Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just got back from a 2 week snowmobile trip in Quebec.  I left my truck at my house in Vermont.  Got back, and the battery is totally dead.  Would not jump off of jumper cables.  Had to call AAA, and they double jumped it with a jump box, and jumper cables.  Drove it home 3.5 hours to my house in CT.  Shut it off, and sure enough, it wont start.  Put a voltmeter on it and is reading 3.3 volts.  So I bought a new battery.  Now I have a warning to service parking brake and a wrench symbol on the dash.  WTF GM??  Off to the dealer I go, and I'm out of warranty as the truck has 40k miles on it.dash.thumb.jpg.55d469bf32e3b7d560adefecaf244e8d.jpg

Posted

Do you have an OBD2 scan tool?  Might be able to clear those codes that are throwing the dash lights.  If they come back on you'll know there's a definite problem. 

Posted

Just saw a video on youtube.  To clear this, just start the truck, press the brake, and hold the parking brake button for 10 seconds.  It cleared.  No trip to the dealer.  But still, batteries dying cuz the truck sat for a couple weeks.  This is the second time it happened actually.  Went on a cruise for a week, came home and same thing, but that time I was able to jump it off my car.

Posted

Have the battery load tested.  Makes me wonder if you have a dead cell in it and the battery is showing enough volts across the good cells when charged but as soon as any load is on it battery drains down and fails

 

Also, with everything on modern vehicles having sensors and/or being electronic when the working voltage gets low all kinds of weird things happen and goofy errors happen.

  • Like 1
Posted
16 hours ago, AJMBLAZER said:

Have the battery load tested.  Makes me wonder if you have a dead cell in it and the battery is showing enough volts across the good cells when charged but as soon as any load is on it battery drains down and fails

 

Also, with everything on modern vehicles having sensors and/or being electronic when the working voltage gets low all kinds of weird things happen and goofy errors happen.

Spot on. I just went through this on my '20 Traverse. Load test showed battery borderline weak. Tossed all kinds of crazy codes on a cold start up yet cranked up strong. One would expect more than a few years out of a big AGM battery but not today. 

Posted

Eh, manufacturing defects/COVID production issues/the high demand on the electrical systems of modern vehicles/GM probably didn't put in the highest grade batteries/etc.  He's also in a cold climate with a diesel.  Lots of demands on modern batteries and charging systems.

Posted

Any accessory devices (radar detector, dashcams, etc.) connected that might increase the parasitic draw above the factory level? 

 

If not, there is a procedure to determine whatever it is that is causing the abnormal draw.

 

Posted

There was a TSB on something that was causing parasitic draw from the factory because it wasn't going to the proper shut down state and was sticking in standby mode. It's also helpful to randomly put a battery charger on the truck to top it off. If you're driving short distances and the vehicle sits a lot, it will drain the battery and never get fully charged.

Posted

What GETGONE said.  I had this issue on an F150 a while back.  It was a control module that never shut off properly.  We spend months hunting a parasitic drain only to find the transmission said awake all the time and drained the battery.  No faults thrown.  

 

Good luck.

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Mine is at the dealer right now being tested for battery drain but the dealer is telling me if these trucks sit for 2 or more weeks the battery will be dead and to use a maintainer if it's going to be sitting for awhile. The only thing I have on mine is a dash cam in which has motion recording so I'm sure that's part of the problem but when it's sitting in my closed garage for a couple of week there isn't any movement to record but it's thinking about recording I guess. It has died 2 times, first time after sitting for a month in my garage the battery was so dead it wouldn't even take a charge, the second time it sat outside for 6 days, it started right up, I drove it home (12 miles on highway) and put it my garage and it sat for another 6 days and it was dead again, I was able to charge the battery this time though. I will report back as to what the dealer finds but I'm guessing they'll find nothing besides my dash cam.

Posted

That’s BS. My truck is 5 years old with 113,000 miles on it. Original battery. In February it sat for over two weeks and started just fine. 
 

A newish, correctly functioning, factory original truck shouldn’t have any draws that would make a battery go dead in 2 weeks. 

Posted

Dealer said there is no above normal draw on battery, let it sit 2 days on a meter of some sort. I do agree with it should be able to sit longer than 2 weeks but I'm friends with the service manager at this dealer, I trust him and he said he's had a few of them come in with the same issue and they see no draw on the vehicle. My 2014 Corvette can only sit 3-4 weeks max without a maintainer otherwise it will be dead as well. Not much more I can do, If it's going to sit more than a week going forward I'll just put the maintainer on it. 

Posted

Oh, another thing to add, he said it's just on the refreshed trucks, my 19 didn't have that issue either. 

  • 6 months later...
Posted

Reviving this thread.  Again went on a 2 week snowmobile trip to Quebec, and again came homee to a dead battery.  Had to replace the battery in 4 degree weather in my driveway, that was fun.  It had been at the dealer for 5 days now.  They say there is a parasitic draw somewhere behind the dash.  Anyone have any insight so I can point them in the right direction?  All I can say is this truck has been nothing but a nightmare.  58k miles and it has been at the dealer 5 times now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,980
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Fishboat
    Newest Member
    Fishboat
    Joined
  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 491 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  
    • Thank You.   So far my new ride is making me look like a genius for going with the 3.0L, as my first fuel refill occurred over three weeks from when I took delivery.  This engine combination is very amazing.  So far no issues and had not done a regen yet.
    • I am curious as to how much fluid you put back in the transmission ( assuming you had replaced the filter to compare to my findings ) and then went through the process of warming up the trans before pulling the check plug to drain out the excess and if you measured how much came back out.    I just found it surprising that some claimed a certain amount less fluid being put in and then draining some back out. The attitude of the truck as per if the surface is level and how the trucks stance is would make quite a difference since the check plug is right at the front of the transmission. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...