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finally got the high country back. Smoked klearz with a 3" switchback and 20x10 Cheyennes

Are those oem or aftermarket headlights? The hot spot and poor light output could be due to your projectors and maybe the bulbs are not seated correctly or possibly at a slight angel. Try to adjust the bulbs a little bit to see if that helps. What silveradosid posted is your best bet.

Bad battery cables and or bad battery cable fuse block. #18-NA-161: Steering Jerks Or Kicks Back / Reduced Power Steering Assist / Engine Stall / No Start / Service Stabilitrak / IPC / Radio / HVAC Goes Blank Various DTCs - (Jun 23, 2021) Involved Region or Country North America, Europe, Russia, Middle East, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Paraguay, Peru, Japan, South Korea, China and Thailand. Condition Important: For 2014 Vehicles please check VIN status per Safety recall 17276. Execute denoted action if VIN status is “open”. Important: For 2015 Vehicles please check VIN status per Safety recall 18289. Execute denoted action if VIN status is “open”. Note: If there are steering related complaints related to this bulletin, please review bulletin 17-NA-345, PIT5457 and 20–NA-113. Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions: Reduced or loss of power steering assist (only LD models equipped with electric power steering) Steering wheel jerks or kicks back when turning Service Stabilitrak message with warning chime Engine stall IPC going blank or inoperative Radio/ICS going blank HVAC going blank Hood ajar message and/or dome lamps flash when shifting into reverse Alarm sounds when locking doors or door locks cycling Wipers continue to run for a short time after turning off and then stop/park in the incorrect location Important: Record history and current codes from all modules before clearing to aid in diagnostics. Some technicians may find one or more of the following DTC’s set: B1325, B124B, B124C, B127B, B127E, C0544, C0710, C0800, P0513, U0020, U0073, U0077, U0078, U0100, U0101, U0102, U0121, U0126, U0131, U0140, U0155, U0164, U0415, U0422, U0428, U0452, U1509, U150F and/or U15E1 Note: The following causes listed below, may cause the battery to discharge. Cause 1 This condition may be caused by battery cables with high resistance and/or loose connections at the: Positive or negative battery cables Battery fuse block Cause 2 This condition may be caused by a poor BCM ground at G218. Cause 3 This condition may be caused by a shorted B+ Battery cable (3) at the Starter Solenoid caused by: A loose starter shield contacting the starter battery cable terminal ring. A starter cable ring terminal that has been mis-installed and/or rotated when installed on the starter solenoid. Cause 4 This condition may be caused by a discharged or faulty battery. Correction 1 Note: If no loss of power component or interface is detected, consider changing out both the negative cable and BDU cable and torque appropriately Important: The following steps must be completed in order. Grasping or attempting to rotate cables could affect readings and should be done after performing the voltage drop measurement. Note: When checking voltage drop, the voltage drop should be performed with the fuel system disabled (or hold the accelerator WOT) and while cranking the engine. MIN/MAX on the Digital Multi Meter (DMM) should NOT be used. The voltage drop should be monitored at a STEADY crank. Inspect for any high resistance and/or loose connections at both the battery fuse block and the positive or negative battery cables. Perform a loaded voltage drop test on the short positive battery cable (1). Refer to “Measuring Voltage Drop” in SI. If the voltage drop is above 100 mV, replace the affected cable(s). For positive cable parts information, refer to the Parts Information section. Perform a loaded voltage drop test on the negative battery cable (2). Refer to “Measuring Voltage Drop” in SI. If the voltage drop is above 200 mV, replace the affected cable. For negative cable parts information, refer to the Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC). It is imperative that both the positive and negative battery top posts protrude above the battery cable clamps 1-2 mm (0.040 - 0.080 in) to be properly installed, as shown (3). Check both the positive and negative battery cable clamp nuts and make sure they are properly tightened to 7 Nm (62 lb in). After the positive and negative battery cables are fully installed and tightened to 7 Nm (62 lb in), grasp each battery cable near the battery post and make sure they are secure and that they do not spin on the post. If they spin, replace the battery cable. For positive cable parts information, refer to the Parts Information section. For negative cable parts information, refer to the Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC). Inspect the battery fuse block cable connections for being lose by grasping each cable near the eyelet and verify they do not rotate on their respective stud. Verify each nut is torqued properly to 15 Nm (11 ft lb). Inspect the negative battery cable where it connects to the engine block and make sure it is not lose by grasping the cable near the eyelet and verify it does not rotate. Verify the cable nut is torqued properly to 45 Nm (33 ft lb). Correction 2 Note: If no loss of power component or interface is detected, consider changing out both the negative cable and BDU cable and torque appropriately Inspect G218 (applies LD Trucks and SUVs built prior to June 2015): Check for the nut being loose or cross threaded (1), repair and tighten as necessary. Check for the front of dash insulator mat (2) being trapped between the ground eyelet and the body/stud as shown. If the dash insulator mat is trapped, cut the mat away from the ground stud so it will no longer interfere. Reinstall the ground eyelet, the nut, and retighten. Correction 3 Inspect the starter solenoid B+ battery cable for possible contact at the starter heat shield (1) or a loose shield resting on terminal. If the battery cable is shorting out on the starter heat shield, replace the B+ battery cable and starter heat shield. After installing the new starter heat shield and B+ battery cable, ensure there is adequate clearance and each fastener is torqued properly so it will no longer short out. Correction 4 Perform the "Battery Inspection/Test" procedure in SI, using the GR8, and replace the battery if it fails the test. Technicians must attach the GR8 test print out with a Battery Replace decision, that includes the Warranty Code, to the repair order.

