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Made a custom fuse/relay panel for my behind the grill light bar and any future upgrades. Mounted it in the spare battery tray. Hopefully gonna get the light bar put in tomorrow. More pics to follow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just got my truck detailed looks ? ? ? ?

I'd be happy to share my latest calibration too. Literally haven't touched spark or fueling at all. I've tried many variations of cam timing too, but I'll just share a tune that's basically stock except Driver demand, DFCO, PE, and lots of trans changes. I actually have had great success in LOWERING the values in the Driver demand table. I left the top row alone to ensure I would get 100% pedal when I want it, but the rest has been greatly reduced. On the stock settings it was just far too aggressive and jumpy. I didn't mind it because it felt real torquey! But it got old quick because it was unpredictable and not very smooth. I studied up on the Corvette driver demand tables and started with just copy and pasting right over. The result was very nice, but it was a bit too subdued! Since then I've finessed it and I think it's almost perfect now. You can easily modulate the throttle and with DFCO completely disabled it makes for very smooth transitions. On the trans side, I keep the TC completely unlocked until 6th gear, so right around 30 mph. I also tried many many combos of shift scheduling and found that I just like the stock schedule the most. I dont think it was ever the problem. I think the goofy lockup schedule, jumpy driver demand, and aggressive DFCO made it so clunky and awkward as you transition from accelerate to coast to accelerate. I really look forward to dialing in my MAF tables and VE because I'm sure it'll get EVEN better. Didn't mean to type all that, I'm just excited that you're getting to make significant changes in driveability and want to share what's worked for me.

She's dirty but got some non-driveway pics today Sent from S10 using Tapatalk

Detail guy had for two days to do the Ceramic coating and had them remove the Trail Boss decals.... My god this thing shines now. Pics don't do it justice. He also must have coated the running boards. I almost killed myself getting in. lol Gonna take another look over the weekend. Came out amazing though.

As title states selling my HP tuner Pro edition tuning software. I used this on my 2018 LT4 superchargered GMC Sierra with no issues. I have all the pieces that come with the pro edition. I will give the buyer access to my online account to change the registration information and password. This tuner comes with no credits so you will need to purchase credits to tune your vehicle. Sale includes: VCM scanner that connects to OBD II port MVPI2 pro-link cable VCM scanner data cable USB flash drive Neck lanyard I will post up more pictures shortly but this picture summarizes everything I am selling. Asking 475 shipped OBO. Thanks

Did my second oil change on the truck last night and first one I did myself. 11,760 miles and 10% OLM after having it changed at 5,000 miles at the dealer for the 1st free oil change and service. Underneath the truck it was nice and wide open and the oil plug points down better than my last Silverado. 15 mm socket for the oil drain plug. Oil filter was also easy to change with my 3 prong oil filter wrench. Reaching into the engine bay was a stretch to hold my funnel and pour in the oil. I need a different funnel and it will be easier. 8 quarts of Mobil1 full synthetic Dexos 5W-30 and AC Delco PF63E oil filter. Tire rotation this weekend. This will be the first of many oil changes at home for this truck. In 3 days will be a year from when I took it for my first test drive and bought it a week later.

FANTASIC pic!! ??

https://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/oil-filter-wrench/performance-tool-3-leg-adjustable-oil-filter-wrench/114009_0_0?spps.s=6891&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:OIL:71700000060668398&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtZH7BRDzARIsAGjbK2ZcNZ39uFmiwh7WPHxP3lVV4WMA7_kEGSzTbcnVewaDfKhUV1OVq5caAtcpEALw_wcB If you search 3 prong oil filter wrench you can find them on Amazon too. I've had that since my 2005 1500HD and needed one to fit where that oil filter was tucked up in.

Just picked up a 2014 Z71 to replace my last truck which got totaled. Can't wait to start playing around with this one.

Car has been in the shop getting some gremlins exercised, going to pick it back up tomorrow.

