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Said farewell to mine. It was bitter sweet. For a 2021 Silverado LT. Will start tearing it apart soon [emoji51] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wish there was a way to pin some messages on this thread. Here are a few that every new reader needs to read: 1. Yes, if you have a rear slider your window WILL leak. Period. (you may last longer if you live in a desert) 2. Yes, your window will eventually leak again if the dealer "seals it". 3. No, your replacement window is not some new, unicorn design that will finally solve this. I realize I'm taking some liberty with the finality of statements #2 & #3, but those claims hold up pretty well on this 180+ page thread.

Sorry, I had too! ?

Now I understand

Posted in another thread, but installed the Eibach lift front and rear.

When I go surfing and snowboarding I hate taking my key. I've lost one on a powder day and had to get my in-laws to bring the spare up to the mountain. Plus camping or running out to the truck you don't have to remember the fob every time. They also cost allot when you lose one. My buddies with Ford's have these keypads and they get to leave theirs in the truck.

None taken GBear!, After reading your last missive, I guess my next mod, which was an extra engine oil cooler coming off the other end of the bracket is a no-go. Here in Abilene, TX the summers get into the 110-115 degree a lot. So I was gonna cool the engine even more. Guess I'll put that oil cooler on the Trany..... Anyway, Y'all stay safe, trouble is on the horizon if U been keeping up with the pols lately. PQTUS will straighten them out. Purolator Pure One PL22500 or AMSOIL filter EaO34, decisions decisions..... ") I'll post pictures after the Mod, maybe a couple of days, Friday supposed to get up to 60 during the day. I'm out jd

Yup, I just followed the TSB linked above. There was another pdf on how to drop the headliner I'll post it here. Headliner.pdf Bought a tube of my own Kent Sealant. I took the whole headliner down. Left the spoiler on at first and water tested with a hose. I had a leak from one of the spoiler holes. Bad gasket from one of the retainers. My leak was different after I took it in to GM. My first leak was down the corners like everyone here. After the fix, the leak was coming from inside the headliner because I would go through a car wash and it would be fine. Then the first hard stop in traffic, my headliner corner would be soaked. Water was pooling on the top side of the headliner. I suspect the tech wasn't careful and mutilated the gasket accidentally. I ordered a new retainer from GM. It comes with the gasket. But I still had a slight trickle of water on the driver side. There was some sealant missing or fairly thin near and above the slider itself. But the left and right corners had plenty of sealant. So I just filled in the middle top section with more sealant until it was level to the top of the glass. And that fixed the leak. I realized that even though the leak was dripping on the inside driver side rear. The source of the water was travelling from the center top of the sliding window. I suspect the adhesive they (Fuyao) used to glue the glass to the plastic frame is either poor quality or not done right. Be happy to help anyone wanting to do this themselves.

Got a little mud on the tires. New tires are great in the snow Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Final update that may help some and infuriate us all: Local glass guys got together, some of these guys have been doing this for 30+ years, and studied the aftermarket window from ATI. They actually got two of them in. They said it is not a solution and there were a number of reasons why. Advised me to avoid that route. Some of their techs have been doing these repairs for GM dealers and have relationships with upper management at GM. The word from GM is that they are very aware of this, but they have no intention of making a permanent fix at this point. Its TSB sealant, then replace glass, then sealant, etc. Until the owner is out of their 36K bumper to bumper, then they are holding the owner responsible. This may change, hope it does, because it is not a good look for GM. This glass company said they were shocked at GM's position and they will not buy any GM product for their fleet simply due to GM's handling of this issue. They also work on other brands and other brands are having similar issues, but they are being addressed properly (Tundra, Ford, Ram). Basically, if you aren't already aware, GM does not care about their consumers. Lastly, their best tech that has done dozens of these repairs, advised the most successful repair is to replace the glass and at the same time to perform the TSB sealant. It adds some structure and stability, but is still only a temporary fix but should last longer. Their next advice, once you are out of warranty, is to simply install fixed glass or trade/sell.

I'm surprised there isn't a class action yet.

#4. GM is a bunch of friggin' idiots for letting this go on for over 3 model years with no end in sight.

In response to your PM: I expect you don't know this. Mobil gets 20,000 miles out of that filter series by letting dogs and cats through. Somewhere on the box in fine print, get out your magnifier, that 99.9% efficiency is referenced to 30 micron. The ISO 4548-12 standard is 20 micron. The GM wear test standard is a Beta Ratio of 75 or 98.7% but the reason is to find the smallest size that can be filtered with the efficiency or Beta Ratio as the reference. Then it's apples to apples. So how does the Mobil 1 do at a Beta of 75? 25 micron. In this forum go to and read Motor Oil / Filtration / 4 for the quick information then the other filtration post, #3 is an eyeopener for the nuts and bolts. I spent some hours on your current question last night to hand you the best possible solution but it's you truck. I'm just offering INFORMATION....which is different from opinion...isn't it?

New Truck??? Now you got people looking at New Truck's .

Just got my AMP Research Power Steps installed the other day. Also mounted my AVS Aeroskin Light Shield but haven't wired it up just yet (I'm NOT good with electrical, so still researching how to do it properly). Really love the look of these steps over the stock nerf steps!