Great. Mine's a Feb 2021 build. Guess I'm in the window. I'm gonna drive it like I stole it to see if I have a problem.

The most recent failure run is a production issue, bad batch if you will. Many have been happening with less than 8,000mi on the odometer. The 4.3, 5.3 and 6.2 all use the same part # lifter, both AFM and DFM style engines. Most of these lifter failures that have happened since AFM's inception were higher mileage failures, say 50,000+up.

lol?? I asked for source for your bogus claim the melling said it is an oiling related issue and that was your response. Pipeline was my only thought on why you wouldn't shut your truck off. Hell when I was framing and landscaping I just left all the windows down. I've worked the outside jobs and used the work trucks but we normally brought our own generator to power everything and no trucks were left on. Not all jobs require that though so I understand that My main point from what I said is that given the same oil change intervals between the two different sets of lifters the AFM ones are the only ones to fail. This is why I think that the answer from Melling is a cop out.

So since I went with the S-type it's only the muffler that's different. I think the 6.2 come with the resonator, not the 5.3. If you look at the instructions for the Touring / s Type, they are all the same. Only difference is the muffler section.

Wheels will fit. But you will want at least 2" level to fit the tires. I have 275/70/18's on my truck with 2.5 level in front

Get your blow dryer out and some dental floss and remove the badge now, before you take it in.

I know this from my own experience. I have done more frequent oil changes than most. Never had a motor failure or lifter failure. I had to replace leaking valve cover gaskets on my 1993 5.7L at 115 K. The valve train and head valleys were clean. Just the normal metal discoloration. This is the sludge collection area. I agree with Melling that oil quality and oil change frequency could affect the lifters. Common sense to me. The motors of today are more complicated, more parts than days of old. In my experience motor failures were top end failures more than bottom end failures. The top requires good oil flow to lube the valve train. Also helps with cooling IMO. The bottom of a motor is bathed in oil. I have replaced more valves, lifters and heads than bottom bearings. Doing more frequent maintenance than any manufacturers maintenance schedule suggests has served me well.

No reason at all. But if you can get the extra X31 back, that is if they can take it off without damaging it.