If you like the Tahoe that much, I'm sure you can find a credible shop willing to install a set for less than 10K.

FYI for anyone who cares... Per GM, The thermostat starts to open 201F and is fully open 232F.

Just did finished this up this week, replaced parking lights and flashers, got hyper flash and then installed the Sylvania resistors from oriellys. Worked like a charm, needed 4 resistors one for each light.

I have the weathertech mud flaps front and rear. They make a big difference on keeping the spray down on the sides of the truck, and super easy to install. Well worth the money

Here is how I do my trans fluid. I dropped the pan and changed the filter the first time at 65k. The fluid that came out looked like hot chocolate. Ever since then I have been changing 1 gallon of fluid through the dipstick tube using a hand operated vacuum pump every 15k miles. The fluid looks great now and like mentioned above only takes a few minutes to do. I've attached a few pics so you can get an idea. The first tubing that I stick down in the trans dipstick tube is bought from Home Depot, I think it's PTFE tubing. Same as the tubing for your refrigerator but bigger diameter to match the rubber tubing of the hand operated vacuum pump.

I always give the repair shop first crack at fixing any issue after a repair. Its the best way to find out if the shop is good or not.

It's not the 20's, it's the diesel... You really can't tow a decently sized 5th wheel with a diesel 2500 - not enough payload. Now the 2020 trucks are a little different because they have a higher GVWR and much better payload when properly equipped. My gas Denali only has a GVWR of 9500#, but my payload is 2560# - 400# more that the higher GVWR/Diesel. Also depends on 5er model - our Cougar 32BHS has a lighter pin weight of 1570#, so were good with stuff/gas and payload.

thank you! that is helpful...around here, all i can find is 'primitive' camp sites...they are at state parks, but its a mowed spot, with a picnic table and a grill and a concrete slab...not 'dispersed camping'!!

9/18/2020 1,0000 Mile Oil Level Check Hunky Dory

I have the Borla touring exhaust and really like it. Mainly purchased it due to price over GM. Stealer-ship wanted $2200 , while the Borla was $1500 installed locally. Definitely notice a slight drone at 65-70 but I'm getting used to it. I've got 1,000 miles on it and seems like the tones of the exhaust are getting better. Noticeable difference when i switch from touring to sport mode, which is great.

I'm a firm believer in flushing as long as the transmission fluid is not burnt. When flushed PROPERLY it is SAFE and works. VERY well. My shop uses this. As do many other shops. FYI BG invented this safe method. No over pressurizing of the system. no damage. Watch: Older machine, but same idea. The vehicle's tranny pump does most of the work, pumping in new while pumping out the old. No over-pressurizing. Why I like flushing vs drain and fill? Flushing gets 99% of the old stuff out where as drain and fill just keeps contaminating old with new. What a waste. Only time I would do drain and fill is if the tranny has been abused and the fluid smells burnt. But an abused tranny with burnt fluid is going to be on the verge of failure as-is so what does it hurt to flush i sometimes wonder. Also, most vehicles now use screens instead of filters. The flush method cleans the screen in the process, so no need to replace the screen.

Got the other half of the RAS installed and everything cranked down tight. The back end sits almost an inch higher than before the install and so instead of being level it now has a rake to it.

Just wish they'd throw in vented seats to the Z71 trims. I have no idea why they're so stingy with those considering the price of the vehicle.

