Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Started buying Denali parts again. Got the lower grille in. Still need to mess with the frame and I'm going to replace the core support. Still trying to find the best price on the core support and other pieces. I got the lower grill on amazon. Got the last one and it was discounted from $115 down to $27. It is the actual GM part as well

Posted

I know they used somewhat of a different engine on the 14's and up,
I've had this truck almost a month now, its due for an oil change.
I got 3 free oil changes they use at the dealer, I think they said AC-Delco semi blend?
The owner before said, he put Castrol Synthetic in it, but I'm thinking I'm just gonna use Amsoil SS in it with their filter and change every 8-10k.

Since it had 40k miles. Ran Royal Purple before that since it had 2,291 on the clock. Always changed that at 5k miles or sooner. Alot sooner than it needed to be, that's for sure.

 

 

Couldn't do any better maintenance. Treated this one the same, if not better, than my old school 350s I've owned in the past, and this modern junk hasn't even come close to the miles (or the severe beatings) those engines had on them. I was in my teens and twenties in those days - the pedal spent most of it's time planted in the carpet! This truck was babied by comparison. It's a friggin disgrace! :mad:

 

GM has forgotten how to build an engine in order to save themselves some money. Maybe if they built the shit right the first go-around, there wouldn't be any money problems? HMMM! What a concept!! :eek:

 

 

 

 

Posted

I know they used somewhat of a different engine on the 14's and up,

I've had this truck almost a month now, its due for an oil change.

I got 3 free oil changes they use at the dealer, I think they said AC-Delco semi blend?

The owner before said, he put Castrol Synthetic in it, but I'm thinking I'm just gonna use Amsoil SS in it with their filter and change every 8-10k.

 

 

 

Amsoil SS is the best oil you can buy, hands down. IMO, semi-synthetic is a useless marketing gimmick. Has few of the benefits of full synthetic. It's basically a SLIGHTLY better dino oil.

 

Maybe you can get them to exchange the oil changes for 3 free car washes or something. :)

Posted

 

Amsoil SS is the best oil you can buy, hands down. IMO, semi-synthetic is a useless marketing gimmick. Has few of the benefits of full synthetic. It's basically a SLIGHTLY better dino oil.

 

Maybe you can get them to exchange the oil changes for 3 free car washes or something. :)

Well, they said I could buy my own oil and stuff. They'd change it for free. How often do you change your oil while running Amsoil SS?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

 

Amsoil SS is the best oil you can buy, hands down. IMO, semi-synthetic is a useless marketing gimmick. Has few of the benefits of full synthetic. It's basically a SLIGHTLY better dino oil.

 

Maybe you can get them to exchange the oil changes for 3 free car washes or something. :)

 

While I agree Amsoil is great oil, I don't know if I would say best oil hands down. The Schaeffer 9000 I run in my engine is some pretty damn good oil as well. Don't get me wrong, I run Amsoil products in my diffs and t-case.

Posted (edited)

I've seen the tests, and other's (along with my own) TBN in oil analysis'. I have yet to see anything better in that regard, but that's just one aspect - it accells across the board.

 

 

Well, they said I could buy my own oil and stuff. They'd change it for free. How often do you change your oil while running Amsoil SS?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Longest I've gone so far is 9,985 - and that is hard towing, and up here in the Northeast pretty much every drive is considered "city". The oil was ready to go many more miles, but my engine is shedding metals like crazy. That's not the fault of the oil - that's GM's fault for cutting corners on this engine. Never in my life have I seen an engine from ANY era start wearing out this soon. 90k miles. My first analysis was at 77k!!

 

GM should just consult with other companies on how to cut corners to save a buck. Might as well stick with what you're good at, and leave the rest to the experts ... but I digress ...

 

If you don't tow, or are light footed when driving, you can easily go 10k, then send in an analysis to see how everything looks. If it's good, you can go up to 15k. The oil is good to 25k, but that's in cars, IMO. Any truck that's used as a truck is going to be hard on the oil, no matter how good it is.

Edited by Jsdirt
  • Like 1
Posted

Well, they said I could buy my own oil and stuff. They'd change it for free. How often do you change your oil while running Amsoil SS?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's rated for 25k

883e6350508550ded4ffddc4f772b109.jpg

Posted (edited)

I run an amsoil bypass filter...it more than doubles my cost of an oil change.

 

The filter does come out quite a bit heavier than when first installed.

 

But IMO if I wanted to throw money away I would buy amsoil oil and full flow filter.

 

 

Huge savings buying Mobil oil and filters on sale.

Edited by Chevor
Posted

Just remember that these oils are being tested in labs under ideal conditions, not out on the road doing the kind of driving that YOU do.

Posted

Just remember that these oils are being tested in labs under ideal conditions, not out on the road doing the kind of driving that YOU do.

I abuse the loud pedal. In fact it allows me to have dual mode exhaust a lot cheaper than the GM performance cars

Posted

Ordered a new radiator bracket that is welded to the frame. Going to go junkyard hunting tomorrow to see if I can get the entire core support on the cheap. Lights on the left don't exactly line up. There is a gap by the grille and they look pushed in. Since the lights mount to that, I'm going to replace it.

Posted

Saw this at the grocery store

5b7667dc212e6e85a96a64a6c2b24d9b.jpg

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,911
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    jaszr2
    Newest Member
    jaszr2
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 550 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...