I don't want an oil burner/best oil to use

[dieselfan1]

I just picked up a 2026 3500HD LTZ 6.6 gasser. I only have 125 miles on it and I love it coming from a 23 High Country 6.2.

I want to dump the oil at around 500-600 and pick an oil i will use for the life of this truck. Probably change again at 1500ish miles

I'm thinking about 3500 miles between oil changes after that. 

Again I don't want a oil burner.

Cost is not an issue but I'm not sure I want to run Amsoil. 

Open for suggestions 

 

[Another JR]

Based on work I’ve done with run-in of new and overhauled aircraft piston engines, I’m convinced it’s all about the cylinder honing and the very initial break in of the rings. I think the key is to get a truck that nobody abused in a test drive in the first few miles, and to follow the manufacturer’s recommended break in process from there. Unfortunately not all of us are able to get a truck that nobody has test driven.  
 

I ordered my 2021 truck, and it had two miles on it when I took delivery, and no other customer drove it. I broke it in per the manual. It now has 15 k miles on it, and the oil volume drops less than a pint between 3750 mile oil changes.  

[diyer2]

Why not Amsoil? 

[dieselfan1]

3 hours ago, diyer2 said:

Why not Amsoil? 

I've never bought into the hype over amsoil. I know it's good oil. I've always thought it was for longer intervals between oil changes(7500+ miles).

I'm wanting to change every 3500-4000 miles.

Edited October 3, 2025 by dieselfan1

[MORSNO]

Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntech are the two that I would consider.  Amsoil does make an OE line of oil that is about the same price as other synthetics.  I've used nothing but Mobil 1 and Amsoil in my trucks (GM 350, 5.1, and 6.0 gassers) since my first new truck purchase in 1988.  I keep my trucks for a long time after buying new and meticulous maintenance.

Edited October 3, 2025 by MORSNO

[Pryme]

I’ve run M1 and super tech in my truck without any oil burning. I’ve been changing it roughly every 4k because I don’t drive it that much. It’s a 22 and just hit 16k miles. 
I bought it with 7mi on it. 

[Grumpy Bear]

On 10/2/2025 at 6:33 PM, dieselfan1 said:

I just picked up a 2026 3500HD LTZ 6.6 gasser. I only have 125 miles on it and I love it coming from a 23 High Country 6.2.

I want to dump the oil at around 500-600 and pick an oil i will use for the life of this truck. Probably change again at 1500ish miles

I'm thinking about 3500 miles between oil changes after that. 

Again I don't want a oil burner.

Cost is not an issue but I'm not sure I want to run Amsoil. 

Open for suggestions 

 

 

Most of todays motors do not use oil because the wear out the bore/ring interface but because they foul the oil control ring, plug the oil return channels and coke the land between the second and third rings or foul the PCV system or both. It will take 80-120K miles to kill the rings using OEM spec oils at OEM OCI's. 

 

OEM spec oils limit but do not eliminate fouling. The longer they are run the less effective they are at keeping it clean enough to be effective. These oils spec'd by the OEM are asked to run 7.5K or longer and they can't. 2K perhaps. 3K if pretty much a highway motor. 1-1.5K for short hoppers. 3K would be my drop dead top for non-polar oils like Castrol or Mobil; 2K more likely and only if they were committed to long haul road work. 

 

AMSOIL SS and only SS has some ester content but does have a record of keeping her clean likely due to AN usage. It is a polar oil that is 3-5K capable.

 

Red Line HP is a very polar oil and one I've used in Pepper for almost 200K of oil consumption free use at 5K OCI's. I am shortening that to 3,750 currently but still double OEM offerings capable range. I'd expect TORCO SR-5 which is nearly a RLHP clone to perform about the same. 

 

Chevron Havoline Pro-RS (not DS) 5W30 is likely a good 3-4K offering as it is polar but not as robust in oxidation resistance at RL or TORCO and has a nice (5W40 spec) HTHS value. 

 

That said and if it were mine, when towing it would be 5W40.