Here’s my 2018 Silverado z71 that has a 4 inch lift with method NVs wrapped in a 295/70/17 toyo open country R/T, also has morimoto XB LED headlights with a blackout grille. Also still looking for a skid plate for the front, found a few but not sure if there worth the $500+

The idea of using a separate battery to power lots of neat electrical stuff, but not drain the battery you need to operate your truck has a lot of merit, and has been done before. In fact, the separate battery attached to the truck battery by an isolator diode is the simplest solution. Having to recharge a deep discharge battery when it dies is a lot of work. After all, how do you know when it needs recharging? Then there is the connecting and disconnecting the charger (After opening the hood, of course). Using the isolator guarantees the separate battery will always be recharged once you start the engine. Let me explain. A vehicle battery is considered charged up when it is at 12.6 Volts DC with the engine off. Your alternator puts out a voltage greater than 14 Volts DC when the engine is running (How high depends on battery state and other elecrical demands). The isolator diode will charge the separate battery once the charging voltage is greater than 0.6 Volts DC greater than the separate battery voltage. If the separate battery had been discharged down to 12.4 Volts DC, that would happen at 13 Volts DC.

Looked underneath it and see no reason why it should not be working. The tilt function works fine. Will definitely be taking it in to a dealership as soon as I get a chance to.

With a diesel engine the type of driving is more important than the miles driven. Diesel is a very dirty fuel as compared to gasoline and even with 98.7% filtration there are still 240,000 particles that get past the filter media and hit the injector solenoids at very high pressure and some of these get into the motor oil. Someone who drives mostly short trips of less than 30 minutes duration is going to need the oil changed much sooner than a truck that is driven mostly on the highway with trips of an hour or more in duration. Consider the first situation and driving on average at 30 mph as compared to the second situation with an average speed of 60 mph. The first truck driven for 6,000 miles will have 200 engine hours as compared to the second truck with 100 engine hours and the first truck's engine will have been driven with the engine cold for a much greater percentage of the time. The DIC determines oil changes based on driving pattern for that vehicle and is a better indicator than an abstract number. In addition with modern engines and modern motor oils, especially those that meet the new API SP specification, hold up far better and even truck fleet operators are greatly extending change intervals for their trucks.

If it’s small enough, just do it yourself. If it’s only in the clear, touch up with clear. If it’s through the paint, use the white. I’ve had to do quite a few little spots on mine. Nothing I would pay someone to do when you can get it to be almost unnoticeable by yourself with a $15 bottle of paint from GM.

If it were me, again, just my opinion, I'd suck out the 5 qts out the dip stick tube, leaving the OE filter in place, fill with new Dexron VI ATF & run that for 500-1000 miles, then do a pan off drain with new filter & fluid. I don't particularly like a "flush", but that's me. There are some that will do a flush. The filter only catches the "big stuff" & the full synthetic Dexron ATF is pretty good stuff. I've done my BMW X3 with GM 6 speed (France) @ 130k miles & to be honest, the filter & fluid looked pretty good. It's my understanding that the pan is a PIA to get off due to the exhaust pipe. Several good videos on Youtube have DIY hacks on how to pull the pipe down enough to slide the pan out. I do it the easy way, suck it out the dip stick & refill to keep the fluid fresh. It also pulls out the partials that are suspended in the fluid & giving a "refresh" to the fluid. I also add a bottle of LubeGard Platinum. Again, just my procedure.

Complete drain and fill, or the drop the pan and top off with 6-7 quarts method?

Good for you! The American west is full of public land like this. This was taken in the White River National Forest somewhere between Silverthorne and Vail, Colorado. Look for public lands and read the regulations. “Dispersed camping” is allowed in most of the National forests.

Yes there are.

Yes the 0w20 is thin for our motors. Up there in Canada if you wanted you could use a 0w30 to help with the cold starts but I would be concerned with the 20 weight oil once up to temp. It states right in the owners manual to use either the 5w30 or 0w30 for temps below -20 F

the fuel mgmt, not available for 6.2 10 speed, Thought you may have one and could be the issue.

Well didn’t do it today, but over the weekend. Swapped my cubbyhole panel for one I modded for my switch pod. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Lol thats fair and I can respect your fervor to do so Sent from my SM-G986U1 using Tapatalk

Powder coated the tow hooks and did an HD hood.

I added some new wheels!

