Jump to content



Photo
- - - - -

07 Classic Or 07 New Body Style?


This topic has been archived. This means that you cannot reply to this topic.
68 replies to this topic

#1 THE BIGPUNN

THE BIGPUNN

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 705 posts
  • Location:michigan
  • Gender:Male
  • Drives:2007 Cadillac Escalade ESV

Posted 05 April 2007 - 03:54 PM

well fellas, i am considering trading in my bigblock. i drive 15,000 mile per year and think i will double my fuel mileage with a diesel. my local dealer has an 07 classic just like my current truck with the diesel in it. i seen the sticker on the brand new body style and cant afford it. i think i may be in the payment ball park with a classic. especially if the dealer is dealing on classics. i see some of you have gotten 07 classics. are the dealers "dealing" on them or not? i owe on my current truck what kbb lists trade-in as, so there shouldnt be any negative equity to be concerned with.

i guess i need help at the negotiation table. i thought sticker was 43k on it. i can get the gm supplier discount $3,000 and i have $1,000 extra to put down on it. if the interest rates are still low and the dealer comes down a few grand i may be there. how are you other new classic owners doing on the deals?

im gonna check, i think sticker is 43,500. without tax added, i need to be at 35,500 to make it work. all i have is $4,000. i need the dealer to come down another $4,000. is that unreasonable? by the way this will be my 3rd gm in 5 years and i just bought an 06 envoy from them.

dont mean to be so long winded, also what is the difference between the new lmm dmax and the classic lbz 07 dmax?

Edited by THE BIGPUNN, 05 April 2007 - 04:25 PM.

Posted Image

2007 Cadillac Escalade ESV (Big B)

1998 Harley Davidson Road King Anniversary

PAST TRUCKS
1999 Gmc Sierra 1500 Ext. Cab
2003 Gmc Sierra 8.1L Crew Cab (Black Dog)
2007 Chevy Silverado Duramax Crew Cab (Azul)
2008 GMC Sierra 1500 Crewcab (My boy blue)

#2 2010 LTZ Z-71

2010 LTZ Z-71

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 567 posts

Posted 05 April 2007 - 04:42 PM

No brag, but I can buy any damned truck I want and I pay cash. Personally, I chose the Classic.

Reasons: I'm not a kid who needs the newest, coolest. I'm an old man who wants a time-proved body design, minimal emissions restrictions and a great engine. The 2006-2007 Classic fits the bill perfectly, so that is what I bought.

Having driven mine for a while, it is flawless and I'm totally convinced that I made the right choice.

I believe that you will love the Classic.

Differences between the LMM and LBZ: In a word, body design, a bit of plastic wood on the dash and added emissions garbage (a HOT particulate trap). No thanks, I'll stick to old design.

Friend, one added piece of an old man's advice. Buy the 2007 Duramax and leave it stock. If you follow the threads on DieselPlace, most of the problems are after adding power enhancing chips, cranking the t-bars, lifting and other mods. Then, they cry because it's broke and the warrenty will not cover the repair. Friend, this is one fabulously engineered truck; just drive the SOB and be happy.

Stock, it will set you well back in your seat and bring one Hell of a grin to your face. Enjoy it.

Steve

Edited by dogzapper, 05 April 2007 - 04:49 PM.


#3 mschuyler

mschuyler

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 179 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 05 April 2007 - 06:26 PM

i guess i need help at the negotiation table. i thought sticker was 43k on it. i can get the gm supplier discount $3,000 and i have $1,000 extra to put down on it. if the interest rates are still low and the dealer comes down a few grand i may be there. how are you other new classic owners doing on the deals?


I bought a Classic 07 last month for invoice minus rebate, so invoice minus $1250. I've seen some guys get better deals. Oh, well. Local sticker was $47, invoice $40ish, I paid just under $39. Truck is Xcab Long Bed, 4WD, LT3 leather, OnStar, towing, skid plate, limited slip, auto fold mirrors, duramax. I think that's all that's on it, It's loaded with all but sunroof. I paid cash, too--don't know if that had an effect or not. They didn't hassle me about a personal check, either--figured they would. Tried to use my check card to get air miles, but they wouldn't go for that. Don't blame them, it's over 2% :-) Had a good salesman--no B.S., no "dealer packs," and he worked hard to get my folding mirrors.

I agree with dogzapper. Buy the last of the tried and true old stuff before you jump in on the first of the new stuff. LTZ is a tested reliable engine. We simply do not know about the LMM yet. It MAY be as well, but we don't know. The 900 style is little changed on the outside, but has a cool new dash if you like those sorts of things. But for $5K more I'll stick with the old dash. There are plenty of gadgets to keep you occupied. First tank (lots of idling) 16.7 MPG. I expect to do better as it breaks in.