 

It's a sampling and I don't think a one of them mentioned past the second paragraph that is DEXOS 'certified' but every one on the list, hands down, is superior in real work performance. 

 

You wanted an opinion. There is mine.  

 

 

[BuckWallace]

I put the Kirkland 5W-30 in my 2024 gasser and don't burn any noticeable amount of oil between changes (I go 5k).

[diyer2]

typing with one hand post surgery on the other hand. 

 

i have used amsoil's oe line of fluids quite a bit. oe motor oil is rated for 7500 miles, still think its better than off the shelf

oil.

the oe trans fluid i think is better than shelf fluid also.

 

everything is quieter, trans smoother works for me.

 

i have a new expensive sxs, switched driveline to amsoil products at 81 miles. quieter, smother. i could tell immediately. 

 

i can afford to buy any product i want. the boutique fluids and amsoils ss line are better than the oe. i change motor oil more frequently so my cost may not be cheaper than boutique, ss oil but i like clean oil. clean oil = clean motor, happy motor in my book. driveline fluids i change severe duty miles.  

 

i have done early fluid changes for 50+ years with off the shelf fluids putting more miles on vehicles than many without issue.

 

so why did i switch to amsoil products? the first time i used it was all it took.

 

 

 

[KARNUT]

Without getting long winded I can say Amsoil saved my business money since the 80s. Especially in hydraulic applications. We used high pressure hydraulics to run our clearing attachments. You blow a high pressure hose the pump and motor are toast. Amsoil Hydraulic oil eliminated the problem. Our 88 Ford diesel my father used to pull his fifth wheel camper. Fried the transmission at 100K miles. We put Amsoil transmission fluid in 185K miles later he traded it in without anymore issues. I pulled 25K combination with my duallys hauling my equipment. My engines ran cooler and an improvement with fuel mileage. We went extended with our equipment and vehicles. We doubled the hours with oil changes in the field. Saving time in the field. Oil analysis was done with great results. I’m sure other oils are within range of Amsoil these days. People tend to copy the best. When we need the best that’s our choice. 

[OS RR]

Thought the oil burning had been solved on the newer 6.6s?

[Pryme]

11 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Most of todays motors do not use oil because the wear out the bore/ring interface but because they foul the oil control ring, plug the oil return channels and coke the land between the second and third rings or foul the PCV system or both. It will take 80-120K miles to kill the rings using OEM spec oils at OEM OCI's. 

 

OEM spec oils limit but do not eliminate fouling. The longer they are run the less effective they are at keeping it clean enough to be effective. These oils spec'd by the OEM are asked to run 7.5K or longer and they can't. 2K perhaps. 3K if pretty much a highway motor. 1-1.5K for short hoppers. 3K would be my drop dead top for non-polar oils like Castrol or Mobil; 2K more likely and only if they were committed to long haul road work. 

 

AMSOIL SS and only SS has some ester content but does have a record of keeping her clean likely due to AN usage. It is a polar oil that is 3-5K capable.

 

Red Line HP is a very polar oil and one I've used in Pepper for almost 200K of oil consumption free use at 5K OCI's. I am shortening that to 3,750 currently but still double OEM offerings capable range. I'd expect TORCO SR-5 which is nearly a RLHP clone to perform about the same. 

 

Chevron Havoline Pro-RS (not DS) 5W30 is likely a good 3-4K offering as it is polar but not as robust in oxidation resistance at RL or TORCO and has a nice (5W40 spec) HTHS value. 

 

That said and if it were mine, when towing it would be 5W40.

 

It's a sampling and I don't think a one of them mentioned past the second paragraph that is DEXOS 'certified' but every one on the list, hands down, is superior in real work performance. 

 

You wanted an opinion. There is mine.  

 

 

Would you run a filter for 2 oci if changing that often? Seems totally fine to do. I’ve considered it. 
My truck rarely tows but only runs about 5k a year. Whatdya think?