It's telling that they mention nothing about beating the **** of the vehicle and causing excessive wear.

The truck has been in the shop 4 times for the exact same issue. A trans sensor keeps going bad? I know i'm not getting charged for it when I go, so they are just replacing the same part. Personally I think it is a short going to one of the sensors, but they just tell me they replaced it. Next time it has to go in I'll have them look at other things. but just to add, hell yea I want a newer truck LOL. I just don't like the unreliability of this one. I have the option of waiting which is why I was asking about the 2022's. This truck has been paid off for a long time. My wife and I only do one car payment at a time, so I was hoping to get one soonish, since she will need another one in a couple of years

the reason I’m doing it is I’m replacing the compressor, the expansion valve, and I need to pull the condenser to replace the desiccant. My guess is the dealer would charge me around 4 hours labour, at $100 Canadian an hour. I can easily do it all myself, as I installed the new condenser last year. Installing the compressor looks fairly easy after looking at how to do it. I purchased a GM genuine compressor, so I’d assume it would have the correct oil. I’ll tell the dealer tech I installed the GM compressor and they should know what’s in it, or they can check. A system evac and recharge is $125 Canadian at the dealer.

Yes I only run 93

Sounds like the current truck is paid off. Also sounds like it's not used as a commuter vehicle or to keep a business running. Presumably that means miles per year are on the low side, and it's possible to leave in in the shop for a few days for any repairs that are needed. If repairs are say $1000 and you avoid says $1000/month in payments -- and drive it one more month. then it's a wash. (Or $1000 in repair, $500 in monthly payments and drive it 2 more months -- or any other similar combo) I guess I don't understand the using the repair as an excuse to jump into another cycle of payments. I like running newer stuff as much as anybody, but when I look back over 40 years of vehicle purchases (mostly new ones) the ones that give the best memories turn out to be the ones driven for a bunch of years after they were fully paid for. Of course if you just want a new one, and it fits your finances, go for it.

And you believe the repair will cost more than a new truck and somehow will be less reliable? If you've been stranded 4 times and know what the issue it and are not fixing it....................????????????????????? C'mon now.....you just want to tell us you ARE buying a new truck

2021 Sierra Denali 6.2L and it idles so smooth you can't tell its running. 10,000 trouble free miles since 12/07/20.... I been adding a bottle of this every tank full for the better of the 10,000 miles. My nephew took one of mine and added to his wife's Cadillac SRX (75,000 miles) and it starting running smoother overnight to the point he bought a couple cases and adds it to every tank in the SRX and his Ecoboost Edge.

No reason, more of a hassle than it would be worth for sure.

Go trade in your AT4. Plenty of Tundra owners would love to have it. I personally will take the fuel mileage and torque with an intermittent no start event over one all day.

I had a chance to do some trail breaking on some snow covered forest service roads last winter and the tires did pretty good. Not dedicated snow tire good but still not bad. I did not get a chance to drive on any icy roads as it was late in the winter here in Montana. I do like the tires. If they have a reasonable lifespan I'll probably replace with the same.

I have not seen or heard anything that is related to high idle hours. The lifter failures happen when those lifters do as they are designed to do with the AFM/DFM system. I'd challenge your bet that dealerships cut corners with not changing oil filters and running the cheapest oil on the market. I have never been too or worked at a place that didn't change the filters, that stuff just doesn't happen and would NEVER fly if some big wigs found that out. Also a GM dealership can not just pick any oil they want to run. All the oil they buy must meet the specs that the manufacture has set. Mistakes happen with vehicles. You just got shitty service with that service advisor and dealer which is unfortunate. I may be lucky but if I bought a new GM truck I have 6 different GM dealership within 20 miles of my home, so I'd many places to go if someone gave me a hard time.

