Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

White1500...that does sound like love. Thats a long list of repairs.

Tell me about it. :crazy: But I'm looking forward to the challenge little by little.

 

Although if she had been taken care of better up until now that list wouldn't be as long.

 

Nothing serious, but she was rotated and balanced on Sunday and the vibration's almost went away completely.. until yesterday when I drove over some gravely rock and turned a little too fast. And guess what? The vibrations are back, did I lose a wheel wheight? -___-

Edited by white1500
Posted

Holy fvck I love my truck!

 

I took her out for a drive tonight and it was one of those moments where everything just comes together.

 

I was getting on the on ramp for the freeway and before the lane merged into one i decided to go around a car that was going a little slow, but when I changed lanes he decided to speed up so. Long story short I slam the throttle and go around him like a rocket!

 

The engine and gears are just perfect in those situations and I wouldn't trade them for any other combo on this truck.

 

And to be honest, it kind of happened again a few seconds later because a tacoma decided to do the same as I was attempting to get to the other side so I can merge onto another freeway. The guy knew there were a ton of cars behind him and I was signaling to change lanes, and of course there was no way I was gonna overshoot the exit because of his lame excuse for a truck. 4k rpm right after another was magical! haha


It's a rare occurrence now because I mainly use her to commute to work and and try to be as efficient as possible. :(

Posted

Drop a 6.0 in and you will see perfect... my truck is efficient on the hwy if I keep it under 80

 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk 4

 

 

Posted

2006 Z71 crew cab with the 5.3L auto. Typical repairs. The intermediate steering shaft was replaced with the sealed unit at 35k miles, no issues since. I replaced the front hub assemblies before they needed it, replaced the fuel pump before it went out, I did have to replace the passenger side front axle seal, had the transfer case actuator motor replaced, plugs, wires, rotors, pads, drums, shoes, batteries, fluids, belts, hoses, shocks, etc. The truck has 126k miles and the only problem I have now are a couple of bulbs need replacing in the electronic AC module. I replace things before they become an issue based on what others have said they experience. I plan on keeping the truck because the repairs are less costly than a new payment!!

Posted

Scott, you have a lot of cosmetic mods! What gears and engine are you running?

 

And Chawkins, for the price of admission for a sixpointoh I could do miracles to the suspension and interior. Power is great but not if I can't control it.

Posted
Scott, you have a lot of cosmetic mods! What gears and engine are you running?

 

And Chawkins, for the price of admission for a sixpointoh I could do miracles to the suspension and interior. Power is great but not if I can't control it.

 

Price of admission for the high output 6.0 was $1500

 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk 4

 

 

Posted

17.7 mpg average going from Bakersfield, CA to Phoenix, AZ. About 6.5 hrs straight, but stopped a few times. Speeds were on cruise between 75-80 mph with my 6.0

 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk 4

 

 

Posted

Please. It takes like 2 seconds. But it spins to 60. The truck will be going about 20. I get no traction when I mash the fun pedal from a stop

 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk 4

 

 

Posted

Price of admission for the high output 6.0 was $1500 Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk 4

Low mileage example plus install is far from that price, I'm assuming.

 

But the engine is far from the problem with these trucks. It's all in the details.

Posted

My engine was at 35000 miles outnof a totaled escalade. Install was another $1500. I was out the door for $3030 including corvette 2nd servo

 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk 4

 

 

Posted

I miss my 800. That thing was a driver's truck. The 4 speed and 3.73s were perfect, it handled better, and was much easier to maneuver than this 2013 tank lol. If the 2000 hadn't been rusting away I'd still have it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • 2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...