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Posted

Have anyone come up with a solutions to the motor mount issues happening on the 3.0. Is there any recall on this. I just paid 1,000 because my wire harness was rubbing on my egr valve bracket and a wire split (took 4 hours of diagnosis then 1 butt connector and a little electrial tape, but im not about to spend another 7000 on replacing motor mounts on truck that should last 200k plus miles. Really second guessing the brand. 

Posted

what makes you think this is some kind of widespread issue affecting thousand of vehicles, and not just say, yours.

 

Yours is literally the first post I've seen about this "problem".

Posted

Dealer probably quoted on uninstalling the frame from the vehicle, replacing the motor mounts, then reinstalling the frame.

Posted
10 hours ago, bwsaco said:

Have anyone come up with a solutions to the motor mount issues happening on the 3.0. Is there any recall on this. I just paid 1,000 because my wire harness was rubbing on my egr valve bracket and a wire split (took 4 hours of diagnosis then 1 butt connector and a little electrial tape, but im not about to spend another 7000 on replacing motor mounts on truck that should last 200k plus miles. Really second guessing the brand. 

I agree that 70k seems low for them to be worn out but the torque motors do eat them.

Likely you could change them yourself at home in the driveway on a weekend easy enough  TBH.

  • Haha 1
Posted

Hate to break it to you, but modern vehicles just REACHING 200k miles without major drivetrain issues are relics of the early 21st and most of the 20th century. Days long since gone, unfortunately for consumers.

 

I assume you're talking about the "baby Duramax". The one with a rubber band that drives the oil pump ... BEHIND the transmission. Just think about the labor on that one if your paying someone to fix it! On what planet did this sound like a good idea to GM engineers? Mind-blowing ... 

 

I can't help you with the motor mounts. You'd have to find a GM engineer that has quit out of frustration. I know there are many that have started their own businesses! One of them was on YouTube describing exactly why GM is the way it is today.

 

My suggestion is to get out from under it while you still can. Take the loss, and switch brands.

 

An even better course of action is to find something restored from the 20th century. That will reach 200k PLUS, guaranteed.

Posted

It really hasn’t changed that much. Every manufacturer has good years and bad years. I searched several local dealer sites daily looking for my next good deal. I see several high mileage vehicles from every brand along with their carfax. The song is the same good maintenance equals high mileage trouble free. If I see something interesting I look on the web for historical data. The manufacturer is chasing government mandated MPGs that add stress to vehicles. 2016 is my wall for as long as I can stay there. After that there’s way too much intrusion for my taste. I’m old school I don’t want the noise. My brother in law forgot to turn off his stop start on his newer VW. Sitting at a light in rush hour traffic his car wouldn’t restart. Dead battery. He feared for his life for an hour before a tow arrived. The only reason that it’s there is for a slight fuel mileage increase across the brand. Just like cylinder deactivation. Buy extended warranty on new, research used is about the best you can do. 

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Posted

Defective motor mounts?

Posted (edited)

I used to think the same thing until I bought that '07 In my signature. I took care of that thing maintenance-wise like no other vehicle. I treated it like GOLD.  It was the first new truck I had ever bought in my life, so nothing was too expensive when it came to fluids and filters ...

 

... and everything STILL wore out or broke long, LONG before it should have!! While these trucks have ZERO tolerance for neglected maintenance, they can't even survive with GOOD maintenance. 

 

Not just GM, either - it's all across the board today. GM just happens to lead the pack in the race to the bottom, especially lately.

Edited by Jsdirt
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Posted (edited)

I’ve known my brother in law over 50 years. He and his wife haven’t had many vehicles during that time. Usually a Tahoe or Yukon. The two main ones currently are an 08 and 13. 275K and 180K. The 13 just pulled a double axle uhaul from Macalister OK to league city Texas and back. 300K miles is common for him on 5K oil changes and 50K transmission service. He used to laugh at me when I would get another vehicle. He’s getting ready to finally restore his first car. A 69 Firebird convertible. He’s going to probably change brands shortly. His wife wants a midsize SUV. He’s looking at a Mazda 50 hybrid because it’s awd and has the Rav 4 guts. I was shocked. 

Edited by KARNUT
Posted (edited)
On 4/18/2026 at 8:50 PM, CamGTP said:

Is the cost really $7,000 for motor mounts?

 

On 4/18/2026 at 11:13 PM, johnnyquick said:

I agree that 70k seems low for them to be worn out but the torque motors do eat them.

Likely you could change them yourself at home in the driveway on a weekend easy enough  TBH.

 

 

Alldata books 16.3 hours to change both.  

 

At 200/hr, that's $3260 just in labor.  Right side is the more complex side.  Gotta suck down the refrigerant to move a couple lines out, and a big chunk of the exhaust and EGR has to go as well.  

 

Parts would run about $590.  That's both new mounts (updated mounts), new mount to block brackets (required for the new mounts), one time use bolts, all seals and gaskets for everything that has to be removed and coolant.   

Edited by newdude
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Posted

My 69 impala had TQ straps. Maybe you can tie that sucker down.

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Posted (edited)

LOL, that's what I'd do before dropping even $1,000 for something the manufacturer should be fixing.

 

I did engine mounts on a 2007, 900-series 4x4 Tahoe - was an absolute NIGHTMARE. I can only imagine how bad a new 3.0 is to deal with ...

 

At least the 'Hoe made it to 190k before the job.

Edited by Jsdirt
  • Like 1
Posted
On 4/20/2026 at 5:54 AM, newdude said:

 

 

 

Alldata books 16.3 hours to change both.  

 

At 200/hr, that's $3260 just in labor.  Right side is the more complex side.  Gotta suck down the refrigerant to move a couple lines out, and a big chunk of the exhaust and EGR has to go as well.  

 

Parts would run about $590.  That's both new mounts (updated mounts), new mount to block brackets (required for the new mounts), one time use bolts, all seals and gaskets for everything that has to be removed and coolant.   

THAT is damned expensive at 70k, I agree with the other fella some chain and an extra bolt hole on engine, weld other end to the frame.

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