[dieselfan1]

4 hours ago, Pryme said:

Would you run a filter for 2 oci if changing that often? Seems totally fine to do. I’ve considered it. 
My truck rarely tows but only runs about 5k a year. Whatdya think?

No way.

[Another JR]

6 hours ago, Pryme said:

Would you run a filter for 2 oci if changing that often? Seems totally fine to do. I’ve considered it. 
My truck rarely tows but only runs about 5k a year. Whatdya think?

I wouldn’t.  If you changed oil at 2500 and oil plus filter every 5k and it worked out to be annually or less calendar time, it wouldn’t be a mechanical travesty, but why push it?  Filters don’t cost much.  
 

I’ve been in a similar position the last few years having bought my truck a few years before retirement in order to get the old reliable six speed transmission. I haven’t been putting very many miles on my truck so far but I’m changing oil every 3750 or annually, whichever occurs first.  I’m about to do an oil change this weekend before 3750 while the weather is still pleasant. Retiring in 3 months on 12/31!  

[Chuck FB]

On 10/3/2025 at 10:32 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Most of todays motors do not use oil because the wear out the bore/ring interface but because they foul the oil control ring, plug the oil return channels and coke the land between the second and third rings or foul the PCV system or both. It will take 80-120K miles to kill the rings using OEM spec oils at OEM OCI's. 

 

OEM spec oils limit but do not eliminate fouling. The longer they are run the less effective they are at keeping it clean enough to be effective. These oils spec'd by the OEM are asked to run 7.5K or longer and they can't. 2K perhaps. 3K if pretty much a highway motor. 1-1.5K for short hoppers. 3K would be my drop dead top for non-polar oils like Castrol or Mobil; 2K more likely and only if they were committed to long haul road work. 

 

AMSOIL SS and only SS has some ester content but does have a record of keeping her clean likely due to AN usage. It is a polar oil that is 3-5K capable.

 

Red Line HP is a very polar oil and one I've used in Pepper for almost 200K of oil consumption free use at 5K OCI's. I am shortening that to 3,750 currently but still double OEM offerings capable range. I'd expect TORCO SR-5 which is nearly a RLHP clone to perform about the same. 

 

Chevron Havoline Pro-RS (not DS) 5W30 is likely a good 3-4K offering as it is polar but not as robust in oxidation resistance at RL or TORCO and has a nice (5W40 spec) HTHS value. 

 

That said and if it were mine, when towing it would be 5W40.

 

It's a sampling and I don't think a one of them mentioned past the second paragraph that is DEXOS 'certified' but every one on the list, hands down, is superior in real work performance. 

 

You wanted an opinion. There is mine.  

 

 

Before, we were discussing oils more capable of being higher sheer stable as well as being of a higher viscosity within their sold as viscosity numbers ( 5W-30 for example ) vs the typical mainline dexos paid for mass marketed oils that are just on the line for their in grade viscosity out of the bottle, as well as going even further up the scale of viscosity such as the 5W-40 for even more viscosity protection that you mention again now.

 

What I never realized since your profile just mentions being on earth, I had no idea where and then I noticed a comment you had about having worked in El Paso. That got me wondering and assuming you still reside in that area, I presume its pretty darned hot during the summers on average and I've only been through El Paso once during the winter so that only told me its a lot warmer than where I am in the winter but during the summer had been to Carlsbad Caverns, Roswell and also in White Sands and I certainly got the hell out of there later morning. So be it East, North, or West of El Paso it would be just plain hot during the summer and I am taking a guess that living in that environment with so many days of heat, that perhaps your concern and view point on ambient temperature and choosing a best viscosity might be different than if your summers were more like here for example where its in the mid 70's and sometimes will get up to 80 but not often that it gets much above that. I might be way off on why your line of thinking but that was what struck me when I saw you mention El Paso. 

 

I am still trying to figure out who might handle Red Line oil up here, their website shows nothing for this area but lists stores of the same chain in Edmonton but they don't carry the oils, there might be one retailer in Edmonton and I should call and see if they actually stock it. Other than that its Canadian online retailers off in Ontario. I thought it would be easier to find.