I stuck Big Country wheel to wheel bars (I'm 6 feet, but had to use a parachute to get out), Linex, and Putco railings on mine. It's Victory Red, Zaino'd and will turn heads for some time to come. You'll be happy with a Classic. Go for it. (BTW, Classic has the 5 yr/100K warranty just like the new ones do.)

Dogzapper, shall I hide my cocker spaniel from you?

Edited by mschuyler, 05 April 2007 - 06:35 PM.


#4 2010 LTZ Z-71

2010 LTZ Z-71

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 567 posts

Posted 05 April 2007 - 08:20 PM

i guess i need help at the negotiation table. i thought sticker was 43k on it. i can get the gm supplier discount $3,000 and i have $1,000 extra to put down on it. if the interest rates are still low and the dealer comes down a few grand i may be there. how are you other new classic owners doing on the deals?


I bought a Classic 07 last month for invoice minus rebate, so invoice minus $1250. I've seen some guys get better deals. Oh, well. Local sticker was $47, invoice $40ish, I paid just under $39. Truck is Xcab Long Bed, 4WD, LT3 leather, OnStar, towing, skid plate, limited slip, auto fold mirrors, duramax. I think that's all that's on it, It's loaded with all but sunroof. I paid cash, too--don't know if that had an effect or not. They didn't hassle me about a personal check, either--figured they would. Tried to use my check card to get air miles, but they wouldn't go for that. Don't blame them, it's over 2% :-) Had a good salesman--no B.S., no "dealer packs," and he worked hard to get my folding mirrors.

I agree with dogzapper. Buy the last of the tried and true old stuff before you jump in on the first of the new stuff. LTZ is a tested reliable engine. We simply do not know about the LMM yet. It MAY be as well, but we don't know. The 900 style is little changed on the outside, but has a cool new dash if you like those sorts of things. But for $5K more I'll stick with the old dash. There are plenty of gadgets to keep you occupied. First tank (lots of idling) 16.7 MPG. I expect to do better as it breaks in.

I stuck Big Country wheel to wheel bars (I'm 6 feet, but had to use a parachute to get out), Linex, and Putco railings on mine. It's Victory Red, Zaino'd and will turn heads for some time to come. You'll be happy with a Classic. Go for it. (BTW, Classic has the 5 yr/100K warranty just like the new ones do.)

Dogzapper, shall I hide my cocker spaniel from you?


Mike,

Naw, you don't need to hide your cocker from me. Actually, my Scottie is laying on the floor by me right now. The name is part of my e-mail address; I wrote articles for gun/hunting magazines for many years and part of that was killing prairie dogs and coyotes (both called "dogs.")

Victory Red????? Man, I absolutely LOVE Victory Red. Graystone Metallic is pretty cool, but Victory Red trumps it in a heartbeat.

Enjoy your truck, my friend. I surely love mine.

Steve

#5 mini1

mini1

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 672 posts

Posted 05 April 2007 - 08:28 PM

NBS without question. Why pay to buy something new that is already outdated? If you want a GMT-800 then go get a used one. Let someone else take the hit for you in value. I just don't see any reason to buy old when you can buy new, especially when the old is really based on a design from the mid-90's. If you know how to play the dealer pricing game then you can get the NBS for invoice or less. The NBS is MUCH better.

#6 Bruce 2011 2500HD

Bruce 2011 2500HD

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 546 posts

Posted 05 April 2007 - 08:42 PM

Even though I don't have a TD I did buy an 07 Classic HD with the 6.0L and 4.10's and I believe I made the right choice. I got rid of an 03 1500 for the HD. I have never been one to buy the first model year of anything. I could have gotten a NBS 1500 Z71, but not for less than what I paid for my 07 Classic 2500HD. I am a fan of the tried and true platform and it's nothing against the new ones at all. I'm sure the NBS over time will be great trucks and I do like them a lot, but the Classics are great trucks too! Where I bought my truck they are having more people call about the Classics then they are the NBS's. I know the sales manager and talk to him in the gym every morning. The Classics still have so much to offer and are still great trucks regardless of what some may say. Go one Edmunds.com and do a head to head comparison of Classics vs the F150's and Rams and you'll see they still hold their own and then some even on 90's technology as some may say.
Bruce
20011 Silverado 2500HD LTZ 6.0L Z71
2010 Harley Davidson FXDC

#7 2010 LTZ Z-71

2010 LTZ Z-71

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 567 posts

Posted 05 April 2007 - 10:47 PM

Yup, leave the NBS to the young 'uns, who have to have the new stuff and and pay through the nose to be GM's BETA Testers.

