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What's With The Tiny Oil Filter?


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Posted
BTW.......... don't feel bad about the filter size. I changed the oil in my wife's '07 Saturn this weekend. The oil filter looks like the old style paper filter that used to go into quadrajet carburetors....... HMMMMMM!!! that probably doesn't relate to 90% of you... :drool: ......It's just a paper filter (without the can) about 2.5" in diameter and ~3" long...... :thumbs:

 

Yeah, better know as a complete mess after changing....... Seems that after all the years of us having screw on filters. And enjoying oil free hands after changing oil. Now they want to swap back to a canister filter.... I was surprised when we got the GMT900 platform it didn't have one (as they are quite cheaper).

 

Jbo

 

The one in our Saturn is really neat to change. The filter is recessed into the engine casting that has a screw on lid on top. Just unscrew the lid and the filter comes out with the lid. Didn't get a drop of oil on me. The entire oil change took less than 15 minutes.

 

 

 

I really like that design and wish they would incorporate it into all the engines. Less waste and mess, plus you can examine the filter.

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Posted
what is the issue with fram? John Force approves of Fram lol

if i was getting paid what John Force was getting paid by Fram, i would use them too.. :cheers:

AC Delco or WIX

Posted

John Force also has his engine rebuilt every half mile or so... Just sayin. :cheers:

Posted
The one in our Saturn is really neat to change. The filter is recessed into the engine casting that has a screw on lid on top. Just unscrew the lid and the filter comes out with the lid. Didn't get a drop of oil on me. The entire oil change took less than 15 minutes.

 

hmmmmm, not the dreaded remove lower bolt cast iron piece falls and drops oil every where? I'd I like my screw on filters. I bet the piece you unscrew is plastic.... Strips easily and is quite stupidly expensive and probably produced for a few cents each.

 

I really like that design and wish they would incorporate it into all the engines. Less waste and mess, plus you can examine the filter.

 

Just get a filter cutter or a large pipe cutter.....

 

Jbo

Posted
I bet the piece you unscrew is plastic.... Strips easily and is quite stupidly expensive and probably produced for a few cents each.

 

Jbo

 

Actually, it is plastic. The threads are quite course so stripping would be pretty hard, unless the person screwing it in were pretty dumb. The lid has a replaceable o'ring that comes with each new filter.

 

I screwed the lid in by hand then gave it a little torque with a crescent wrench. Now that you mention it, I may put a little Vasoline on the treads next time.

 

The only issue that I have on this particular car is that the A/C lines run right over the top of the lid. That makes it hard to get a wrench in there without pulling the A/C hoses out of the way. I don't like pulling on A/C or any other pressurized hoses because you may end up with a leak.

Posted

Hyundai switched to the canister style while I was in the shop. Bet I changed hundreds of them and never, ever saw one get damaged even after being dropped.

Posted

My brother was attempting to do his own oil change on his 08 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4l and couldn't get his oil drain plug out (he went to speedee on his last oil change and they lost the gasket on the plug so they tightened the crap out of it so it wouldnn't leak and he couldn't get it off), so here I am on my lunch brake yesterday underneath his car and I see the Mobil1 m1-113 oil filter, and I think to myself "no way that this is the same oil filter that my Silverado takes", but it is...needless to say I plan on buying a couple AC Delco filters and giving him my Mobil1's.

Posted
I bet the piece you unscrew is plastic.... Strips easily and is quite stupidly expensive and probably produced for a few cents each.

 

Jbo

 

Actually, it is plastic. The threads are quite course so stripping would be pretty hard, unless the person screwing it in were pretty dumb. The lid has a replaceable o'ring that comes with each new filter.

 

I screwed the lid in by hand then gave it a little torque with a crescent wrench. Now that you mention it, I may put a little Vasoline on the treads next time.

 

The only issue that I have on this particular car is that the A/C lines run right over the top of the lid. That makes it hard to get a wrench in there without pulling the A/C hoses out of the way. I don't like pulling on A/C or any other pressurized hoses because you may end up with a leak.

 

 

hmm, if its o-ring seal you should be using something on the o-ring every time to prevent a cut or tear in the o-ring seal. ie oil, vasoline, trannie goo.....

 

I agree the least amount of movement on the A/C lines the better. Its quite surprising how brittle they can become, especially at the crimped shells. I have had to fix way to many A/C lines after shops put engines in cars because laying it all over to the side sometimes leads to a leak........

 

I just remember how bad a bath you had to take when you removed them off old engines.... And how much hydraulic fluid comes crashing down on a couple of my tractors when I take them off. But if its on the top where it opens and doesn't gush like a fire truck hose, I might not mind it being a canister filter (at least I could retire the filter cutter somewhat).