-Toolbox is a UWS - Tires have held up remarkable well considering how much highway driving I do. No complaints so far. - 4" lift -35x12.50s clearing with no rub (wouldn't attempt spacers though) Thanks for the remarks! Can't say I don't enjoy looking at it while I am walking to it lol .

Not much has changed over the last few months, due to saving for a house and wedding next year. Snagged a cool pic from deer hunting a few months ago. Loving these Wildpeak 33's!

Only 56 pages? Rookies.?

Had my tow mirrors installed by the dealer as part of the sale deal. Also had them install the drivers door keypad lock accessory. I'm still getting used to the mirrors but over all I really like them, especially the cargo lights which I use when backing up at night. Now I can see my passenger rear corner better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

By the way, you'll want to torn of the courtesy light function. It turns on the mirror cargo lights which sit at near eye level. Blinded me the first time I got out. I'm not sure I'll wire the mirror cargo lights to reverse. I'm able to turn on cargo lamps manually when in reverse so I can choose when you get the extra light or not. For now I like that function but I am using them every night when I back in my driveway. It had helped a lot being able to see the passenger rear corner and avoid hitting the trash cans. I'm still getting used to the size and turning radius of the truck. Something interesting is I'm having to retrain myself some where the mirrors are when driving. The detail convex mirrors are on the bottom about where the stock small mirrors used to sit. You have to look up a lot higher for the main mirror on these. I also see cars in the passenger mirror sometimes and think they're right on me because they glass is so much bigger. I'll get used to it quick but these were noticeable changes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I mean, he tested motor oil and it wasn’t much better than nothing at all

well, you may not like my advice ? I see a lot of posts where the diode was just inserted into the connector and press fit against the pin. I would not do it that way, but doing it "right" requires some skills and tools. I would highly suggest soldering a short lead of wire onto the diode pins, heat shrink it, and splice that into the bcm wires either by soldering it in or using taps, which should be ok for an interior circuit (inside the cabin, reasonably free from moisture). why? that press fit is unreliable. you could end up with a poor connection. over time and bumps it could loosen up, you could end up with intermittent connectivity, the cargo lights flashing etc. the worst case though is pulling current through a poor connection, something that would be very hard to detect in this case...until it burns your truck to the ground. ok, we're talking about relay controls here, they are pretty low current. if you were trying to jumper some of the BCM circuits that directly drive lights and you're running a larger diode with a couple amps I'd tell you don't even think about doing it that way, you're just asking for a fire. with relay control you're passing milliamps through the diode, however a poor connection is still dangerous. now, it seems that tons of people have done this mod by just shoving the diode leads down the connector cavities and haven't had a problem, so you'd probably be just fine. but I wouldn't do it that way on my truck. completely up to you, stressing again this seems to be the go-to way of doing this and it seems to work safely. but just saying, if that relay draws 100mA on the coil, and you have a bad connection with the pin (which could even develop a couple years down the road should the diode leads get some surface corrosion on them or work their way loose over rough roads) that 100mA would be enough current to generate enough heat to char or melt the BCM connector or even start a fire. I'm an ECE (electrical/computer engineer) so I like to do this kind of thing the right way. I don't change vehicles very often so when I do a mod like this I do it so it will work safely and reliably for 200k miles and 10 or more years. Even if you are just pulling dozens of mA though a very poor connection, the leads can get hot enough to burn your fingers in a matter of seconds. Neither the diode nor the connector/pins on the BCM harness are designed for making electrical connections that way. At least on my projects, it's not a risk that I take. Not to mention, especially with the reverse lights/cargo lights mod, there is a long diode lead completely exposed, not insulated, and spanning across 2 connections in the picture in the first post. This could short against something and either cause mod failure, bizarre behavior (wrong lights coming on), or damage the BCM or its wiring. That is definitely not a good idea. At very very least, put some heat shrink or electrical tape over the exposed parts of the leads.

I'd just get whichever of the two is cheaper! with diodes there are 2 different voltages that are important when picking one out, the forward voltage is a voltage drop across the diode. you don't get that "one way valve" for free, you lose some voltage, usually 0.6-0.7V, no where near enough to cause a problem here, the voltage will still be plenty high to activate the relay. the other concern is the reverse voltage (this is probably the spec that you are looking at), a diode is a device which prevents the flow of current in one direction should there be a reverse biased voltage that it has to "hold back," how much voltage can it handle before possibly failing? This is a 12V circuit, even with the alternator in operation you're looking at 14-15V at most, so either of those should be just fine for the application.

Thanks man. I started using this one in the early 2000s when I was fixing boats. I was fascinated by the race boats so I came up with this screen name. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice! Over the past year I've refinanced mine and when I went to my credit union they said that they valued the truck at 30 whereas my loan was a few thousand beneath that. Colorado has quite a strange window for used trucks normally, but with 2020 winding down it has gotten even more random. You've done a lot of great work for the K2 platform, and we all thank you. I for one will be lurking around on the T1 forums to see what kind of magic you can bring to that generation of trucks as well. Thanks man [emoji106] Sent from my SM-G986U1 using Tapatalk

Hey Mercracing....Im in the boat business. Love your screen name. Good luck with the truck. A friend of mine had his heart set on a Dodge until he test drove a 6.2 Denali....as he put it, nothing beats The General!