When you've owned and driven trucks for over fifty years, new-style is not necessarily better and first year is usually totally cursed.

Steve

#8 ToeJam

ToeJam

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 347 posts
  • Location:Kirkland, WA

Posted 05 April 2007 - 11:28 PM

I paid invoice for my truck, before incentives ($2k) and I still got $4K over KKB trade-in value for my Ford...so they're dealing the classics.

My opinion is to never buy anything the first year out. GM has bunch of new widgets in their trucks now with the redesign and a DPF on the back side of the LMM. I'm glad to see that folks are still getting decent mileage out of their LMMs...but you never know if a "PowerStroke flame thrower" problem is on the horizon.

I say either get a Classic at a price you can live with or wait a year for GM to burp the new trucks and get a '08.
...Stu

Current Rig: 2007 "Classic" GMC 2500 CC, SB D/A
Former Rig: 2005 F-150 FX4
Former, Former Rig: 2003 GMC Sierra Denali
In The Garage: 1966 C-10 with 86K miles
Next to Garage: 2007 Fleetwood Arcadia Pop-up Camper

#9 HD2007

HD2007

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 292 posts

Posted 06 April 2007 - 12:41 AM

I am no young'un but I waited for the NBS 2007 simply for the 6sp tranny and the slightly improved 6L engine. I did not find out about two of the options I bought until I went to the dealer to order it - the integrated trailer brake controller and the safety pkg with the moving pedals and back-up sensors. So far I am very happy with the tranny - I love the tow/haul mode with grade brake - the transmission downshifts with brake application so the brakes work less, even with the tow/haul turned off, the controller applies the trailer brakes in direct proportion to the vehicle brakes, no grabbing, no delay. I tow a 5600lb travel trailer and for the most part the tranny runs in 5th or 6th with occasional shifts to 4th on grades - and will easily maintain 60MPH - even on the hills. The engine is just hitting its beat between 3 and 4000RPM.

#10 HD Sierra

HD Sierra

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 395 posts
  • Location:So ILL
  • Gender:Male

Posted 06 April 2007 - 08:40 AM

I've had my Classic for a week...I got a $3250 rebate (don't know if it iis still going on) and the new body had $1000...then I got a dealer discount and I traded a Ford F250 V10 manual. They gave me $2300 more than any Ford dealer would on a new Ford.

They had one new body style on the lot and two classics...they kind of pointed me towward the classics, so it seemd like they wanted to get ride of them....my son used to sell Chevys and he said that when they push a vehicle it is generally because there are special factory incentives to the salesperson.

If you are $4000 away, low ball them at $6000 ans let them work on it....I was able to negotiate the price I really wanted, but it took 4 hours....I started with rediculous requests, like I wanted $40k for my Ford.....then I laughed to let them know I was kidding, but it forced them to consider a serious offer....

They had a nice used 06 almost exactly like mine, but with the GM rebate, I paid less than it would hav ecost for the used one....go figure...good luck
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
2011 GMC Sierra HD 2500
6.0 (gas), 4x4, 3.73, Ext
2013 Flagstaff "V" Nose, 7300#

#11 Doug 97SS

Doug 97SS

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 30 posts

Posted 06 April 2007 - 08:45 AM

well fellas, i am considering trading in my bigblock. i drive 15,000 mile per year and think i will double my fuel mileage with a diesel. my local dealer has an 07 classic just like my current truck with the diesel in it. i seen the sticker on the brand new body style and cant afford it. i think i may be in the payment ball park with a classic. especially if the dealer is dealing on classics. i see some of you have gotten 07 classics. are the dealers "dealing" on them or not? i owe on my current truck what kbb lists trade-in as, so there shouldnt be any negative equity to be concerned with.

i guess i need help at the negotiation table. i thought sticker was 43k on it. i can get the gm supplier discount $3,000 and i have $1,000 extra to put down on it. if the interest rates are still low and the dealer comes down a few grand i may be there. how are you other new classic owners doing on the deals?

im gonna check, i think sticker is 43,500. without tax added, i need to be at 35,500 to make it work. all i have is $4,000. i need the dealer to come down another $4,000. is that unreasonable? by the way this will be my 3rd gm in 5 years and i just bought an 06 envoy from them.

dont mean to be so long winded, also what is the difference between the new lmm dmax and the classic lbz 07 dmax?


You might be close with your numbers. The Classic body style is definitely a worthy truck and for the price difference its a d**n good buy. The nice thing about the 07 Classic Diesel is it doesn't have the extra components to meet the more stringent EPA regs.