 

As far as the stripping, 7.3l diesels (fuel filters)...... Ford before they made the move to the one piece where the lid was made on it. Wix had a 3518 filter that was the same as the OE, just the filter. I can not count the number of lids we sold, due to striping them. They were WAY coarse, probably some acme thread. And If they weren't striped they would have the top broke off where they over tightened them. I was glad to see Ford make the change and WIX follow by updating the filters to include the tops (3818 is the new number). I remember the lids at jobber cost were like $38ish... We were mandated to sell them at cost by WIX.

 

Jbo

Posted

Before long, if the greenies get there way, all oil filters will be back to a cartrige style filter like the GM Ecotec 4cyl engines that you are all talking about, just to cut down on landfill waste.

Posted
I just remember how bad a bath you had to take when you removed them off old engines.... And how much hydraulic fluid comes crashing down on a couple of my tractors when I take them off. But if its on the top where it opens and doesn't gush like a fire truck hose, I might not mind it being a canister filter (at least I could retire the filter cutter somewhat).

 

Jbo

I had those canister filters (2) on the Ford Lehman Diesel engine in my sailboat. I drilled a hole in the bottom of each canister then drilled & tapped the hole for a 1/4-28 bolt (and nylon washer). It worked really well for draining the canister prior to removing it. The steel on my canister was really thick. That was 25 years ago and the current owner still has them in there without issue. Sure saves a mess.

Posted
Before long, if the greenies get there way, all oil filters will be back to a cartrige style filter like the GM Ecotec 4cyl engines that you are all talking about, just to cut down on landfill waste.

 

That's a good idea IMO....... as long as they take some care in designing them and where they put them.

 

I left the filter laying in my empty drain pan for a day and (almost) all the oil ran out and I was able to properly dispose of the oil and filter separately. That's a big plus in my mind..... I mean, multiply the millions of filters by the amount of residual oil that is left in them and you end up with a lot of contaminated oil in the ground.

 

Another plus is that you actually get to see what the filter looks like when you take it out. You can see if it's falling apart (as some filters have been reported to do). It is not hidden in a can where you can't see what is actually going on with the filter.

 

You can also examine it for obvious metal particles and better tell the condition of the oil. I was impressed to say the least (just not too impressed with the size :cheers: ).

Posted
That's a good idea IMO....... as long as they take some care in designing them and where they put them.

 

I left the filter laying in my empty drain pan for a day and (almost) all the oil ran out and I was able to properly dispose of the oil and filter separately. That's a big plus in my mind..... I mean, multiply the millions of filters by the amount of residual oil that is left in them and you end up with a lot of contaminated oil in the ground.

 

Another plus is that you actually get to see what the filter looks like when you take it out. You can see if it's falling apart (as some filters have been reported to do). It is not hidden in a can where you can't see what is actually going on with the filter.

 

You can also examine it for obvious metal particles and better tell the condition of the oil. I was impressed to say the least (just not too impressed with the size :cheers: ).

The reason why GM hasn't went to all cartrige filters yet? Too many issues with cheap aftermarket filters being used and crumbling into chucks to fill up oil passages and oil pumps causing severe engine damage.

Posted
The reason why GM hasn't went to all cartrige filters yet? Too many issues with cheap aftermarket filters being used and crumbling into chucks to fill up oil passages and oil pumps causing severe engine damage.

 

It's my understanding that some of the "Popular" brand canister filters have that issue now. A person just can't see it unless he cuts open the canister. I would think that actually being able to see every filter element as it is replaced may go a long way toward eliminating that problem.

 

Once I see a particular brand filter come out in pieces or having pieces missing, I would never buy that brand filter again. You don't have that privilege in a can filter. :cheers:

Posted

So I see on the wix brand equivalent for PF48, the by pass valve setting is 8. For wix equivalent to PF63, the by pass valve setting is 12-15. Is this a potential issue or hazard? The threads are the same but the gasket diameters for the PF63 are bigger as well. Thanks ahead of time :cheers:

Posted
So I see on the wix brand equivalent for PF48, the by pass valve setting is 8. For wix equivalent to PF63, the by pass valve setting is 12-15. Is this a potential issue or hazard? The threads are the same but the gasket diameters for the PF63 are bigger as well. Thanks ahead of time :cheers:

 

If I had my handy dandy filter book, popular filters in their different sizes options. 1042 - 1522..... Same less the height. 1056 - 1348 - one more but I forget the number... Fits small engines. The long one is the length of the 1522..

 

It list them according to specs the same less the height. So they are grouped nicely. However the book is a 2003 model. The newer ones omit this section.

 

Jbo

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