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Steering Radio Controls

divejoe

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holty Enthusiast

holty

Posted
Posted

Let me clarify my above request for the part number I need: looking for Black leather (ebony) with silver trim - both audio and cruise controls.

BigBlueLB756 Senior Enthusiast

BigBlueLB756

Posted
Posted

OK! Going WAY back to post #242, the stock number for an EBONY wheel with TITANIUM inserts and both CRUISE CONTROLS and REDUNDANT AUDIO CONTROLS is 20853084.

holty Enthusiast

holty

Posted
Posted
OK! Going WAY back to post #242, the stock number for an EBONY wheel with TITANIUM inserts and both CRUISE CONTROLS and REDUNDANT AUDIO CONTROLS is 20853084.

 

Just so you know, the Titanium part number is NOT 20853084

 

15917933 is the steering wheel with TITANIUM inserts

15917931 is the wheel with the BLACK inserts

 

20853084 is for the brushed stainless(silver) trim

  • 3 weeks later...
eric04m Enthusiast

eric04m

Posted
Posted

First of all thanks, this is a great topic with lots of great information, I just ordered a steering wheel for my new 09 silverado. My question is about the bluetoothe capability. Will I need to order the VCIM or will my truck already have it and it will work when I get my new steering wheel. My truck is the LT Texas edition with onstar in the rearview mirrior and the radio with XM sorry if this is a stupid question and thanks in advance

  • 3 weeks later...
97wing New Member

97wing

Posted
Posted

Will a steering wheel p/n 15917934 from a 2008 Silverado 2500 fit a 2012 Silverado 1500 WT? I would need to use the airbag from the 1500.

  • 4 months later...
Dcrockett05 New Member

Dcrockett05

Posted
Posted

I just got done installing my radio controls. I have a 2011 wt with the 5.3. No power locks, nor power windows. But luckily, i had cruise control. All i did was order a new wheel with the switches and leather wheel. The steering wheel came off a 2012 2500 ltz. The guy was wanting to add heated wheel. So i got it and went to work. The only problem i ran into was the main clip of the wiring harness. I was trying to flip the blue thing up and the it still wouldn't come out. Spent like 10 mins in 97+ heat in direct sun doing this. I finally figured out that the clip is on top of the plug. Just use a small screwdriver to pry it up and you are good. Steering wheel was super easy to remove and install. BTW, i followed the guys instructions on page 5 of this thread. Thanks alot man. Peace everyone.

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
rvaldron Enthusiast

rvaldron

Posted
Posted

Reviving an old thread here, does anyone know what part # the shroud is for the back of the wheel? I got the audio controls and harness for $50 from ebay. Harness is part #25889498 for my 2011 (and i think any from 2009-2012).

 

I got my air bag off no problem but found that my shroud did not have a hole for the audio controls. I also couldn't get the wheel off so I'll be picking up a wheel puller this week. I figured if i'm going to wait for the wheel puller, may as well try to find the shroud. None of the parts websites have a listing for it though.

Trav_13 Senior Enthusiast

Trav_13

Posted
Posted

Don't strike the shaft with a BFH!! Had a friend do this and crushed the column. I guess there is like a crush sleeve in there for safety if you have an accident and he collapsed his. Use the puller!!

rvaldron Enthusiast

rvaldron

Posted
Posted

ok i picked up a puller for $15 today and got it all off. I followed the instructions from the videos found here:

http://www.youtube.com/user/autowoods?feature=watch (there's one for taking the wheel off and one for taking the wheel apart).

 

the wire harness that i had stock only had the connector for the cruise control so I bought this one: http://www.ebay.ca/i...#ht_1700wt_1061 part #25889498 as mentioned above but had to make some modifications to make it fit.

 

Here's a pic of the harness I received from ebay:

harness.png

 

notice on the right side of the pic, the black and orange leads. The black one is for ground and the orange is for horn contacts. The horn connector is missing some parts and the black ground one will not connect to the ground tab properly.

 

Here's a photo of the ground tab and connection:

groundconnector.png

The stock one was a 90 degree connector while the new one was straight. I cut the new connector off and then soldered the old wire/connector onto it. My old one had 2 wires spliced together, with the new controls, it'll require 3 wires spliced due to the new switch (obviously haha). Make sure you leave enough slack for it to reach all the way to where it needs to get.

 

The new harness was also missing the 3 horn plates seen here:

grounds.png

 

and the wire was a different color, the old one looked like this:

hornwire.png

 

and the new one was a bright orange while the old one is more of a beige than orange.

 

In order to connect all the horn plates and keep the same wire intact, I had to first strip away the wire wrap using a razor being careful not to cut the wires. Then I removed the blue wire lock by pushing in the 2 tabs on the side of the connector ( see image 1 for blue wire lock). Once this was off, I pushed the wire in and then used a very small flat head screw driver to push down on the top and bottom of the orange wire connector lead (if you look at the connector, you can see where the metal is through the plastic at one part, kinda like a window, that's where the hooks are) on the new harness to pull it out completely from the connector. Make sure you note the orientation of the wire so you can push it back in the right direction. I did the same on the old harness on the brownish wire that all the horn plates were attached to and then when it was out, I put it in the slot where the orange wire was on the new connector. Be sure to orient it properly so that the wire locks in place, if you can pull it straight back out you may need to bend the catch hooks back out so it catches. Instead of doing this, you can just cut it and splice again but I wanted to splice as few wires as possible.

 

Once you have these modifications made, you route wire harness back into the harness retention clips on the cover and then put the audio controls on your wheel and reassemble according to the directions in the autowoods video. Pop the wheel back on and you're good to go!

 

The only thing I don't like is that I had to cut my stock wheel shroud to fit the part because I couldn't find a part listing for it anywhere. If you have one, please share it so I can order this and use it!

 

Hope this helps anyone else who doesn't want to order a full wheel. Took me about 2 hours in all and cost me around $40 including shipping. I would probably have been better served just ordering a new wheel as my shroud wasn't cut perfectly and I'd still like to get a new one.

 

Sorry this post is so long... and only my second one at that! haha

tobias Senior Enthusiast

tobias

Posted
Posted

Don't strike the shaft with a BFH!! Had a friend do this and crushed the column. I guess there is like a crush sleeve in there for safety if you have an accident and he collapsed his. Use the puller!!

 

 

I didn't say hit it like you were trying to split a log. :lol:

 

It'll be fine with a nice firm hit.

rvaldron Enthusiast

rvaldron

Posted
Posted

ok so I went to use bluetooth this morning and every time I said bluetooth it took me to onstar calling, does this mean I still need additional parts to get the bluetooth working in my 2011 silverado? I thought I could just connect the audio controls and have it work...

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