Duramax is an awesome engine. Great power etc...ANd there are quite a few companies out there that offer some good stuff for it. Personally i like Gale Banks Diesel stuff. I personally think he makes the best stuff for the Diesel engine.

Good luck. If you can get a Classic with a Duramax you can still pull buildings over. Plus there are a LOT of accessories available for that model as well.

#12 Truckman031

Truckman031

    Senior Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 1,917 posts
  • Location:Georgia

Posted 06 April 2007 - 10:29 AM

Go for the classic, because you know you can probably afford it. I would never buy a new truck in its first year out. My uncle bought an 01 Duramax that turned out to be a lemon. I know they happen, but the first year trucks seem to have a better shot. Also, the GMT900 are a good bit different than the 800s, so there is alot of new stuff that can have problems. Like dogzapper said, let other people pay sticker price or close to it to be testers. BTW, there is nothing wrong with a 90s design. I like my 98 better than the new 1/2 tons.
2005 Silverado Crew Cab LT Z-71

#13 Peter Parley

Peter Parley

    Enthusiast

  • Newbie
  • 2 posts

Posted 06 April 2007 - 11:07 AM

Just went through the same thing. Ended up buying new style. Went back and forth, and either one would've worked, but couldn't find the old style in the configuration that I needed. Besides, like the look of the new one better.

But the point of my post is to recommending pluging in some numbers at Edmunds.com. Go for the price quote, put in all the info on the truck, and they'll give you the MSRP, the invoice, and what they call the "true market value" -- an average of what most people pay for the truck. Gave me confidence going into the dealership, and allowed me to gauge my deal.

If you don't make a note of all of the options while you're at the dealership, you can find the window sticker of the truck at GMC.com, under "Locate your GMC."

#14 mschuyler

mschuyler

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 179 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 06 April 2007 - 01:34 PM

Take a look at carsdirect.com, too. I was all over the Net, but carsdirect is who got me to my dealer. I don't know if the referral was the reason, but this was about the best deal I have ever done on a new vehicle: Brett Chevrolet, Kent, WA. Absolutely no BS. They made an offer, I said no, so they said, "Well, where do you want to be?" I told them and they said Okay. they didn't try to sell me "dealer packs" like undercoating or paint sealant. They asked one time if I were interested in the extended warranty program. I said "No," and they dropped the issue immediately. They didn't bat an eye that I paid by personal check. the salesman worked the entire area to find me one with auto-folding mirrors (My garage is tight.) The truck was ready and spotless when they said with a FULL tank of gas (er, "fuel") which I thought was classy. I figured on an eighth of a tank. The salesman found a hose to the radiator was allowing water to leak and fixed it on the spot. He could have ignored it; I thought it was just typical. My Acura leaks every day. My price was $8K off their local sticker. I figure I got a reasonable deal and so did they, not as good as some, but still pretty good. It help if you know exactly what you want and are familiar with the option packages, their codes, etc.

#15 Rock Hopper

Rock Hopper

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 19 posts
  • Location:Washington
  • Gender:Male

Posted 06 April 2007 - 02:55 PM

I Never pay over invoice for a vehicle. Invoice price is not what a dealer pays for vehicle's despite what most people think. Dealerships get all kinds of incentives for selling cars and trucks and will make a lot off you even if you buy it at invoice price. The problem is they won't go that much under invoice because there are so many fools out there that will pay full price so why sell it to you for less.

First, pick out the truck you want. Then go to NADA.com (because it's the standard) and get the invoice of the truck. If the dealership is quality they will list the invoice along with the MSRP. You'll notice they will probably have some extra shipping fee's on the invoice. Just their way of sucking more money out of you. Don't ever pay them.

A dealer is going to be more willing to work with you at the end of the month especially if they haven't met their sales quota. When you go in have a price in your head that you are willing to pay. Tell them that you are shopping around and will be going to other dealerships so you want their best price. If they want your business thay'll give you a good price. If it's not at/below invoice or what you are willing to pay then give them your figure. If they can't match it WALK OUT. Go to another dealership and try again.

It works for me every time. If your willing to drive a little contact dealerships in your region online and you'll get an even better deal. I was suprised how many replies I got from Mazda dealers when I filled out their online request.

Good luck to ya and keep us updated.

P.S. If the MSRP is 43k the invoice should be well under 40k. Just an idea I just figured a 2007 with everything my truck has and the MSRP was $42,518. The invoice is $37,598.

Edited by Rock Hopper, 06 April 2007 - 03:04 PM.

My rigs:

2006 Chevrolet 2500 HD 4x4 Crew Cab SB - 6.6 Duramax
2005 Mazda RX-8 - fun car
2002 Pontiac Grand Am GT