Got $29k for it. Caravana offered $23k (they deducted for “market value”. Vroom offered $24k for it. I have a good friend that works for Toyota and usually buys at market value or better. He offered $26k for it. Other dealerships offered $25k - $26.5. Negotiated up to $29 after initial offer of $26. KBB’s trade value was at $29k - $33k with a media of $31k. But I know KBB is always inflated just to get you in the lot On the new truck, it had $4500 in rebates, plus employee pricing. No dealer add ons except for window tint. So it was almost $10k off MSRP. I always stalk my vin after trade to see what the list for. Usually $3k-$4k above what they bought it for but I understand they have to make $ too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk kit

I’m very excited to begin tearing this one apart! I carefully chose this one with a jump seat, power mirrors (manual fold) with Blind Spot, incandescent heads/tails on purpose. The console (if you get from GM), consists of several part #s is just like how the K2XX is. So I’m prepared for that. I’ll be working with my supplier on that and will hopefully make a coopere package like on K2XX. Push button Parking brake - annoying. LOL. 8k Funny what muscle memory will do even after 8k miles. Stay tuned! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/238565-my-upfitting/&share_tid=238565&share_fid=33003&share_type=t&link_source=app My upfitting Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

I will have to look tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure it looks like that. You are right. I sure didn't see it. I found a exploded diagram and it shows it. Thanks. I'll post up what I find tomorrow.

Yeah, I glanced at it and went straight for the pics. My bad. Do you happen to have one of the rubber piece and the back. I'm not sure if mine has that. I will have to go look again in the morning. I think they are all about the same from '15 - '19. It looks pretty close.

Thanks for the reply. So, what's it take to get the back cover off? Sorry, I didn't read it all. I found the easy ones. I will look again for the hidden screws.

Teaser Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

I'll be trying this ~$55 option once available https://9to5google.com/2020/09/07/android-auto-wireless-dongle-project/

It's under warranty, sounds like the dealer's problem to solve

fluid film was one of the top performers. it didn't hold up well against the pressure washer as the only issue, every other test it did amazing.

Christmas is early. Girlfriend sent me this pic will open when I get in this evening. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, they're all junk - am I supposed to be happy about spending $50-$85-LARGE and having nothing but problems?? I guess you didn't grow up in the same era I did, back when cars were actually built to LAST ... and cost 1/3rd what they do now.

Thanks for all the ideas guys! I ended up using this from Amazon Nilight 2PCS 60 Inch 180 LEDs Bed Strip Kit with Waterproof on/Off Switch Blade Fuse 2-Way Splitter Extension Cable for Cargo, Pickup Truck, SUV, RV, Boat ,2 Years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KXR799K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_dlC_xYS1FbPKWGHQ4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Here a is it at night Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol No rust to a tech is being able to hit the 13 mm exhaust clamp nut and having it back off no issues whatsoever [emoji23]

Went to a body shop a couple weeks ago to see if they would paint my chrome bumpers. They would not for obvious reasons. Started doing a ton of research and ignored all of the advice on not painting them... Obviously. Finished the rear bumper today. Think it came out pretty clean. There are a couple imperfections in the clear coat, but if it bugs me enough I’ll polish them out. Hopefully my 4 hours of sanding hold up [emoji23][emoji1317] Not bad for 70ish bucks per bumper.

Ran across this gem a little bit ago Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Here is my 2017 midnight edition ltz 6.2l.

Walking up to the cashier at the liquor store in a cowboy hat and bandanna saying. "Show me da money"!

Thanks!.. I dont know why but it only lets me upload one photo at a time, 4MB max lol

So I have been meaning to throw some pic up of the progress on the 2019 Trail Boss build. So here ya go! -ReadyLift Plus 2.0" SST Lift - Adds another 2" on-top of the Stock Trail Boss lift from the factory -Road Armor Spartan Series Front Bumper W/Procomp 20" Double Row light bar and 6 3x3 Cube's (4 Flood 2 Spot) -Decked Bed Drawer System -Victory 4x4 18" Full Bed Rack -Nexen M/T 35" Tires -SmittyBuilt Roof Top Tent -GOING DOWN RABBIT HOLES FOR A ROOF RACK THOUGH UGH -Iceco portable fridge/freezer setup in the back seat

Mc New - It’s the front emblem modified. what details would you like to know? early morning shot below

Somewhat new to the forum and excited about my new 2020 AT4 Duramax. So far loving the new truck. This is my first GM product after owning Toyotas my entire life. Couldn't be happier and hoping its as dependable as a Toyota. Mods - 285/75/17 Nitto Trail Grapplers 17x9 Icon Rebels w/ 0 offset Removed Rear 2" block to level truck Next Mods - Gloss Black Paint - Grill - Emblems - Fog Surrounds Powder Coat TailPipes Gloss Black

What two hoses for a crew cab?