Nah you can let them have it. Unless you have some other reason to use them go ahead and ask for them back but I can't imagine you will

Looks damn good man. Tastefully done

Idle a couple of hours a day?!?! There is no correlation between these things though. The lifters are just crappy

Decided to make a change and took off the chrome bug deflector. It really changes the look and I really like it. Just worried about chips so I ordered the form fitting bug deflector from AVS that tapes to the front face of the hood. Before I put it on I am going to get it painted red to match the truck. Before: After:

There is no cap that I've ever heard of that mates to factory connectors. All the caps I've owned have had to be wired in. There should have been an aftermarket harness that those connectors would plug in to that gets wired into the truck. Maybe call the manufacturer of the cap and see if you can purchase it? The purpose of those connectors are so when/if you ever wish to take cap off, it can just be disconnected and then reconnected when you put cap back on.

I buy a new pickup every sixty-five years, so I'm good until 2085 with my 2020...

GM didn’t do enough to the power train department for me. Needed more power. The current interior is durable, easy to clean, easy to operate, and I am fine with the 8 inch screen. Don’t get me wrong. The new interior is extremely nice, just not enough for me to upgrade. I have my truck set up the way I want it. The only way I trade is if they offer a supercharger or more power in 2023. Otherwise I love my truck. Plus, it has a 6ft 6 bed and those are hard to find.

I saw over the weekend it was truck month for GM. Judging from the lots around me. You have to bring your own.

Whatever is out every 5 years is whatever i drive for the following 5

16 lb ft. Per GM, the condenser will have to come out.

The service manual directs you to disconnect the negative battery cable before servicing the brake pads. If you don't, by the time you turn the truck on, you'll get two codes: a brake control module code saying it lost hydraulic pressure, and another code telling the ECM to turn on the check engine light. You can clear these codes and restart the truck and it should be fine. The manual states that the brake system on the truck goes through automated self-tests and compressing the calipers with the battery connected messes with the computer. Has nothing the do with brand of brake pads or anything at all, just disconnect the battery for the brake job. At the end of the brake job, you can reconnect the battery terminal and pump the brake pedal before turning the ignition on. Then there's no lights.

My GMC Sierra paint is called QuickSilver. I believe it’s the same colour. Wheels are Satin Black Fuel Contras 20” 0 offset. 1.5” Motofab level.

You do not gain any payload capacity by adding new tires. I've never even heard that one before. The tires that come from the factory have more than enough capacity to handle GAWR, GVWR and GCWR. You also do not gain any payload capacity by adding extra leaf springs or air bags or anything else. You are only beefing up one component of many. If someone needs more capacity, then they need a heavier duty truck.

Unless you get in to an accident, especially a severe one then yes, you will be cited and sued... Tyler

And I'm sure you have thought of it, since you are actually asking the right questions and want to do the right thing - but the important thing is to STAY BELOW the maximums (TW, GVCR, payloads, etc) for LEGAL reasons. Yes, our trucks can (and many do) physically tow more than the printed numbers on our doorjambs, but should you get in an accident (your fault or not), and you were found to be over the specified limits for your truck, an attorney will sue you for everything you have! I always get the Max Tow pkg to give me more safety (and legal) margin, use a good WD hitch and weigh the setup. Most of us who tow often would be better off with a 2500, but we don't want to daily-drive one of them...so a little more homework on weights has to be done to keep everyone safe. Based on the weights, I'd vote for the GD trailer as well, considering we all load MORE than we think we will! Happy trailering!

So, my alpine unit doesn't use the factory usb ports, and I am not happy with the half amp output they have. So I've upgraded the ports to 2 2.4amp ports and a quickcharge 3.0 port. Now I can charge from these usb ports like they were actually meant to be used. They are not functional as data ports. Only charge ports. Also I know, its really dusty.

Yesterday I purchased an illuminated bowtie, but it didn’t have the harness with it. Working on that issue now. Rotated my tires finally and gave it a quick rinse, because I know it’s supposed to rain for the next 3 days here.