Is Your Gmt-900 Truck Or Suv Using Oil

HateCarpetGuy · December 24, 2013

HCGuy, did you also get the "AFM shield" installed in the oil pan, or just replace the valve cover with the one with the "AFM baffle" in it?

I have not done anything in the oil pan, just the valve cover upgrade.

gjg55 · December 25, 2013

Update - 2011 Silverado using oil. OK - I had the 6.2 motor replaced with new "crate engine" (fully covered by warranty), and now have over 1000 miles on it. My original motor would have used about a quart of oil so far, and this one is reading same as when put in service (full.) I expected some use due to break-in, but have not noticed any. Things are looking good so far, I hope this engine remains "tight".

Going through the oil consumption checks was a pain, but in the end Chevy/GM did the right thing. Wish the best of luck to you all.

Cowpie · January 11, 2014

Well, I wasn't taking any chances with my 2013 5.3L. I broke it in like I normally drive it, I deleted the AFM function the day after I brought it home new from the dealer, and I put a oil separator catch can on the PCV line in the first 1000 miles. Hoping to greatly reduce any risk of GM design flaws catching up to me. On last oil change, had 6150 miles on the oil (changed out the factory fill at around 1190 miles). Oil level was down to just below the first dent on the stick below full.

Edited January 11, 2014 by Cowpie

studly · January 12, 2014

I'd like to see how well the "fixes" for this oil consumption problem work. Can we set up a poll?

Something like this:

If you had an oil consumption problem with your GM 5.3L V8 *and* had one of the following fixes performed, was the oil consumption problem fixed? (our definition of "oil consumption problem" = more than 1 quart every 2000 miles)

Possible fixes:

1) Valve cover replacement

2) AFM shield in oil pan

3) Range AFM disable device

Possible answers:

a) Did (1) and it worked.

b) Did (1) and it didn't work.

c) Did (1) and (2) and it worked.

d) Did (1) and (2) and it didn't work.

e) Did (3) and it worked.

f) Did (3) and it didn't work.

g) Did (1) and (2) and (3) and it worked.

h) Did (1) and (2) and (3) and it didn't work.

i) Did more extensive work (e.g. rings and/or pistons).

Stex · January 19, 2014

My 09 looks like it will not meet GMs requirements for the oil burn fix. Running at about 1 1/2 to 2 qts low on 5,000 mile oil change test. So would replacing the valve covers help and what would be a cost estimate? AFM is off,

dsmmace · January 19, 2014

Go to a different dealer. I didn't have to do a consumption test, they took my word and did the valve cover, 8 lifters and the oil pan reflector fix as well. I now consume less than a liter per 6000 kms and has cut my oil consumption by over 50%.

Shed376 · January 20, 2014

2012 5.3L, I do not know block type. Use Amsoil 0-W30 with amsoil filter, changed at 10k religiously. Truck currently in shop with #1 piston down.

Pissed off that I'm die hard Chevy and paid for $40K for a truck with problems. Thanks for supporting us, now bend over!

MarkYoungSDMF · January 20, 2014

07 5.3,block type unknown. It is using one quart every 1,000_1,500.This is the same thing as my 06 Impala SS did with the 5.3.Was told it had to do with the displacement on demand........

dataspng · January 23, 2014

Well according to the Dealer and GM.. its not using enough oil for the TSB / Fixes. I explained that it went from 0 oil consumption for the last 70,000 miles to starting to use oil and now at 90,000 miles its using over 2 quarts per oil change (at 30 to 20% life left on the DIC). According to GM it needs to use 1 quart per 2000 miles before they even start work. Close but no cigar.....

Time to ask other dealers (60 miles in each direction) and hope they respond better than the local one. At this rate I figure it will use enough oil for GM to do something after 100K miles... which of course I will be out of warranty.

Maybe that tray behind front grill is not for a dual battery but for the customer to bungie strap a gallon jug of OIL on for between oil changes top offs.

2011 Silverado 1500 - 93K on the clock

j-ten-ner · January 23, 2014

Well according to the Dealer and GM.. its not using enough oil for the TSB / Fixes....

so long

j-ten-ner

hillbilly4u · January 23, 2014

2012 5.3L, I do not know block type. Use Amsoil 0-W30 with amsoil filter, changed at 10k religiously. Truck currently in shop with #1 piston down.

Pissed off that I'm die hard Chevy and paid for $40K for a truck with problems. Thanks for supporting us, now bend over!

Sad

music · January 24, 2014

What are the details on the valve cover change? That's a new one to me. Part number(s)?

studly · January 24, 2014

What are the details on the valve cover change? That's a new one to me. Part number(s)?

I have a 2008 4WD Suburban with 5.3L.

Here is what they used for my vehicle:

12639759 Deflector

12612350 Gasket

12570427 Cover

Folically Challengjed · January 24, 2014

Anybody check plugs to see if a certain cylinder had more ash deposits on it than the rest?

I pulled these at 102K miles:

and here's a closeup of some of the nastier ones:

When they replaced the pistons + rings at 75,530, they replaced 2 plugs that had, "broken off" during the process. They didn't say which ones, but I'd bet the rear driver's-side (at top left in the picture) was one of them.

FC

Edited January 24, 2014 by Folically Challengjed

MaverickZ71 · January 24, 2014

I was contemplating doing the valve cover upgrade and oil pan shield myself until I read my Chilton's guide on removing the oil pan. It says you have to remove the skid plate, move the steering rack and front 4WD differential out of the way, loosen the bottom tranny bolts, and remove the crossmember just to be able to get to the oil pan. Sheesh! Is that right? [Has anybody done that?] I remember my old 350's where you just removed the oil pan bolts and let'er drop!! (The good old days?!)