don't do that on this forum though as that would confuse everyone for no good reason ). 
    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • Chuck FB
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...