Finished my boost gauge pod today, just need to run the wires thru the firewall

If a lift kit has cv spacers its going to widen track width. Mcgaughys is on a 2 to 4 week back order. I currently have the 5inch RC bracket lift with a 2 inch level to make it 7 and a add a leaf in the rear also a zone 1.5 body lift on my 2018. I'm running 22x12 -51 offset with 35/12.50/22 no rubbing. I know a lot of people rag on RC but I've not had any issues with my kit. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

There is a first gen joke, there are more now than there were in 69. Saw a 69 SS yesterday, caged and tubbed, the SS was upside down. Struggled with if I should tell him at the stoplight. Sunday I stopped by a dealership to check out the new red pearl they have on the Colorados and Camaros(bit of a let down, looks just like Garnett.I was hoping it would be like the Japanese pearl reds that pop so much in sun

It’s interesting to me all the complaining with the interior. I’ve got the 8” screen and while the analog buttons seem a bit out of place, the interior is light years better than my last 3 trucks. I guess it’s all relative. We’re officially in a time where a truck is measured by unlock buttons and screen size. Loving my ‘19 Sierra Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have one of these and it works great. https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-87021-No-Spill-Funnel-Pack/dp/B0771KVLF3

I've got a 2002 Chevy Venture with 326,000 miles. I'm adding about 3,000-ish miles per month. runs great, best vehicle I've ever owned.

i have a 2003 chevy 1500 silverado with a 4.8l with 327,000 miles on it has factor motor had transmission rebuilt at 220,000.i use the truck to haul cars and stuff on my car trailer and still runs great

At 299,996 miles my rear diff went. got another 14 bolt 9.5" rearend with 3.72 gears just like the old one for 100$ from junk yard At 300,02X the passenger tire cambered in so bad from a worn c/v axle that it rode the brakes to the point of a small flame and ruined a 37" toyo. $1000 later (more than half that was new tools, air tools mainly so i wasnt to mad) back on the road but now im leaking coolant out of the hose going to the oil cooling system with that wierd fitting. But this truck will be new or totalled before i quit on her..

Another picture...

Yeah, the Bose sub must be all of 4”. I guess short of redoing the whole system this was probably the best option. Anyway, think I finally got this thing cracked. Anyone who has tried it without the knob knows that the knob is both a bass killer, but it also makes the thing usable. So I’ve hacked it. The knob is is just a 20k potentiometer with a 500 ohm resistor that forms the base resistance of the circuit. The pot increases resistance from there, up to a maximum of roughly 20.5k ohms (20k pot plus the .5k resistor). So again, at the low bass setting, the amp reads a resistance of 500 ohms from the aux cable, and at max bass 20.5k. Keeping this in mind, I had an idea. Using some little 10k resistors I had lying around in the parts bin, I formed a test. I removed the stock 500 ohm base resistor and replaced it with a 10k resistor. This effectively makes the baseline (knob all the way down) resistance 10k. That 10k measure on a stock knob is about midway. But the big thing was that the max was now up to 30k instead of 20. And in the new max position, sure enough, the amp gain increased beyond what the original max would have been with the unaltered knob. Taking it a step further, I soldered TWO 10k resistors in series and brought the baseline to 20k. Keep in mind that used to be roughly the max the amp would see from the knob, and now it is the minimum. So with the knob all the way down, it behaves as it did with the knob all the way up previously. And beyond that, the ceiling is now 40k. With this setting, I was able to reduce the bass on the head unit further and still really get some major production out of the sub. I downloaded an sound app to confirm that the amp was reading and responding to the new range from the modded knob. But of course the difference was also easy to hear. Attached are screen shots of the same part of the same song, same volume, same test location, same head unit EQ. Nothing too scientific but something to look at. One is taken at the low end on the modded knob (equivalent to the max of the stock knob) and the other at the new high of 40k, or double what the old one would have been. Measures about a 10db difference right near the sub.

Got a seat lay over for $28 from ebay. Doesn't fit the best but protects the seat from the car seats and toddlers spills. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk